Homemade ramps

[m3f_abcurran_571a4e2c55]

Anyone ever give this some thought?



Jack stands are nice and all, but not sure if I'll ever feel completely comfortable under them. Plus, I'm often left wishing the car was always a little higher.



Anyway, stumbled across this page that had some interesting ideas and just felt like sharing and below is a pic of one of the better executions.



http://corvettec3.ca/ramps.htm



http://corvettec3.ca/ramps/ramp16.jpg

[m3f_OahuMPower_17503f01cd]

I'll take my 6ton jackstands all day, everyday, and twice on sunday...


all that wood makes for rolling in/out and around the car a GIANT PITA..


no thanks... great idea for basic wrenching though

[m3f_ntonar]

I have built riser blocks ( you jack up the car and place them under the wheel) with 4x4's and 2x8's. It is the same idea just on a smaller scale, downside is you can't just drive up onto them. Upside is that they are so much smaller

[m3f_lucad2_e46cc6d949]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/13/ehany9ej.jpg


I made these last year, so far they have been great. I only made 2 but considering making another 2 so the car could be level


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[m3f_abcurran_571a4e2c55]

I'll take my 6ton jackstands all day, everyday, and twice on sunday...



all that wood makes for rolling in/out and around the car a GIANT PITA..



no thanks... great idea for basic wrenching though



I can understand with how often you drop front and rear sub frames access and maneuverability is pretty critical. Maybe I'd have been better off with a jack that lifts higher than 18".



But the built in lighting and power supply under that Nissan is pretty nice.

[m3f_///Momentu_85e98078cf]

My homeade ramps are blue and yellow and go straight up... :lolhit:

[m3f_aeronaut_a45ef47b73]

Half the work I seem to do requires removing a wheel, so, jack stands for me, until I get a mancave big enough to install a lift.

[m3f_englishtom_70cc2c7eca]

I bought this thing


http://www.harborfreight.com/low-profilehigh-lift-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-2-ton-heavy-duty-68050.html


Gets it up no problem. then throw my 6ton jackstands under and call it a day.

[m3f_abcurran_571a4e2c55]

I bought this thing



http://www.harborfreight.com/low-profilehigh-lift-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-2-ton-heavy-duty-68050.html



Gets it up no problem. then throw my 6ton jackstands under and call it a day.



I went with the 3 ton regular profile jack. Oh well. At least it was 50 bucks cheaper.

[m3f_englishtom_70cc2c7eca]

i like mine because it will go under my car all the way to front or rear subframe rather than jacking up on all 4 corners

[m3f_Nipps_461cf93ed7]

Being under a car can already feel cramped enough. Those wood ramps would make me feel even more cramped and limited!



Great package from Craftsman that goes on sale all the time: http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-3-ton-floor-jack-stands-and/p-00950188000P?prdNo=5

[m3f_lucad2_e46cc6d949]

Mine look like this but I also put in a built-in chock mechanism where I can slide a piece of wood into a cavity behind the wheel after I drive onto them (as an added safety precaution). Mine are just high enough for oil changes and some front end work (I've done tensioners and belts, etc.) but I'm getting to a point where jackstands are the next logical step. I need to do some power steering system work and I don't trust turning the wheels to lock on the ramps.


Having a chock on the ramps is a good idea. I built ones for the back wheels that work quite well. I would of liked to make my final step longer just to have more room but these have worked good for me so far


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[m3f_vmbray_980ce7cf9e]

The hf six ton with the rubber tops they sell separately work great with or without the pucks on the car. I have some three ton that I use too because sometimes can't get car high enough the first time round.


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[m3f_abcurran_571a4e2c55]

For the guys that use jack stands, do you have any issues using the typical "u" shaped jack stand tops on the side skirt jack points? If you remove the pucks it would seem like a flat rubber top jack would be best, like the ESCO ones, but they are $$$$ (and still made in China). The u-shaped ones would only have 2 contact points which seems inherently less stable, particularly as you're raising the car.



Sorry to go OT, OP. FWIW while the original image you posted looks cool - esp. with the lights under there, I wonder what he's got under the plywood and what protects against shear forces since clearly on some level those ramps are actually hollow.



That's been one of my complaints on the HF jack stands - the U shape contact patch. Most stands look like that is their normal set up until you get to the more expensive designs like Esco. I always wondered how a few applications of plasti-dip would hold up on the U shaped stand. Maybe I should try it out.



The link in the first post has a few different designs, but shows the construction of the ramps pictured. They look to be framed with 2x6 lumber. Not sure how far apart the studs are and I'd probably double up at the front, rear and middle.

[m3f_scoobiedoo_9bf48826bc]

That's been one of my complaints on the HF jack stands - the U shape contact patch. Most stands look like that is their normal set up until you get to the more expensive designs like Esco. I always wondered how a few applications of plasti-dip would hold up on the U shaped stand. Maybe I should try it out.



The link in the first post has a few different designs, but shows the construction of the ramps pictured. They look to be framed with 2x6 lumber. Not sure how far apart the studs are and I'd probably double up at the front, rear and middle.



i cut up small peices of wood for my jack stands and make that u into a flat surface a while back made a u thing and bolted it together with metal on both sides so it couldn't move. , ive since gotten beter jack stands but it was a god send for not marking up my frame rails when using them as a jack stand point. my old e28 got some rust in this are form being a jack stand jockey all its life and driving in snow.