Front wheels sit forward in the wheel well...

[m3f_Som]

I've had this issue for a couple years now. I noticed it a few months after I got the Treehouse Racing eyeball control arm bushings installed (again, a few years ago).



My front wheels sit significantly forward in the wheel well. I can get about all 4 of my fingers side-by-side behind the wheel to the fender, but I can't even get a finger in front between the wheel and the bumper.



I've got H&R coilovers in there, so the tires are *really* close to the fender. So much so that the tires rub during either big bumps or high speed (120+?) sweepers.



I didn't have time to do the install on this particular part, and looking under the car it appears the control arm wasn't pushed all the way into the bushing... but it's only got maybe a little less than a centimeter to go.



I have adjustable camber plates, but I don't think they should change the location of the wheel relative to the well.



I'll get some photos in later, but if anyone's ever dealt with this or has any clues/suggestions, I'd like to hear 'em...



- Som

[m3f_fiveightan_7e37700daf]

So, the caster is off? Do you have any pics?

[m3f_ANT'S M3_9315bd53d5]

yea the caster is off


Either the bushings are wrong or the control arm....... Idunno....... Pics please of under the car and upper strut/camber plates

[m3f_Som]

So, I didn't get a photo of the camber plate position because the strut bar mount is on it and I'm about to head out. I snapped these just now real quick.



I'm not sure how the caster affects this though. If you move the top of the shock forward/backward, would that change the actual location of the wheel? It seems the control arm dictates where the wheel lands front to back... then changing the caster is a matter of moving the point on the opposite end of the shock. Am I wrong thinking about it like this? Has anyone here actually set their caster *too* far negative and had this situation arise?



Looking at the photo, the control arm isn't as "pulled out" of the bushing as I remember... it looks like it has maybe another 5mm to go... which would hardly make up the difference in spacing.



http://www.somnaderi.com/misc/wheel1.jpg

http://www.somnaderi.com/misc/wheel2.jpg

http://www.somnaderi.com/misc/wheel3.jpg



- Som

[m3f_asaid87_1c2bc6986a]

the control arm look almost identical to mine (i just did a replacement and i memorized almost exactly how it looks :lolhit but the bushing is a lime green and doesnt really look much like the factory bushing...im gonna go with that bushing does not go back as far as the factory bushing (back towards the rear of the car i mean) and its holding the control arm farther up front...

[m3f_PurduinaM3_5769f9ad51]

You have a 96-99 correct? The Treehouse racing Eyeball bushings are meant for 95 suspension geometry, and when used on 96-99, it creates excessive caster. On the 95 suspension, the LCA bushings were offset. On the 96-99s, the bushings were centered, but the arms were offset. You have offset arms and offset bushings, creating excessive caster and pushing your wheel too far forward. I would suggest either buying 95 LCA's or new LCAB's that are centered.

[m3f_Som]

Hmmmmmmm... interesting. That would definitely make sense and explain things...



So, are you saying the 95 had different ("offset") control arms than the 96-99? I've never seen a site distinguish between the two.



I'll have to call up Treehouse... their site doesn't differentiate between different model years, either.



Thanks for the help!



- Som

[m3f_Som]

Just called Treehouse... they only make 1 type for the E30/E36.



The added caster is intentional. The guy I spoke with said that if I adjust the caster forward on my caster plates that it'll move the wheel back (which is what I imagine you guys up top were getting at).



I think I realized the answer to my own question about why other people weren't having scraping issues. I have spacers under the Kosei's because the tires were rubbing the strut. So the scraping is happening because my wheels are 10mm out further than typical.



Looks like I've got some work to do.



- Som

[m3f_Eric BMW_da165d4425]

How do you just let this slide for a couple of years??? That would kill me.

[m3f_Blutarsky_9fc23e08a5]

i thought the control arms were the same and only the bushings were different...so if a 96-99 car was later fitted w/ the stronger '95 offset bushings, a realignment would be necessary (or visa-versa)

[m3f_SG_M3_d1201712b5]

i thought the control arms were the same and only the bushings were different...so if a 96-99 car was later fitted w/ the stronger '95 offset bushings, a realignment would be necessary (or visa-versa)



caster isn't adjustable in stock form. You usually push caster all the way positive, so you gain a little more dynamic camber gain with travel.



It would be better to use some center poly bushings with 96+ arms, instead of the offset ones.

[m3f_Blutarsky_9fc23e08a5]

great info, thx Scott. I'm doing the LCAB's on my '97 328i beater next weekend and was considering the '95 ones. thx for clarifying :beer:

[m3f_Som]

How do you just let this slide for a couple of years??? That would kill me.



Meh... the looks never bothered me. And the wheels didn't touch the fender until I got the Kosei's on there. Car handles like a champ on the track.



If it wasn't broke, I wasn't going to "fix" it.



I'm only interested in fixing it now because the wheel/tire combo is scraping. The front rims are 8.5s (were stock M-Contour 7.5s before) with a 40mm offset. So, I *could* try to buy a pair of 7.5" wheels to replace the front with... but I think I'd rather have the wheel back to normal instead. Plus, I didn't see those wheels with 7.5" width on TireRack when I bought'em.



- Som

[m3f_PurduinaM3_5769f9ad51]

Instead of doing all these other changes to work around them, why not put the correct part on the car? Either sell the Treehouse and buy UUC or PF (you would actually make money by going with the PF's), or just buy new 95 non offset arms (probably wouldn't hurt to change them out anyway if you never have because of the ball joints).


I don't care what Treehouse says, the bushings for the 95's and for the 96-99's were DIFFERENT. There is a reason they were different, and its impossible to make a bushing that works on both without adding ridiculous amounts of caster. Adjusting it at the top isn't the best idea ever IMO.


The treehouse bushings were made only for 95's, and UUC's were made only for 96+. The only way to use them on the other car is by also swapping the correct control arms also.

[m3f_fiveightan_7e37700daf]

You have a 96-99 correct? The Treehouse racing Eyeball bushings are meant for 95 suspension geometry, and when used on 96-99, it creates excessive caster. On the 95 suspension, the LCA bushings were offset. On the 96-99s, the bushings were centered, but the arms were offset. You have offset arms and offset bushings, creating excessive caster and pushing your wheel too far forward. I would suggest either buying 95 LCA's or new LCAB's that are centered.

You're an ok guy Bobtropolis


+1 for this post. :thumbsup2: