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Rear Suspension Overhaul (Part Duece)

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    Rear Suspension Overhaul (Part Duece)

    Since it’s been pretty slow around here I decided to start a thread for my most recent project; another rear suspension overhaul. Less than two years ago Calvin and I refreshed the rear suspension in a single night by dropping everything down, pressing in all new bushings/balljoints, and then reassembling it. However, since we were restricted by time, I wasn’t able to fully finish everything I wanted to, and a few things were left out. Not to mention the addition of some aftermarket parts that I later found caused some new issues that had to be addressed, such as the Powerflex subframe bushings which need beefier washers and the SPC LCA’s that need spacers to keep the bushings centered. With the acquisition of a new diff, and having the car down for the winter, I figured this was the perfect time to finally finish what I started.


    The purpose of this thread is not a DIY or anything, but rather a documentary of my progress as I undertake this project. If anyone has any questions on anything about this or needs part numbers, feel free to post up in this thread and I’ll gladly share any info as I’ve got a good amount of research into all the necessary part numbers etc etc. Here’s what I’m going to be doing this time around:


    Weld in AKG Sway Bar Reinforcements

    Box in diff mounts on the subframe

    Install new repacked *** wheel bearings courtesy of Bear Motorsports

    Install rebuilt half shafts courtesy of Bear Motorsports

    Install 3.38 diff with brand new clutch packs

    Weld Mike Radowski Diff Support to the new 3.38 diff

    Install AKG front diff bushing

    Replace steel SPC lower control arms with SPC Aluminum LCA’s

    Replace Powerflex subframe washers with beefier McMaster Components and E92 Bolts

    Replace all bushings and balljoints again, as well as all new hardware (including new dust shields, ebrake cables, endlinks, bolts, etc)

    Media blast all suspension components and powdercoat


    Joe came over last weekend and helped me get started. We pulled the entire rear suspension as a single unit and from having the wheels on the car to having the rear suspension disconnected and on the ground, it took us less than an hour and a half. This method in my opinion is much easier than trying to unbolt everything while it’s still on the car, and disassembly was a breeze with a lot more room to work with. Since Joe had just tackled this job on his car, he was a huge help in directing on what gets disconnected first and showing some tricks to the trade. All in all, it was not as difficult as I was expecting. Also, for what it’s worth, the axle nut in the rear is a 36mm, not a 30mm, as it took us two separate trips to Sears to figure this out :facepalm: :rofl3: Here are some pictures of the current progress:


    http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu76/bdbello/P1090039.jpg


    http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu76/bdbello/P1090041.jpg


    http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu76/bdbello/P1090045.jpg


    http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu76/bdbello/P1090046.jpg


    And my newest editions to the garage, which made this job a whole lot easier!


    http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu76/bdbello/P1090047.jpg


    Calvin currently has my half shafts, wheel bearings, diff, and some other parts, and is rebuilding them all for me. Joe has my subframe and put it through the tumbler at his body shop. Ant has my RTA's, upper control arms, and all other parts that will be stripped down and powdercoated. I just wanted to give a big thanks to these guys, who without this project wouldn't be feasible. I'll try to update this thread with pictures after any progress is made! :rulaiz:

    #2
    :thumbsup2: rockin'...gonna have a round 2 rear overhaul myself as i hit most of the majors but still want to get in there and do some reinforcing. perhaps when i get a new diff.

    Comment


      #3
      Bobby/Joe I am really interested to understand how did you guys take out the entire rear suspension (with associated parts) as a single unit?



      Great work btw!:thumbsup2:

      I will do this someday.

      Comment


        #4
        Good work Bobby.

        I decided to bite the bullet and have my Mike R brace welded on earlier this week. I have no plans for changing the diff right now and worst case I just have to buy another one.



        Bobby/Joe I am really interested to understand how did you guys take out the entire rear suspension (with associated parts) as a single unit?



        Great work btw!:thumbsup2:

        I will do this someday.

        Its not difficult actually. Disconnect: shocks, drive shaft, RTAs, E-brake cable, brake lines, subframe to body, speed sensor (and I may be forgetting a few things) and thats basically it.

        You need to have the exhaust and rear swaybar out though but that would be obvious once you got going.

        Comment


          #5
          rear swaybar doesnt have to be out...





          1) rear brake cables/holders

          2) e-brake cables

          3) speed sensor

          4) ABS sensors

          5) disconnect drive shaft

          6) disconnect rear trailing arm consoles

          7) disconnect rear shocks

          8) remove subframe bolts/nuts



          Bobby, not a problem man. Hopefully knocking everything out today. I have to get some other projects done, and want to get your stuff just knocked out. :rulaiz:



          Glad I could help

          Comment


            #6
            rear swaybar doesnt have to be out...







            Good point, I guess I was thinking of diff removal for a second

            Comment


              #7
              Good point, I guess I was thinking of diff removal for a second



              dont have to remove the diff either if you want to drop the entire subframe together.

              Comment


                #8
                rear swaybar doesnt have to be out...





                1) rear brake cables/holders

                2) e-brake cables

                3) speed sensor

                4) ABS sensors

                5) disconnect drive shaft

                6) disconnect rear trailing arm consoles

                7) disconnect rear shocks

                8) remove subframe bolts/nuts



                Bobby, not a problem man. Hopefully knocking everything out today. I have to get some other projects done, and want to get your stuff just knocked out. :rulaiz:



                Glad I could help





                rear brake lines get no love, eh?

                Comment


                  #9
                  dont have to remove the diff either if you want to drop the entire subframe together.



                  You missunderstand. I meant that the swaybar should be removed for diff removal. It may not be absolutely necessary but it maked getting to the rear bolts a lot easier.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    ahh.. gotcha :thumbsup2:



                    yes Rich, rear brake lines :shifty:

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Rear sway bar can stay attached, but yeah, its really quite simple either way. I actually disconnected the LCA's from the ball joints on the RTA and slid the calipers still attached through there, so that I never had to undo the brake lines and I won't have to bleed them. I'll probably end up doing a brake overhaul in the spring with 4 new calipers freshly powdercoated and SS brake lines, but for now I didn't want anothing thing to have to mess with; those are easily removable at a later date.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I did the whole "drop it as one unit" thing a couple months ago to install AKG subframe bushings. I have a 6 bolt driveshaft since I have a 6/94 build car. It was impossible for me and a helper to drop the entire suspension unit without removing the diff, as the driveshaft studs would get bound up in the diff holes, and there wasn't enough wiggle room to make it happen.



                        YMMV. Just thought I'd throw this out there since I haven't seen it written down on any forums but it DEFINITELY can't be done as easily on a 6 bolt d/s as on a 4 bolt d/s.



                        Matt

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I actually disconnected the LCA's from the ball joints on the RTA and slid the calipers still attached through there, so that I never had to undo the brake lines and I won't have to bleed them.



                          It is possible to snake the caliper and line between the LCA and axle shaft if you try a few combinations. This may save time as well.



                          Matt

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Looks like a good winter project to undertake. Just out of curiousity how many miles are on your car? Is this the sort of work that should be done based on age or mileage?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Man that sucks you had to tear all this out again so soon. Good luck this time!

                              Comment

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