Ok, this is a follow-up to my thread several months ago. New thread though so folks can start at the top. My 98 M3/4 is a virgin no longer. Here's what's been done so far:
Repairs:
Brake light circuit, brake sensor, power steering pump and hoses, new belts, passenger airbag sensor and mat, aluminum theromstat housing and new thermostat, all fluids changed. FWIW, the water pump did not have to be replaced on my 9/97 build. Dealer said it was either already done or had the proper one to begin with
Pimp mods:
Euro 3 spoke wheel, illuminated shift knob - oem, clear front and side lights
Suspension:
Ground Control race/track school with Koni double adjustables, uuc sway barbarian front, oem sway rear (got both uuc's but rear end was too stiff using uuc (too much oversteer) so went back to stock - now have rear uuc to sell), ground control front sway drop links, polyurethene rtabs, bimmerworld eyeball arms to replace worn front control arm bushings
Drivetrain:
JB Racing LTFW, Oem sachs heavy duty clutch, uuc tranny mount enforcers, rogue octane SSK, CDV delete, new Guibo
Misc: Stainless brake lines, stainless clutch line, new hardlines for brakes and clutch, Super Blue
Right now, the car drives awesome. Suspension is rock solid with no roll or pitching forward. Beautiful. Flywheel/CDV delete really make the car feel a lot faster and the ssk with tme's feels terrific.
Next up:
Brakes: Euro motorsport Oem rotors, Oem sport rear pads, Pagid RA-14 front pads
Tires: Second set of racing tires and wheels, either Khumos or Toyos
Now the good stuff, POWER:
In order of what's going to be done (after brakes),
AA 3.5" CAI
Stromung exhaust
Splitsec piggyback chip/AFR calibrator
ASC delete
BBTB
3.5" HFM
M50 manifold
Shrick cams
Euro long tube headers
Anything else somebody thinks up
Right now the car feels very strong so I can't wait to get the power mods in. Going to put in some track time first though.
Any thoughts as to how I can improve the set up?
Cheers,
Doug
Repairs:
Brake light circuit, brake sensor, power steering pump and hoses, new belts, passenger airbag sensor and mat, aluminum theromstat housing and new thermostat, all fluids changed. FWIW, the water pump did not have to be replaced on my 9/97 build. Dealer said it was either already done or had the proper one to begin with
Pimp mods:
Euro 3 spoke wheel, illuminated shift knob - oem, clear front and side lights
Suspension:
Ground Control race/track school with Koni double adjustables, uuc sway barbarian front, oem sway rear (got both uuc's but rear end was too stiff using uuc (too much oversteer) so went back to stock - now have rear uuc to sell), ground control front sway drop links, polyurethene rtabs, bimmerworld eyeball arms to replace worn front control arm bushings
Drivetrain:
JB Racing LTFW, Oem sachs heavy duty clutch, uuc tranny mount enforcers, rogue octane SSK, CDV delete, new Guibo
Misc: Stainless brake lines, stainless clutch line, new hardlines for brakes and clutch, Super Blue
Right now, the car drives awesome. Suspension is rock solid with no roll or pitching forward. Beautiful. Flywheel/CDV delete really make the car feel a lot faster and the ssk with tme's feels terrific.
Next up:
Brakes: Euro motorsport Oem rotors, Oem sport rear pads, Pagid RA-14 front pads
Tires: Second set of racing tires and wheels, either Khumos or Toyos
Now the good stuff, POWER:
In order of what's going to be done (after brakes),
AA 3.5" CAI
Stromung exhaust
Splitsec piggyback chip/AFR calibrator
ASC delete
BBTB
3.5" HFM
M50 manifold
Shrick cams
Euro long tube headers
Anything else somebody thinks up
Right now the car feels very strong so I can't wait to get the power mods in. Going to put in some track time first though.
Any thoughts as to how I can improve the set up?
Cheers,
Doug
Comment