Vapor Trails: code FD, evap valve stuck closed

[m3f_bigo1087]

Any results to this issues guys.





My 1999 e36 M3 also started doing this last Fall. ALSO at around 150,000 Miles as well. I have 154,xxx now.



Had the same Charcaol Canister Circuit OBDII Code, which ive cleared multiple times. I did have an O2/Cat Code as well the very first time, but it never came back.



I tested the valve is does actuate with 12V applied. I'm waiting on a replacment for cheap on ebay.

[m3f_Jrrrrrrr]

Any results to this issues guys.


My 1999 e36 M3 also started doing this last Fall. ALSO at around 150,000 Miles as well. I have 154,xxx now.

No, still no positive results to report. I would say the 150xxx mileage threshold myself and others have mentioned has no bearing because I have read about the same issue from OBD-2 cars with much fewer miles.

Had the same Charcaol Canister Circuit OBDII Code, which ive cleared multiple times. I did have an O2/Cat Code as well the very first time, but it never came back.

O2 sensor codes shouldn't have any relation to evap issues according to the OBD-2 evaporative-system diagnostic documents I posted. I have an occasional (about every 3 months) precat code myself. I am holding off replacing the precat sensors due to normal gas mileage and not needing to smog my car for another 6 months -- plus, the sensors for my late-98 build car are expensive

I tested the valve is does actuate with 12V applied. I'm waiting on a replacment for cheap on ebay.

Having read many reports where people replace that valve on the charcoal canister to no success, as well as doing it myself several times (testing the valve function each time) with no resolution, I'm confident that it probably doesn't have anything to do with the issue at hand. Hopefully you didn't pay too much.


To be honest, the only thing I have been able to do to make the CEL less frequent is to warm the car up very well before hitting constant revs on the freeway. The code is still present in the DME upon a scan, but oddly enough won't trip a CEL. It makes no sense according to those evaporative-system diagnostic documents I posted, but that's my anecdotal finding.

[m3f_chgrec]

I too have the same issue I have been chasing for over 3-4 years now on my 98 M roadster with 178k and have had it since about 140k miles. I used to just ignore it (or use my reset trick mentioned below to get past annual emissions) but now since I want to sell my car, I need to correct the issue.



I can make the code clear anytime if I simply fill the gas tank. Once I do, I wait 3 engine starts and the CEL goes away. As long as I avoid 60 mph in 5th gear, the light stays off. Routine lower speed driving, even bursts of speed or maintaining speeds above 60 don’t trigger the CEL. The CEL comes on in about 3 seconds once I settle in 5th gear at 60 mph.



I have replaced the evap shut off valve, fuel cap gasket and the valve under the hood as well as checked all the hoses, voltage, etc.



I'd hate to take it to the dealer for a software update as they want 2 hours labor....Hopefully someone here will be able to find what works. A lot of people will be very happy that day



Chris

[m3f_chgrec]

I am going to try 2 things....



1st I'll try swapping out the fuse for the evap shut off valve just to make sure there isn't a voltage drop caused to a weak fuse. According to the schematics I found (here on page 55 for the e36, different for my M roady), my fuse is #13 in the regular box but in the e36 it is under the dash is another hidden fuse box (nice). The fuse is a long shot and I am not expecting it to work.



Option 2 and my brightest (and so far only real) hope so far is a flash of the DME. The dealer wants **gasp** $279.99 to do it….I did however find a local BMW shop that can do it for $99. Seems the ( TSB 122099 describes my issue exactly….



I probably can’t make it to the shop for a week or 2 but I’ll post if the problem is resolved once they get done…



Chris

[m3f_Nipps]

I have a 99 M3 with 178k miles. I get the 'Evap Shut off valve stuck closed' CEL typically after 80+ continuous highway miles. I have noticed that if I drive 80 highway miles in the morning, then turn around in the evening and drive 80 miles back, I will tend to get the CEL on the trip back although it is typically less than 60 miles in.



Subscribed for results!

[m3f_Jrrrrrrr]

I am going to try 2 things....



1st I'll try swapping out the fuse for the evap shut off valve just to make sure there isn't a voltage drop caused to a weak fuse. According to the schematics I found (here on page 55 for the e36, different for my M roady), my fuse is #13 in the regular box but in the e36 it is under the dash is another hidden fuse box (nice). The fuse is a long shot and I am not expecting it to work.

The fuse is installed on a holder attached to the steering column in an OBD-2 e36. Testing for continuity between this and the shutoff valve is quick and, along with checking the continuity between the valve's ground wire and DME, one of the first things I did.

Option 2 and my brightest (and so far only real) hope so far is a flash of the DME. The dealer wants **gasp** $279.99 to do it….I did however find a local BMW shop that can do it for $99. Seems the ( TSB 122099 describes my issue exactly.

122099 is the bulletin number I was searching for,

I probably can’t make it to the shop for a week or 2 but I’ll post if the problem is resolved once they get done.

Please do post results

I have a 99 M3 with 178k miles. I get the 'Evap Shut off valve stuck closed' CEL typically after 80+ continuous highway miles. I have noticed that if I drive 80 highway miles in the morning, then turn around in the evening and drive 80 miles back, I will tend to get the CEL on the trip back although it is typically less than 60 miles in.

The correlation between highway driving and this CEL/code is interesting.

[m3f_bigo1087]

I replaced my Purge Valve., cleared the CEL. No Luck. I drove about 150 Miles two ways in a trip, but it wasnt slow enough to complete a drive cycle, as soon as i made a trip with constant rev's around 60. CEL Came back. for the Code.





EDIT- I wanted to mention. My car has Dinan Stage III software loaded by the PO. for 3.5 intake and 3.5 HFM. Doesnot anyone else have non stock software.



Here's a Pic of the e36 drive cycle if anyone hasnt seen it. I just need to figure this out, as i'm trying to sell the car.

[m3f_chgrec]

I replaced my Purge Valve., cleared the CEL. No Luck. I drove about 150 Miles two ways in a trip, but it wasnt slow enough to complete a drive cycle, as soon as i made a trip with constant rev's around 60. CEL Came back. for the Code.





EDIT- I wanted to mention. My car has Dinan Stage III software loaded by the PO. for 3.5 intake and 3.5 HFM. Doesnot anyone else have non stock software.



Here's a Pic of the e36 drive cycle if anyone hasnt seen it. I just need to figure this out, as i'm trying to sell the car.

I used to do a reset of the codes and then drive this cycle to get the obd ready for testing. It was exceedingly hard however to do the highway part in Atlanta. If you drive speed limit here on the interstate people get really cranky and want to run you over....Then I discovered I could simply fill the tank, turn off/on the car 3 times and the light would go out without a reset. I then head straight to the emissions place. That has worked for a couple years so far.



Like you I want to sell my car and want everything working properly before I do. Looks like I will be able to go get the DME patched on the 17th and I'll post results once thats done.



Chris

[m3f_Nipps]

The correlation between highway driving and this CEL/code is interesting.

Got it again this weekend... I got home late and did not reset the CEL. It ended up clearing it's self, although I'm not sure how many times I had restarted the car.



Drove under 10 miles on a full tank before driving 80 miles. I might point out that my speed was anywhere from 65-80mph, with multiple "grid lock" traffic spots... Gotta love LA. On the drive back, I was cruise controlled at 65 and I got the CEL around the 50 mile mark. Not sure if ambient temperature plays any role: 90 Degrees on the drive out, about 68 on the drive back. M3 was parked for about 5 hours outside, ambient temp of about 75.

[m3f_bigo1087]

Any Updates anyone? I inquired at the BMW/Dinan dealership about getting my DME Relflased to the newest version, then having my Dinan Sftw reloaded.



Tommmorw.I will go check that fuse and test for ground continuity.

[m3f_chgrec]

I haven't been to have my M roady re-flashed as I am out of town for work....Hopefully I can get it done Friday but it could be early next week.



Ironic thing is on my way home before I left for the airport, the CEL went out all by itself. And I hadn't put gas in the car recently....



Ill post once I get the flash done and we will see.



Chris

[m3f_Jrrrrrrr]

I haven't been to have my M roady re-flashed as I am out of town for work....Hopefully I can get it done Friday but it could be early next week.



Ironic thing is on my way home before I left for the airport, the CEL went out all by itself. And I hadn't put gas in the car recently....



Ill post once I get the flash done and we will see.



Chris

So have you gotten the DME reflash?



Does anyone else have any updates to this situation.

[m3f_hakentt-mss54]

Problem is not the fuel tank, it is the resistors and transistors inside the DME, this is why after spending so much money to fix this issue you still have the code.

The resistors gain a little resistance trough the age, this causes DME to thing pressure is off, triggering the evaporative system fault.



BMW issued a flash update for DME that increases the tolerances of the evaporative system. What I do is increase the tolerances in the program even more, so even without a fuel tank cap you will never get a code and emissions rediness monitor will always stay as "pass",



Your DME needs to be reflashed, I can do it for cheap, contact me PM, or on another forum search for Hakentt

[m3f_Jrrrrrrr]

Update


I tried two things today and am finally happy to say, the DME has not set a pending code for "P0446/253/FD" -- IE, the dredded "evap-shutoff-valve-stuck closed." Before, I always had a pending FD code when the CEL wasn't illuminated. I could start it up after resetting the CEL, idle for a few minutres, and there would be a pending FD code when I scanned after shutting the car off.


I have driven through the drive cycle procedure and all my emissions monitors (besides SAI) are set ready -- including the evaporative monitor, which had never once shown a readiness status. I think I may have solved this problem.


First, I removed the carbon canister and blew compressed air through the inlet, outlet, and vent lines. I also blew compressed air into the shut-off valve's bore.











Note: the shut-off valve only controls the passage of air out the thick line next to it. I noticed there was a fair bit of dust that came out of the shut-off valve bore when I blew compressed air into it.


Then, with the purge valve in the engine bay energized, I blew compressed air through the line in the trunk, effectively through a path all the way to the intake manifold.








Note: The air nozzle is inserted in the line that runs to the purge valve and intake manifold. If the purge valve isn't energized by 12v, the air will have nowhere to go.


I'm not sure which one of these two things worked. Before, I had tried to blow compressed air through the purge-valve line while it was disconnected, so I know that was unclogged. I'm thinking perhaps there was a clog in the purge valve itself, or the rubber line between the valve and intake manifold. In essence, the O2 sensors would never detect fuel vapors from being combusted and the DME never completed the evaporative monitor.


Here's hoping this fix sticks and I can go get a smog check while only having to worry about passing the sniffer test!

[m3f_Foda420]

Happy to hear that you've been able to solve the problem! I hope it lasts for you. I've been having the same issue and have a spare charcoal canister I'm procrastinating on swapping in.


Where was yours located? I was under the impression that it was above the wheel well liner on the passenger rear (remove tire and liner to access). I just read two different locations for it though - underneath the spare and driver side strut tower (though the latter may have been referring to the purge valve). Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm probably going to tackle this sometime in the next couple weeks.