Any special instructions for valve cover stud install?

[m3f_antik_3155fc7858]

I pulled the valve cover off my 98 last night. [Again. The aftermarket gasket hasn't held for s---.]


2 of the studs came up with their nut. The studs came out of the head cleanly and so far as I can tell they're in good shape. I hit them with a little PB Blaster and expect to separate them from the nut this afternoon when I get back to it.


With the stud free, I'm imagining I can just torque the studs back into the head and continue about reinstallation of the valve cover.


I have an appropriate torque wrench to handle the in/lb torque specs. Are there any other provisions for reinstalling the studs in the head? Loctite or similar, perhaps? Or just torque them dry?


Is there any issue with reusing the studs since came out of the head? Should I run up to the dealer and pickup new ones?

[m3f_vanishM3_3597d8a9e7]

half of what youre saying is very confusing.


there are no 'special' instructions on how to replace your valve cover gasket, just the same, regular instructions everyone else uses.

[m3f_antik_3155fc7858]

half of what youre saying is very confusing.



there are no 'special' instructions on how to replace your valve cover gasket, just the same, regular instructions everyone else uses.



I changed the use of "grommet" to "nut".



This isn't a question about regular valve cover gasket installation. This is a question about the studs that the valve cover retainer nuts screw onto having come out of the head. I'm not sure what provisions are necessary to reinstall these studs into the head.

[m3f_Braymond14_63960d99c1]

Provisions? Pick up a socket and install the stud back into the head. It isn't as complicated as you're making it.

[m3f_Braymond14_63960d99c1]

half of what youre saying is very confusing.


there are no 'special' instructions on how to replace your valve cover gasket, just the same, regular instructions everyone else uses.


I disagree. There are far too many keyboard warriors out there who rely on torque values (although I can only reference the E46Fanatic forum kind). The cap nut design needs to be better understood so people stop putting a torque value on it. 1/4" ratchet, hand turn, distribute gasket compression evenly, stop cap nut when you hit bottom, done.

[m3f_antik_3155fc7858]

Thanks Braymond. That's what I figured but I wanted a sanity check.


My experience, if anything, is that the supplied torque numbers for the valve covers is pretty helpful, if not a tiny bit short of dead on. Some of the nuts will click at torque spec a little before the nut has bottomed out, it feels like. That or those nuts are the ones that are now bound to studs on the bench


I dislike that they're so damn fragile. I'd prefer more tolerance for my ineptitude.

[m3f_englishtom_70cc2c7eca]

once again braymond and i completely agree. Its not hard, install until snug, don't wrench it down or you'll strip the head and don't leave it loose. Anywhere in-between is good.


Putting the top nuts that hold the valve cover on they just go until they bottom on the head and done. leaving them less will not put enough pressure on the gasket and too tight you're just putting load on the stud.


You don't need a torque wrench for this job and you certainly don't need one for every little job on these cars or any unless its very intricate like engine bearings, timing components and lug bolts etc

[m3f_haus_d0788a130d]

You don't need a torque wrench for this job and you certainly don't need one for every little job on these cars or any unless its very intricate like engine bearings, timing components and lug bolts etc



To be fair, I needed a torque wrench for this job because this is the first car I've ever seriously worked on, and when I started I didn't know what different torque values felt like in the handle. Most of you guys have been working on cars for years and have it down, but if someone wants to get it right because they may not be 100% sure, that's OK.



OP don't use locktite; the studs are designed to be snug and removable (they will snap to protect the engine if you were to overrighten the cap nuts). Since they did come out, just take a look to see if the threads look OK before you put them back, but you're probably fine.

[m3f_matty._8f296fe76d]

I'll play devils advocate. I recommend torque values as an unbiased reference (take them or leave them). There are some hamfisted individuals and you can't quantify 'tight' to these people. 'Snug' and 'tight' are subjective. These are the people who have stripped or broken their sump drain bolts, you know who you are. And fwiw there is some damage that can be done by over tightening a valve cover. OBDII are plastic and brittle so in addition to snapping a stud, can crack. Have you priced a valve cover?



It is nice of bmw to include a nut on the stud though.

[m3f_Braymond14_63960d99c1]

I'll play devils advocate. I recommend torque values as an unbiased reference (take them or leave them). There are some hamfisted individuals and you can't quantify 'tight' to these people. 'Snug' and 'tight' are subjective. These are the people who have stripped or broken their sump drain bolts, you know who you are. And fwiw there is some damage that can be done by over tightening a valve cover. OBDII are plastic and brittle so in addition to snapping a stud, can crack. Have you priced a valve cover?



It is nice of bmw to include a nut on the stud though.



I guess I should clarify. Understanding the parts you are installing goes further than a torque value. A bottom out design doesn't have a critical torque value. Same goes for people using tools too big (or too small) for the task at hand. ie; 10ft lbs on a 3/8' torque wrench is a dumb idea.

[m3f_englishtom_70cc2c7eca]

once again, agreed. Also need to understand the fastener you are tightening. For example the water pump bolts which everyone likes to snap. They're a M8 i believe, either way they're skinny so as braymond said, 1/4 over 3/8ths and not wrenching it down like a moron and voila!

[m3f_M3_t]

just my 2 cents but although I use a torque wrench everywhere I can, the torque a a bolt or fastener sees is not representative of the tension that exists in the bolt, which is of higher concern since that's what you really want to measure. if you use a torque wrench, make sure all the threads are clean or lubricated (depending on application) as much as possible as dirty threads will have much less tension on the bolt for the same torque as a bolt with clean threads. I like using a torque wrench because when fastening on a long piece of metal with many fasteners, even tension is important. even if all bolts are torqued correctly and one isn't, then that will create a void on the other end from uneven pressure if you get what I'm saying. use a torque wrench, I recommend it, and most serious mechanics will as well. it prevents breaking bolts for the most part, which is nice lol

[m3f_englishtom_70cc2c7eca]

just my 2 cents but although I use a torque wrench everywhere I can, the torque a a bolt or fastener sees is not representative of the tension that exists in the bolt, which is of higher concern since that's what you really want to measure. if you use a torque wrench, make sure all the threads are clean or lubricated (depending on application) as much as possible as dirty threads will have much less tension on the bolt for the same torque as a bolt with clean threads. I like using a torque wrench because when fastening on a long piece of metal with many fasteners, even tension is important. even if all bolts are torqued correctly and one isn't, then that will create a void on the other end from uneven pressure if you get what I'm saying. use a torque wrench, I recommend it, and most serious mechanics will as well. it prevents breaking bolts for the most part, which is nice lol



have you ever worked in a shop? Because those who have know that nobody uses torque wrenches for anything other than critical engine specs. Of all the shops i've worked for, only a few use them for wheels (i'm a believer that they should be used for wheels). Even BMW guys don't walk around the shop with their trusty torque wrenches, looking up torque specs for every bolt. They zip it down with and impact or wrench until its tight and ship it out. For a home DIYer who wants to take there time then torquing is fine but at the same time some people get absolutely ridiculous with it.

[m3f_M3_t]

lol okay bro.


he's DIY so let him use a torque wrench if he wants to. can't hurt anything.

[m3f_M_Parallel_6524444761]

As per other model BMW engines (maybe all), it's the actual rubber grommet under the bolt that applies the pressure on the gasket.


These headstuds/bolts only go into the head a certain amount. Would you leave out the grommet, then you have a void and a loose valve cover.


So when doing the gasket, always replace the rubber grommets as well, as these are essential for correct force on the gasket.