Has anyone else had this problem with their door panels un-gluing from all the plastic trim pieces that clip into the door frame? This is the 4th or 5th time I will be re-gluing my door panels since I bought my car in 2008. Curious to know what kind of glue everyone has used for this project. Looks like the epoxy I use doesn't do the trick.
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I think I used automotive super glue on mine. Been holding fine for a few years now. -
Has anyone else had this problem with their door panels un-gluing from all the plastic trim pieces that clip into the door frame? This is the 4th or 5th time I will be re-gluing my door panels since I bought my car in 2008. Curious to know what kind of glue everyone has used for this project. Looks like the epoxy I use doesn't do the trick.I used a 90 minute epoxy 2 1/2 years ago and it is still holding fine.
How does the epoxy fail? How are you preparing the surfaces?Comment
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I used a 90 minute epoxy 2 1/2 years ago and it is still holding fine.
How does the epoxy fail? How are you preparing the surfaces?
If you want the best, use PC-7. Hard to mix, hard to apply, but will hold forever. I mean it, don't use it if you ever want to undo something. It's way stronger than the materials in these door panels.Comment
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That appears comparable to the epoxy I used, Uhu Plus Endfest 300. I am not crazy about PC-7's standard, 2% elongation ratio. That is pretty stiff for bonding unsealed wood and wood product. You can increase the flexible of both, however, by mixing in extra hardener.Comment
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I found that gorilla glue performs better than the epoxies. It penetrates the wood based panel a bit better.Comment
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I like the idea of a ureathane adhesive (I believe gorilla glue is one), but I would find it helpful to first know why epoxy hasn't been working out. It may not be the issue. It would make me unhappy to recommend an adhesive, have it fail, and cause the OP to re-glue his door panels a sixth or seventh time.Comment
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I like the idea of a ureathane adhesive (I believe gorilla glue is one), but I would find it helpful to first know why epoxy hasn't been working out. It may not be the issue. It would make me unhappy to recommend an adhesive, have it fail, and cause the OP to re-glue his door panels a sixth or seventh time.
The epoxy (I tried some laminating epoxy and some hardware store 15 minute on two different attempts) suffered adhesive failure from the wood. If adhered quite well to the plastic parts (I had cleaned with acetone and roughed it with 80 grit. Even cleaned and roughed up, the adhesive pulled from the wood. The Gorilla glue (yes it is a urethane adhesive) has been going strong for a year now.Comment
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I like the idea of a ureathane adhesive (I believe gorilla glue is one), but I would find it helpful to first know why epoxy hasn't been working out. It may not be the issue. It would make me unhappy to recommend an adhesive, have it fail, and cause the OP to re-glue his door panels a sixth or seventh time. :lolhit: Urethane adhesive was another option I was considering. I'm thinking something that has some kind of elasticity to it would be a better option. I think the problem with epoxy is that it becomes too brittle/stiff over time, thus breaking the bond from the panel.
The epoxy (I tried some laminating epoxy and some hardware store 15 minute on two different attempts) suffered adhesive failure from the wood. If adhered quite well to the plastic parts (I had cleaned with acetone and roughed it with 80 grit. Even cleaned and roughed up, the adhesive pulled from the wood. The Gorilla glue (yes it is a urethane adhesive) has been going strong for a year now.
This sums it up well. Any plastic that separated from the door panel, the epoxy is still adhered to the plastic.Comment
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I've never had good luck with anything that drys super hard (read: brittle). You want something that remains pliable since the door is constantly slammed shut.
My latest trick is premium exterior constrution adhesive from HD/Lowes. This shit bonds anything (I use it constantly for home projects), is ultra tough and remains pliable. That said, I don't think you'll ever get the two panels apart again without completely destroying them. Probably what we want, though.
On previous cars I've had 100% success rate using the 3M Super Trim Adhesive (the yellow stuff that looks like snot). It's essentially a high-temp contact cement, and again, remains pliable.Comment
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Automotive GOOP.
It remains rubbery.
Another mistake folks make is to re-glue the top horizontal plastic to the door card.
I do NOT re-glue the top horizontal plastic piece to the door card.
The top horizontal plastic part will break into a dozen pieces over time. Just let it stay connected to the door and leave it in the least amount of pieces possible.
Sure.... you can glue it but the next time that door panel has to come off, it'll break into more pieces. If all the other pieces are glued well, the door panel will hold solid.
Keep in mind, you can't buy the black plastic pieces anymore. You can buy nice white plugs, however.Comment
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I've always had great success with 3M spray adhesives! In the case of door panels and door cards I've used 3M Hi-Strenght 90, bought it at the local hardware store and works like a champ.Comment
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Gorilla glue is what I used. Works like a charm just don't use too much.Comment
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I found that gorilla glue performs better than the epoxies. It penetrates the wood based panel a bit better.
I also used the 2 part Gorilla Glue that you mix. I did mine 6 years ago and its still holding just fine. Definitely be careful with epoxy because some will leave a smell in the car for a very long time.:thumbsup2:Comment
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Automotive GOOP.
That was the first thing I tried. It didn't adhere to the plastic very well...Comment
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