Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Buy euro engine???

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    So the stock U.S. exhaust will work with the Euro 3.0 or 3.2 engine?, and pass emissions?



    No, you will need to use the euro exhaust, its far better.

    Comment


      #17
      No, you will need to use the euro exhaust, its far better.



      And where might I find that? Also any idea where I can find the parts I need to swap to the euro engine?

      Comment


        #18
        You should really just put a cam kit into your car (chip, cams, intake, injectors, hfm) and then do full exhaust. It'll be MUCH cheaper w/, according to numbers, similar gains (I've not driven a euro so I don't know first hand) to the 3.0 Euro engine. In all it'd be around 3.5 grand so you'd be able to afford other more important stuff such as suspension and brakes.



        From what I've read, a cam kit will cost around 3k itself, then full exhaust (headers, cat, cat-back, muffler) would be another 1.5k at least, and it still wouldn't make 330hp. I could be wrong, but thats my understanding.

        Comment


          #19
          From what I've read, a cam kit will cost around 3k itself, then full exhaust (headers, cat, cat-back, muffler) would be another 1.5k at least, and it still wouldn't make 330hp. I could be wrong, but thats my understanding.

          Don't forget the reason it makes 330HP is because it spins to 8500 RPM. In real world day to day driving it won't feel 90 HP more powerfull....only at full chat on the way to redline. There is a shop in Markham Ontario area code (905) called Bavarian that were installing a euro motor in a M3/4 last winter. They might be a good source to ask some questions.

          Comment


            #20
            From what I've read, a cam kit will cost around 3k itself, then full exhaust (headers, cat, cat-back, muffler) would be another 1.5k at least, and it still wouldn't make 330hp. I could be wrong, but thats my understanding.



            the cam kit from Bimmerworld is $2,299 w/ a $200 dollar trade-in value on your stock cams. I don't even think you'd need to put headers on, just replace the cats w/ a "track pipe" and then muffler. You'd be around 290 or so @ the crank which is the same as the 3.0 euro. You're numbers are from the 3.2 euro, that'll be even more difficult to put into your '95 US car and more expensive. If you want that kind of power for less money, get a turbo...

            Comment


              #21
              Trust me-- It's surprisingly easy to find 95 M3s in good condition under 15k now-a-days.



              If you look harder/longer you can get perfect condition for under $15K.

              Comment


                #22
                edgy...



                What the...



                Sorry to be the boring voice of reason in this thread, but if $15K is your budget, concentrate on finding a M3 in decent shape with under 100K miles on it, before thinking about mods that will run you many thousands $$ more... just a thought.



                I am with him. What the...







                The emissions will be the least of your problems. Getting the Euro engine to work properly, to get all the gremlins out will most likely run you about 16k EASY. Unless you plan on doing all the labor, so 15k + min another 15k (and probably doing another 2k of routine stuff on a high mileage car). At this point you are approaching used e46 m3 territory.



                Seriously, you are not the first or last person to come up with the idea. The information is easily available on google. Search all the forums roadfly, bimmerforums, here, and umpteen different shops who have done it. If you have time to ask about emissions 5 times, you have time to search google.



                Is searching on your own really that hard? :???:



                And have you any clue how much your INS will be. I doubt any INS company will even touch you with a 10 foot pole if you put an euro engine in your car. Especially, being under 25.

                Comment


                  #23
                  I am with him. What the...



                  The emissions will be the least of your problems. Getting the Euro engine to work properly, to get all the gremlins out will most likely run you about 16k EASY. Unless you plan on doing all the labor, so 15k + min another 15k (and probably doing another 2k of routine stuff on a high mileage car). At this point you are approaching used e46 m3 territory.



                  Seriously, you are not the first or last person to come up with the idea. The information is easily available on google. Search all the forums roadfly, bimmerforums, here, and umpteen different shops who have done it. If you have time to ask about emissions 5 times, you have time to search google.



                  Is searching on your own really that hard? :???:



                  And have you any clue how much your INS will be. I doubt any INS company will even touch you with a 10 foot pole if you put an euro engine in your car. Especially, being under 25.



                  Is helping someone out really that hard?



                  FYI I have done my searching, on Google, Yahoo and Altavista. The reason forums exist is to share info about a common interest, not to teach people how to search.



                  However Bimmerforums liked to crash my computer, so I never got to check them (which is why you guys are 'burdened' with my inquiries)--I'm on a different comp now and I definetly will.



                  And thats a very good point about insurance--I never thought of the effects a euro engine would have on my already steep premium.



                  Alright so maybe someday I'll pick up a euro M3 or get around to doing the engine swap, but right now it sounds way to expensive and troublesome to really be worth it, especially when I can just mod a US M3 to go faster than the euro.



                  Thanks alot for all the incredibly insightful help, those of you who did. Its worth mentioning that the information I got from the members here was MUCH more extensive and thorough than anything else I have found yet. On that note, I'll finish up my research at Bimmerforums and wherever else, and lay my dream to rest.



                  Thanks again!!!

                  Comment


                    #24
                    ...especially when I can just mod a US M3 to go faster than the euro...



                    Mod for mod, even dollar for dollar, there's not a chance. Don't believe all you read...

                    Comment


                      #25
                      LEt's back up another step. You're not 18 yet? I think that a US spec M3 will be PLENTY of car for you to handle and that repairs or maintenance like a new clutch etc. will keep your mod money down to a min.



                      I'd just get an M3 and be happy with the power it has.



                      If after a while you really think it needs more, then start looking into it.



                      Honestly, there are a lot of days where I don't use 50% of this car's potential. I just enjoy the torque we get down low and drive.



                      That Euro engine is sweet and all, but it won't really be noticeable unless you're really getting on the car or at a higher speed track.



                      There's more than enough car to get a young driver into trouble. (heck, I'm 4 years older than you and it gets me into trouble)

                      Comment


                        #26
                        If i were you i would save some money and just rebuild the motor thats in the car with some cams high comp pistons ltw rods and a bunch of bolt ons and you will be happy i bet and will save tons of money. ANother thing is you will pretty much a new motor that will last you a long time not a euro spec that mostly has 50k miles on it for the price mentioned above. As for the 6 spd tranny all the stuff needed to do it m5 clutch and uuc flywheel, uuc ssk has cost me 7gs...(But its new and has factory warranty on it) Labor is what is gonna cost you a lot tho...By the way don't forget that when you add power you should prob look into redoing the brakes.



                        John-

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Thanks alot for all the incredibly insightful help, those of you who did. Its worth mentioning that the information I got from the members here was MUCH more extensive and thorough than anything else I have found yet. On that note, I'll finish up my research at Bimmerforums and wherever else, and lay my dream to rest.



                          Now you're talking. :thumbsup: As Astan said, get the M3, enjoy it for a while and see where your life goes. Then if you really still want and have thousands to burn, get a cam kit or supercharger. You'll be putting out as much or more HP as a 3.0 Euro.





                          Honestly, there are a lot of days where I don't use 50% of this car's potential. I just enjoy the torque we get down low and drive.



                          More sense from our moderator. Recently I was kicking around a cam kit, but most days I don't approach the capacity of the car either. So can't justify so much $$ that I'll never recoup if/when I sell. Going to do Conforti software, with that, CAI and exhaust I'll prob. be at 260 crank (?). But HP of course isn't the main reason for buying an M3 anyway -- it's the balance of power and handling that make these cars so beautiful. Oh, and that look is timeless too!



                          Finally, bump for another NoVA guy!

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Yeah, these cars are really quick as it is...they're not honda accords, they're performance sedans and sure as hell drive like one. Good luck in your search...

                            Comment


                              #29
                              LEt's back up another step. You're not 18 yet? I think that a US spec M3 will be PLENTY of car for you to handle and that repairs or maintenance like a new clutch etc. will keep your mod money down to a min.



                              I'd just get an M3 and be happy with the power it has.



                              If after a while you really think it needs more, then start looking into it.



                              Honestly, there are a lot of days where I don't use 50% of this car's potential. I just enjoy the torque we get down low and drive.



                              That Euro engine is sweet and all, but it won't really be noticeable unless you're really getting on the car or at a higher speed track.



                              There's more than enough car to get a young driver into trouble. (heck, I'm 4 years older than you and it gets me into trouble)



                              Yeah, these cars are really quick as it is...they're not honda accords, they're performance sedans and sure as hell drive like one. Good luck in your search...



                              For one, my current car (the one I'm selling to get the M3) is a 2001 Nissan Maxima SE (thats fifth generation). I've utterly destroyed my fair share of tuned accords. I haven't done much to the Max, but what I have done puts the hp numbers about 10 less than a stock M3, and yes I'm wanting.



                              For two, I do plan on racing the M3 regularly, hence the interest in power--it will be a long process that will take a few years, but I plan on seriously modifying my M3 to put some pretty numbers up on the board (and no, not just drag racing). Im worried about the roll cage though...is there one that doesn't totally wreck your interior? I hope so...



                              As for getting into trouble, I try to stay away from it as much as I can, however somehow I don't think it would matter what car I owned... :thumbsup:



                              So yes the euro engine idea is on hold for now, I'm just going to go with the US M3 and work from there.



                              Thanks again!

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Aside from the FWD thing, I like maximas. They're nice cars. The power difference between this and your maxima will be there, but it won't be crazy. The only reason it might feel that way is because this car is louder and cuddles you less.



                                If you're going to race it, I bet that much faster times can be had with 1) driver's school and 2) suspension mods. That's the cheaper way to get faster times IMO.



                                Most people on this forum aren't anywhere near the abillity level of this car on a track anyway. I'm certainly not.



                                Remember that any weird mods like cams and stuff are going to hurt resale value too. No one really cares about CAI's and stuff though.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X