Those were different times. Lot's changed since the 60s.
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Transmission problem - Help
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Back in 1965! My friend was driving his dad's 1965 Chev Impala 283 with a powerglide. He wanted to show off. I still cringe when I write this...He reved the engine up A LOT then dropped it into gear. Just smoked the back tires. Then once he got some speed up, he threw it into neutral again and let the engine rev further then back into gear for more smoking tires. He did this a number of times. His dad drove that car for years after and never had a trans problem.
Also from the comments from my trans expert, the BMW ZF spec trans
isn't very heavy duty so I don't plan to do any neutral drops with the M3.
Actually my son will be getting it and driving across the country to live in the fall. He better not do neutral drops either.
whatlol
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Anyone dumb enough to do a neutral drop gets what they deserve.
FWIW The powerglide trans was well known as one of the toughest transmissions ever made and were coveted by drag racers through the 70's and 80's for this reason. Ours is a cream puff by comparison and would likely eat itself if subjected to a neutral drop. :twocents:
arrot:
arrot:
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Update:
We bought a used transmission and installed it. When you shift gears you can actually hear it shifting which couldn't be heard before.
But the wheels still spin slow while in the air and can be stopped with very little force. The weird thing is, when it is shifted into reverse, the wheels spin forward. They also spin forward as they should in drive.
If anyone knows of anything please let me know. The car has been sitting in the driveway for months and I hope to get it back on the road.
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I think you have a MLP issue. (main line pressure) MLP is the static operating pressure in a trans that all of the shift solenoids work off of.
The fact that it doesn't work in any gear screams MLP because MLP is the only feasible thing here that would affect all shift solenoids. Something is preventing pressure buildup in the transmission.
Pull your valve body and thoroughly blow it out/clean it with brake cleaner. Re-assemble and see if its fixed.
Did you old fluid look/smell burned?
Flush out the chassis side of your ATF lines. Since you still have an issue with another trans, it mostly rules out a tranny issue. Perhaps you have a blockage in your atf cooler or somewhere else in the system on the chassis side. If you have a flow blockage, it will make a restriction and prevent the system from reaching spec MLP. Get some carb cleaner and an air compressor and blow out your entire chassis side ATF lines and report back. :thumbsup:
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The oil doesn't smell burned. And I added new fluid through the lines but there weren't any blockages.
I've been told by someone that the computer might need to be reset or calibrated by the dealer since I have disconnected it in the process and have put in a new transmission. Do you think this could be causing the problem?
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Update:
I had a friend that works at the dealer come over with his computer to pull codes and he said that the speedometer in the car isn't reading anything for some reason. We checked the sensor but it looks fine.
He also said he was unable to pull a code dealing the transmission because it seemed like it was disconnected. When it's actually connected fine.
On the side note, I've done some research and apparently the reason why the car won't go into Reverse or Neutral is because it's in some kind of "Limp Home Mode". I'm not exactly positive but it's a possibility. But the other problem is that the wheels don't have the power they should. They can still be stopped with a light amount of force.
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