$25.75 for ONE BOLT?!

[m3f_///A3_57334784aa]

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=11-62-1-427-586-M9&catalog_description=Hex%20Bolt%20M%31%30x%34%30 %20 for%20Exhaust%20Manifold%2C%20M%33%20%33%2E%32%20% 28%31%39%39%36%2D%39%38%29%20Sedan%20%20with%20S%3 5%32%20Engine%20%28E%33%36%29%2C%20%3Cbr%3E%26nbsp %3B%26nbsp%3B%20%3Cspan%20style%3D%22font%2Dweight %3A%34%30%30%3Bcolor%3A%23%30%30%30%30%38%30%22%3E



Seriously? Does anyone have these cheaper? I googled the part number, but only came up with pelican. I believe in getting expensive factory bolts for load bearing/suspension applications, but really? Over $150 just to replace six bolts that do nothing more than hold the cat pipe to the exhaust manifold is ridiculous.

[m3f_Richardspe_ff9fba485e]

Are you sure that application uses a bolt and not a stud? What year is the car?



I'll go out and look at the old 95 mainfolds I've got in the garage.



Yes. the 95 mainfolds have screw in studs, and the 96+ has press in studs. That's not to say you couldn't use a bolt...

[m3f_///A3_57334784aa]

Well, I just used the part number from realoem and that's what pelican gave me. It's pretty hard to tell from under the car if it's press in or screw in, but I was pretty sure it was press in.



Either way, is there a solution that isn't so expensive? I broke off one of these, and I'd like to replace them all, but not for $155!

[m3f_Richardspe_ff9fba485e]

Well, you pretty much have to remove the manifold to get the broken bit out.



The thread size is 10x40mm, but I wouldn't use any old hardware bolt, it will rust like you wouldn't believe. See if you can find a stainless bolt. or maybe visit a dealer and ask the service manager if you could talk to a master tech and see what they would do.

[m3f_fiveightan_7e37700daf]

With the midpipe out of the way you can get a drill at those to drill it out. I'd use a die grinder or a dremel to sheer it flush with the flange, use one of those Dremel tool burred tips to start a pilot hole so the drill bit doesn't slip, and drill it out.


Go slow and spray some soapy water on it constantly as a lubricant to keep the heat down and protect the bit. Those studs are tough stuff.


I'd use a stainless bolt to replace it, brass, or something else suitable for high heat that won't corrode. Use some high temp copper anti-sieze on it as well.


I had an issue like this on my Subaru when I rounded off one of the bolts on the turbo. They're special application because of the heat they see and I was hard pressed to find anything at a local hardware store I was comfortable using. It would probably be a good idea to find a specialty fastener store like The Nutty Company or Fastenall to see what they recommend.

[m3f_///A3_57334784aa]

Thanks for the replies already guys.



Are you sure that application uses a bolt and not a stud?



I guess I don't know the difference between a bolt and a stud. Is it the flat section that has to be pressed in that makes it a stud? I dunno, but pelican calls it a bolt.



or maybe visit a dealer and ask the service manager if you could talk to a master tech and see what they would do.



I can just imagine that one.

'Yeah, I have just the thing for you.'

steps inside

Comes out a minute later, hands me a bag and says 'That'll be 172.81'

Cause you have to replace the lock nuts too.



With the midpipe out of the way you can get a drill at those to drill it out. I'd use a die grinder or a dremel to sheer it flush with the flange, use one of those Dremel tool burred tips to start a pilot hole so the drill bit doesn't slip, and drill it out.



Go slow and spray some soapy water on it constantly as a lubricant to keep the heat down and protect the bit. Those studs are tough stuff.





So I noticed that you guys didn't say 'get the right bolt and damn the expense!'. Almost twenty six dollars, for one bolt, is unbelievable, right? :soapbox:



I was definitely planning on drilling it out, but I'm not quite confident in my cutoff wheeling skills to dremel it flush. Plus, that just sounds like a shower of sparks in my eyes and face.



Or what about a c clamp? I feel like there should be a way to use one of those.



I was really hoping to get her back on the ground before the end of August, but it's looking more like she's going right back into winter storage with less than 200 miles on the year.(Which is ok by me. Let the years catch up with the miles a little bit.) I've had several days of quality garage time derailed this month, each time by a single bolt. I think I better invest in brand new nuts, bolts, and washers for everything that I'm taking apart and replacing. Oh, and I'm getting a diff bolt too. That must be done as well.

[m3f_///A3_57334784aa]

Actually, dealer wants $27 each.

[m3f_pbonsalb_ba5494e5cb]

It is probably a once in 15 year kind of repair, so you could justify expensive OEM parts on that basis. Were it me, I would try to be creative. If there is room for a bolt head on the other side (and to access it with a wrench to hold it while you tighten it), drill it out and use a bolt. There are universal repair clamps at auto parts stores for exactly this sort of thing, but sometimes there is not clearance to fit them for a particular application.



Since you have PN, check prices at autohausaz.com, rmeuropean.com, pelicanparts.com and any other board favorites you know of.

[m3f_fiveightan_7e37700daf]

Thanks for the replies already guys.


I guess I don't know the difference between a bolt and a stud. Is it the flat section that has to be pressed in that makes it a stud? I dunno, but pelican calls it a bolt.


I can just imagine that one.

'Yeah, I have just the thing for you.'

steps inside

Comes out a minute later, hands me a bag and says 'That'll be 172.81'

Cause you have to replace the lock nuts too.


So I noticed that you guys didn't say 'get the right bolt and damn the expense!'. Almost twenty six dollars, for one bolt, is unbelievable, right? :soapbox:


I was definitely planning on drilling it out, but I'm not quite confident in my cutoff wheeling skills to dremel it flush. Plus, that just sounds like a shower of sparks in my eyes and face.


Or what about a c clamp? I feel like there should be a way to use one of those.


I was really hoping to get her back on the ground before the end of August, but it's looking more like she's going right back into winter storage with less than 200 miles on the year.(Which is ok by me. Let the years catch up with the miles a little bit.) I've had several days of quality garage time derailed this month, each time by a single bolt. I think I better invest in brand new nuts, bolts, and washers for everything that I'm taking apart and replacing. Oh, and I'm getting a diff bolt too. That must be done as well.

If it were a single stud you were replacing, i'd say just spend the money. Since you're replacing all 6, I would try and find the closest thing to it from a specialty fastener supplier like the two I mentioned above.


A c-clamp won't even come close to pressing the stud out. When I dropped my exhaust for the first time, I had to cut the nuts off my studs with a die grinder. They were positively fused on. I nicked the threads on a few of the studs with the die grinder and tried quite a few things to get them out without resorting to drilling. C-clamps, pullers, heat, etc. They're in there good. Drilling is the easiest way, unless you have a tool specifically designed for pressing these things out. I do not.


Cutting it down with a grinder lessens your chances of the bit drifting and you contacting the flange. It'll also leave you with less metal to drill through. They're pretty serious studs. Wear safety glasses. Angle the wheel and position yourself so sparks aren't flying at you, but away from you. Wear long sleeves, you'll live through it.


Re: bolt vs stud. bolts are loose in their position and are only held in place by the tension that the nut yields when they're torqued. They have some means of bracing them in place on one side, while you torque the fastener on the other side.


Studs are threaded fasteners that are either "permanently" pressed into place for the application, or are threaded "permanently" into place (ie the studs that protrude from the cylinder head for mounting the water pump).


I'm not sure if they're all the same, but all the M3's i've seen have *studs* pressed into the flanges at the end of the headers. They have no hex head on the end to put a wrench on. The fact that they're pressed into the holes in the flange is what holds them in place.

[m3f_adema24_dccc53569a]

i sheared all 6 studs. took it to an exhaust shop and they torched them out.

[m3f_bl79_b6d0049366]

As far as replacing them, try mcmaster.com they might have what you are looking for.

[m3f_TomS2_a2fd8cbb3e]

i sheared all 6 studs. took it to an exhaust shop and they torched them out.



that's what i would do. cheaper and easier to let a shop pull them out, and i would bet they have generic parts that will work for a buck a piece.

[m3f_OahuMPower_17503f01cd]

1) take car to exhaust shop and have them oxy-acetylene torch those mothers out. DRILLING THEM DOESNT WORK


2) get some M10x1.5 SS 35mm bolts, with flanges, and flanged nuts as well. Use those. Ace hardware has tons, use anti seize when reinstalling, and you are good to go for $25-$30 in quality hardware


this is what I have done, works great, and I'm always removing my exhaust all the time, and its perfecto

[m3f_WRXEATR_c6f1d80be6]

18$ @ Tischer



2.50 at my local hardware store. m10x40x1.0

[m3f_OahuMPower_17503f01cd]

after having dealt with studs and bolts in the exhaust manifold location, I will take BOLTS every day of the week.


studs suck....