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    #1

    Neep pointers on purchasing an e36 M3

    I'm getting into the market for an 96-99 e36 M3 and I'm hoping some people here can give me a crash course on things to look for in an e36 M3. I would like to know what problems to look out for when purchasing one and what good things to look for as well.



    I know some basics such as the 95 e36 M has a 3.0L engine as the 96-99 M has a 3.2L engine. I also know that the 95's have the potential for valve retainer spring failure or something like that.



    Anyways please hit me up with some useful info or links to relevant posts that might help. I'm off to search the forums now, wish me luck.



    Oh yea, links to pics of hot ass e36 M3's would also be cool since I need a new wheel and aerodynamic package for the new WIP



    THANKS!!!
    Tags: None
    #2
    check out the faq section and you will find all the info you need. good luck.

    Comment

      #3
      Yeah, there are about a billion links inside the FAQ page entitled " buying a used e36" or something.



      You can spend about an hour+ reading if you want.

      Comment

        #4
        I'm getting into the market for an 96-99 e36 M3 and I'm hoping some people here can give me a crash course on things to look for in an e36 M3. I would like to know what problems to look out for when purchasing one and what good things to look for as well.



        I know some basics such as the 95 e36 M has a 3.0L engine as the 96-99 M has a 3.2L engine. I also know that the 95's have the potential for valve retainer spring failure or something like that.



        Anyways please hit me up with some useful info or links to relevant posts that might help. I'm off to search the forums now, wish me luck.



        Oh yea, links to pics of hot ass e36 M3's would also be cool since I need a new wheel and aerodynamic package for the new WIP



        THANKS!!!Purchased a Cosmos Black '97 M3/4-door with 49,000 miles on the clock, 2 weeks ago. I looked for low mileage and documented vehicle owner history. Looked at two M3 sedans. One was a '98 Technoviolet with 39,000, and the other was the one we bought. Amazingly, the lower mileage one was in rough condition.



        During the test drive, listen for any clunking sounds in the rear suspension. Clunking is a symptom of bad rear suspension bushings. Look for oil leaks on the engine. Pre-purchase inspection is a MUST. The shop that did mine charged $135.



        At present we had the check engine light come on a couple of times. Once was for a faulty gas cap. Recently it was fuel ventilation hose. Running great, now with no issues (fingers crossed LOL).



        Next service will be a full brake job, which I plan to do myself.



        Online resource I've used thus far:



        http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/catalog/3-Series_Main.htm



        Pelican Parts is a great online resource for tech articles and great prices on OEM parts.



        http://www.bavarianautosport.com/



        Bavarian Autosport sells the Bentley 3-series manual, and offers a nice check engine light scan and reset tool. They also have factory wheels, and other goodies, you might want for your bimmer.



        Good luck in your search!

        Comment

          #5
          the search function is your friend.

          Comment

            #6
            Purchased a Cosmos Black '97 M3/4-door with 49,000 miles on the clock, 2 weeks ago. I looked for low mileage and documented vehicle owner history. Looked at two M3 sedans. One was a '98 Technoviolet with 39,000, and the other was the one we bought. Amazingly, the lower mileage one was in rough condition.



            During the test drive, listen for any clunking sounds in the rear suspension. Clunking is a symptom of bad rear suspension bushings. Look for oil leaks on the engine. Pre-purchase inspection is a MUST. The shop that did mine charged $135.



            At present we had the check engine light come on a couple of times. Once was for a faulty gas cap. Recently it was fuel ventilation hose. Running great, now with no issues (fingers crossed LOL).



            Next service will be a full brake job, which I plan to do myself.



            Online resource I've used thus far:



            http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/catalog/3-Series_Main.htm



            Pelican Parts is a great online resource for tech articles and great prices on OEM parts.



            http://www.bavarianautosport.com/



            Bavarian Autosport sells the Bentley 3-series manual, and offers a nice check engine light scan and reset tool. They also have factory wheels, and other goodies, you might want for your bimmer.



            Good luck in your search!

            Great ideas. Thanks for the tips. I've done alot of my own work on my 01 Dinan 3 including KW v.2 coilover install, sways, SSK, and brakes to name a few so I'll soon have a good project car on my hands. The next question is to keep it NA or for me to go the AA FI route. Decisions decisions.

            Comment

              #7
              The next question is to keep it NA or for me to go the AA FI route. Decisions decisions.Sorry I don't follow the acronyms? Enlighten us :hmm:

              Comment

                #8
                Sorry I don't follow the acronyms? Enlighten us :hmm:

                NA=Naturally aspirated

                AA FI= Active autowerkes forced induction, probably a turbo

                Comment

                  #9
                  Sounds like you know a little bit. However, you might want to look at other avenues for Forced INduction as AA charges an arm and a leg.



                  www.sharked.com has the twin screw supercharger coming out very soon which makes more power than aa's stage one kit and similar power to aa's stage 2 turbo kit (363rwhp with schrick cams) and it should come in under $8k.



                  As well there are other custom setups being produced www.techniquetuning.com (348rwhp on 8psi) and www.rallyroad.net (close to 400rwhp on ~10psi) both will be far less than the $12k that aa wants.



                  as to hot pictures of m3s I think mine is looking pretty good:

                  http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNDkxMTE5NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg



                  http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNDkxMTE3NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg



                  -Richard

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Why'd you rule out the '95 ///M in your search.



                    You should ask the guru's on the specific diferences between OBDI and OBDII. I have been told that OBDI is easier to mod and has a little better potential for output.



                    I may get flamed if I am wrong, but, that is what I understand.



                    Good luck,

                    Comment

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