Originally posted by cobra
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Suspension Refresh Questions
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I have a local shop that does a lot of suspension tuning for local race teams. They are the only ones who still offer lifetime alignment - and its only $300!Originally posted by oldFanatic View PostAh I miss the good days when I had lifetime alignment. My contacts sold their shops so I gotta pay for the good ones now.
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Ah I miss the good days when I had lifetime alignment. My contacts sold their shops so I gotta pay for the good ones now.Originally posted by TexaZ3 View PostI don't know. I have lifetime alignment. I do alignment every two months or so. Its just $60-70 if that just for the front anyway.
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I don't know. I have lifetime alignment. I do alignment every two months or so. Its just $60-70 if that just for the front anyway.Originally posted by oldFanatic View PostBut how do tires address his new “one strange symptom is that when backing out of a parking space with my wheels turned almost to the lock, I can feel a clunk from the front end”?
That sounds like a steering/suspension component. If he gets an alignment first then has to fix steering components on the car he’ll be wasting/paying again for an alignment, no?
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But how do tires address his new “one strange symptom is that when backing out of a parking space with my wheels turned almost to the lock, I can feel a clunk from the front end”?Originally posted by TexaZ3 View PostBecause half of the time it is your tires, not your suspension. And you need tires anyway.
That sounds like a steering/suspension component. If he gets an alignment first then has to fix steering components on the car he’ll be wasting/paying again for an alignment, no?
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Because half of the time it is your tires, not your suspension. And you need tires anyway.Originally posted by cobra View PostWhy would I replace my tires, get an alignment, and THEN find out the issue? lol that seems totally backwards.
I am going to do a little more investigation and post an update here soon when I can find the time.
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I'm working on suspension arm & bushings Group Buy packages for the E9X with Turner Motorsport.
Would there be interest for E46s?
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Seconded. Went from OE rubber with limiters to CMP monoball as well and there was no appreciable increase in NVH. Rear feels more planted too.Originally posted by oceansize View Post
I would really recommend solids. A large percentage of us on the forum have moved to solid RTABs and solid subframe bushings since there is no appreciable NVH penalty. For the subframe bushings not recommended unless reinforced. I had OEM RTABS with limiters prior to solids and the solids are infinitely better. I went with CMP for both.
Plates for bottom reinforcement (redish) and CMP or Vince Bar for top side reinforcment.
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I would really recommend solids. A large percentage of us on the forum have moved to solid RTABs and solid subframe bushings since there is no appreciable NVH penalty. For the subframe bushings not recommended unless reinforced. I had OEM RTABS with limiters prior to solids and the solids are infinitely better. I went with CMP for both.Originally posted by cobra View Post
Thats the plan. OEM plus limiters.
Plates for bottom reinforcement (redish) and CMP or Vince Bar for top side reinforcment.
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Do the spherical upgrade for the RTABs or at least add limiters in addition to OEM rubber.Originally posted by cobra View PostI also found the RTABs are completely shot (again). They have 40k miles on them, and I'm sure that's contributing to the overall loose handling.
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Once I Changed my steering guibo, my steering stiffed up a ton. It was very loose beforehand. Difference was huge.
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Alright I spent a good amount of time inspecting the suspension today.
The ball joints, tie rods, and endlinks all feel great. No play whatsoever. The passenger side FCAB has a little bit of play, and the driver side is tight. FBloggs nailed that one!
The steering rack has a tiny bit of play but it's really quite miniscule. I'm still unsure what's causing the clunk feeling I felt, but I am going to replace the FCAB's anyway.
I also found the RTABs are completely shot (again). They have 40k miles on them, and I'm sure that's contributing to the overall loose handling.
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