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Subframe Dropped and cracks found

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  • scotty737
    replied
    Originally posted by Albino09 View Post
    So, Scotty, how do the Redish V3 interact with the mounting location? I can see they're boxing the location and tying it to the frame rail, but what about the stud and spot welds? Does this kit also convert to a bolt mount similar to Vince or CMP?
    No bolt like the vincebar or cmp. You drill through the spot welds in the cavity on either side and plug weld to the reinforcemnt plate underneat around the threaded portion of the rear mounts. The front mount, they just wanted teh factory mig welds ground down and rewelded and cracked repaired there.

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  • Albino09
    replied
    So, Scotty, how do the Redish V3 interact with the mounting location? I can see they're boxing the location and tying it to the frame rail, but what about the stud and spot welds? Does this kit also convert to a bolt mount similar to Vince or CMP?

    Leave a comment:


  • SQ13
    replied
    I have two rivet Vincebar kits laying around. I planned to DIY the install, but my soul lacks the motivation to drop the subframe and cut up the car. I imagine shops would charge a crazy amount to install. Pain.

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  • VinceSE2
    replied
    Originally posted by enjoy_m3 View Post

    Just to add, I don't think many people know how much of an issue this is on the e46 chassis so here's some pics of mine when I did my vincebar after bottom plates were already added. Failed spot welds that are almost un-noticeable or hidden under seam sealer. My subframe mount cracks were much smaller than yours too. The right way is to take off all the seam sealer where George mentioned because the stress will transfer to panel edges will pull down on the RACP at the edges due to weak design. I drilled, fill-weld the failed spot welds and stitch welded the seams of the RACP at the trunk and wheel wells in addition to the vincebar. Pretty labor intensive but I recommend doing this when doing your rear RACP reinforcement. This is my interpretation of true reinforced RACP.
    Yes, this is very typical damage. And damage that is most often missed as people don’t know to look there, not to mention don’t clean these areas


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • VinceSE2
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    I got it from Vince directly.

    He's on here-- VinceSE2
    👍


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • VinceSE2
    replied
    Originally posted by MTiz View Post
    The CMP Beam kit has been out of stock for a while and I don't want the intrusive VinceBar. I look forward to seeing pictures of the Redish V3 Kit
    The VinceBar, both the original “stealth” and the newer “simplified” designs are completely hidden under the interior and out of the way.

    Here’s the simplified design pictured



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • VinceSE2
    replied
    Originally posted by scotty737 View Post
    I dropped my subframe today and did a quick clean and found cracks at the front two mounting points. The rear mounts looked fine. For the larger crack, it is just a drill the ends and weld correct?

    Going to do a deep clean tomorrow and check the spot welds around the wheel wells.

    For reference: 2006 with 92.5k miles
    For anyone interested, the second picture clearly illustrates why I designed the VinceSkinz the way I did.
    Please have a look at this video, 12 minutes in I show the right front mount and skin https://youtu.be/ucBL4y7LoL0





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by VinceSE2; 09-17-2021, 07:25 AM.

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  • scotty737
    replied
    I finished up the paint/underbody stuff tonight. I tried to replicate the factory "overspray" and now just have a dusted blue trunk. I kinda wish I left it the ecoat color, but it is supposed to be blue. When it dried, the color ended up being appropriate(ignore the white specs from my masking plastic). Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_4729.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	83.8 KB ID:	125695 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_4728.jpg Views:	0 Size:	101.2 KB ID:	125520 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_4726.jpg Views:	0 Size:	49.5 KB ID:	125521 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_4727.jpg Views:	0 Size:	59.5 KB ID:	125522
    Last edited by scotty737; 09-09-2021, 03:00 PM.

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  • scotty737
    replied
    Originally posted by BMWE46M3 View Post
    scotty737 - Did you have to remove your gas tank to have the plates welded?
    Yes, tank needs to be removed. Redish is a superior kit, larger plates and that doesn't have any top side reinforcement.

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  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Definitely remove your gas tank. It partially covers one of the mounts. Also, gasoline + welding sparks is not a good combination

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  • BMWE46M3
    replied
    Also wondering why the majority of folks don't appear to use the Bimmerworld kit? https://www.bimmerworld.com/About-Us...ent-Kit_2.html

    The kit is reasonably priced and addresses both top and bottom like the Reddish V3 kit unless I'm mistaken. Any feedback on this would be appreciated.

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  • BMWE46M3
    replied
    scotty737 - Did you have to remove your gas tank to have the plates welded?

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  • Nate047
    replied
    Yea I mean my car was (is?) a big pile of shit that I way over paid for, and have been suffering through fixing up over the last 3 years. I am in so far I will never come close to getting my money back, so may as well keep it and enjoy it... Money is just a social construct anyway. :P

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  • tnord
    replied
    I've deferred it for quite some time. I have 110k on the clock, bought the car with 86k in 2010, and have really just done maintenance most of the way. VANOS and cooling was the first big project because that could be immediately catastrophic without warning. Mine is a transition build early 2003.5, and as it turned out I didn't actually have the HP DME, so I'm worried I don't have the updated bearings either and haven't really driven more than a few hundred miles since I learned that.

    Car is going in for bearings on Friday, and hoping to deal with the subframe in the spring so I can actually start driving it without worrying. Yeah, I'll probably be into this car for close to $30k, but it's probably worth every bit of that with the big 3 done and a good build spec.

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  • scotty737
    replied
    Yeah, I deferred this job for 4 years. Spent a lot of time/money modding. I wouldn’t say I regret doing that, but I should have done this sooner. I wasn’t ready to tackle this type of job 4 years ago. Bearings and cooling system are next. Vanos was done right after I got the car. Should be good for a long time after this work is completed.

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