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Suspension Refresh Questions

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  • TexaZ3
    replied
    Originally posted by cobra View Post

    Dang. I haven't had an alignment in like 8 years lol.
    Dude....

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    Originally posted by TexaZ3 View Post

    I don't know. I have lifetime alignment. I do alignment every two months or so. Its just $60-70 if that just for the front anyway.
    Dang. I haven't had an alignment in like 8 years lol.

    Leave a comment:


  • TexaZ3
    replied
    Originally posted by oldFanatic View Post
    Ah I miss the good days when I had lifetime alignment. My contacts sold their shops so I gotta pay for the good ones now.
    I have a local shop that does a lot of suspension tuning for local race teams. They are the only ones who still offer lifetime alignment - and its only $300!

    Leave a comment:


  • old///MFanatic
    replied
    Originally posted by TexaZ3 View Post
    I don't know. I have lifetime alignment. I do alignment every two months or so. Its just $60-70 if that just for the front anyway.
    Ah I miss the good days when I had lifetime alignment. My contacts sold their shops so I gotta pay for the good ones now.

    Leave a comment:


  • TexaZ3
    replied
    Originally posted by oldFanatic View Post
    But how do tires address his new “one strange symptom is that when backing out of a parking space with my wheels turned almost to the lock, I can feel a clunk from the front end”?
    That sounds like a steering/suspension component. If he gets an alignment first then has to fix steering components on the car he’ll be wasting/paying again for an alignment, no?
    I don't know. I have lifetime alignment. I do alignment every two months or so. Its just $60-70 if that just for the front anyway.

    Leave a comment:


  • old///MFanatic
    replied
    Originally posted by TexaZ3 View Post
    Because half of the time it is your tires, not your suspension. And you need tires anyway.
    But how do tires address his new “one strange symptom is that when backing out of a parking space with my wheels turned almost to the lock, I can feel a clunk from the front end”?
    That sounds like a steering/suspension component. If he gets an alignment first then has to fix steering components on the car he’ll be wasting/paying again for an alignment, no?

    Leave a comment:


  • TexaZ3
    replied
    Originally posted by cobra View Post
    Why would I replace my tires, get an alignment, and THEN find out the issue? lol that seems totally backwards.

    I am going to do a little more investigation and post an update here soon when I can find the time.
    Because half of the time it is your tires, not your suspension. And you need tires anyway.

    Leave a comment:


  • Epoustouflant
    replied
    I'm working on suspension arm & bushings Group Buy packages for the E9X with Turner Motorsport.

    Would there be interest for E46s?

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by oceansize View Post

    I would really recommend solids. A large percentage of us on the forum have moved to solid RTABs and solid subframe bushings since there is no appreciable NVH penalty. For the subframe bushings not recommended unless reinforced. I had OEM RTABS with limiters prior to solids and the solids are infinitely better. I went with CMP for both.

    Plates for bottom reinforcement (redish) and CMP or Vince Bar for top side reinforcment.
    Seconded. Went from OE rubber with limiters to CMP monoball as well and there was no appreciable increase in NVH. Rear feels more planted too.

    Leave a comment:


  • oceansize
    replied
    Originally posted by cobra View Post

    Thats the plan. OEM plus limiters.
    I would really recommend solids. A large percentage of us on the forum have moved to solid RTABs and solid subframe bushings since there is no appreciable NVH penalty. For the subframe bushings not recommended unless reinforced. I had OEM RTABS with limiters prior to solids and the solids are infinitely better. I went with CMP for both.

    Plates for bottom reinforcement (redish) and CMP or Vince Bar for top side reinforcment.

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    Originally posted by r4dr View Post

    Do the spherical upgrade for the RTABs or at least add limiters in addition to OEM rubber.
    Thats the plan. OEM plus limiters.

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    Originally posted by Mattn1192 View Post
    Once I Changed my steering guibo, my steering stiffed up a ton. It was very loose beforehand. Difference was huge.
    I replaced mine already and it looks tight still.

    Leave a comment:


  • r4dr
    replied
    Originally posted by cobra View Post
    I also found the RTABs are completely shot (again). They have 40k miles on them, and I'm sure that's contributing to the overall loose handling.
    Do the spherical upgrade for the RTABs or at least add limiters in addition to OEM rubber.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mattn1192
    replied
    Once I Changed my steering guibo, my steering stiffed up a ton. It was very loose beforehand. Difference was huge.

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    Alright I spent a good amount of time inspecting the suspension today.

    The ball joints, tie rods, and endlinks all feel great. No play whatsoever. The passenger side FCAB has a little bit of play, and the driver side is tight. FBloggs nailed that one!

    The steering rack has a tiny bit of play but it's really quite miniscule. I'm still unsure what's causing the clunk feeling I felt, but I am going to replace the FCAB's anyway.

    I also found the RTABs are completely shot (again). They have 40k miles on them, and I'm sure that's contributing to the overall loose handling.

    Leave a comment:

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