Suspension Refresh Questions

[FBloggs]

My car needed the entire front lower suspension replaced at 83k miles.
If you want to do things piecemeal, replace the flcabs first.
If you have the factory USA headers, the RF flcab has almost certainly been fried by the first cat.

[Chubacca]

I'd start with a set of fresh tires and a front end alignment. THEN you can figure out what is worn.
But honestly, at 100k, I'd replace everything but the springs both front and rear. In fact, if changing shocks, do the springs too. Bilstein B12 Pro kit is terrific and relatively cheap.

I'm glad to hear B12s are terrific, I just got them. I was considering KW V3s or Ohlin Road and Track, but felt those were too expensive/overkill for just spirited street and back country driving. Currently, at 90k miles.

[old///MFanatic]

Why would I replace my tires, get an alignment, and THEN find out the issue? lol that seems totally backwards.
I am going to do a little more investigation and post an update here soon when I can find the time.

Agreed.

[cobra]

Why would I replace my tires, get an alignment, and THEN find out the issue? lol that seems totally backwards.

I am going to do a little more investigation and post an update here soon when I can find the time.

[TexaZ3]

I'd start with a set of fresh tires and a front end alignment. THEN you can figure out what is worn.
But honestly, at 100k, I'd replace everything but the springs both front and rear. In fact, if changing shocks, do the springs too. Bilstein B12 Pro kit is terrific and relatively cheap.

[Tbonem3]

Agreed, and ball joints do not go bad at 100k like a lot of people here say (Maybe 'cause Obioban listed to change them at 100k intervals?). Ball joints, unless exposed to the element due to torn rubber boot, can last 500k. So inspect them IMO, but I wouldn't change them at 100k.

Change the rubber stuff, not the bearings. Tie rods really shouldn't be bad at 100k either, no rubber, just a ball joint. They can get so corroded, though, a shop will tell you that they must be replaced in order to carry out the alignment (some penetrant *should* be all you need).

You need motor mounts, steering guibo, strut mounts - stuff like that.

[01SG]

It's not a terrible idea to replace everything for the age and mileage, but you don't have to throw money away. The ball joints in the control arms can last a long time in my experience. I'd do those after seeing if the much cheaper stuff fixed the issue-but then you do get caught paying for another alignment if you do need them...However, I thought they were part of a problem on my car at 120k, but they proved to be entirely serviceable when I got them off. New ones hardly made a difference. The rear bushing is a different story, that wears out much quicker.

Sway bar end links and bushings are cheap and easy while you're in there for the tie-rods.

I wouldn't imagine the CAB clunking unless it was really shot. That could be a lot of things, besides those mentioned there's the strut mounts, steering giubo or upper joint.

[Lukem3]

If the tread of the tire from the inside to the outside increases gradually it's the tie rod to blame for the wear(toe wear). If the inside is worn down, but the center and outside are equal tread then it's the control arms to blame (camber wear).

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[Lukem3]

Wheel when shaken should have no play. Even slight play is excessive. If you see movement from the tie rods replace them. Since the car needs an Alingment might as well do both sides, or all 4 since parts aren't that expensive and you're "already there"
If ones worn the rest are on their way out.
Control arms usually last around 100k on these. The lollipops wear and the ball joints wear. Same thing since you're already getting an Alingment because of the tie rods, i would just swap both control arms with lollipops and have peace of mind. Then you're not paying for an alignment after every repair


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[old///MFanatic]

Yes the balljoints are sturdier and also has solid rubber CABs while non-M E46 does not.

Agreed it could be the rack, or the inner or outer tie rod. I would investigate those areas further.

[EthanolTurbo]

Replace everything you haven't already. Might as well considering the mileage.

[cobra]

Hey guys,
First post here since M3F went under. Such a shame.

Car
Anyway, I've got an 05 M3 with 100k miles. At 60k miles I installed new OEM RTABs, RSM's, and Koni sport shocks all around. Everything has been fine and dandy, and everything else is original.

Symptoms
Recently I've been noticing some general looseness from the handling. My steering feels a bit vague, the car isn't as planted and "hunkered down" like it used to be, and one strange symptom is that when backing out of a parking space with my wheels turned almost to the lock, I can feel a clunk from the front end. While driving there are no clunks or anything. I also notice that the inner edge of both front tires is worn almost smooth, while the rest of the tire has 3/16" of tread remaining.

Diagnostics
I jacked up the front left of the car and tried wiggling the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. It felt perfectly tight, zero play. I then did the same at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and felt noticeable movement. I looked at the FCAB and saw no movement at all, but what I did see is the tie rod moving in and out about 1/4" or so. I squeezed the tie rod and control arm ball joints with pliers and they feel tight.

Questions
-Is a small amount of play at the tie rod normal, or should I further investigate? It would either be play in the rack, or the inner tie-rod end.
-If my FCAB looked solid, should I still replace it?
-On my non-M E46, my control arm ball joints went out around 90k miles and the steering wheel would shake under braking. I have no such symptoms, does the M3 have heavier-duty ball joints?

I could just start throwing parts at it but would like to know the root cause first. Thanks for your input!