Originally posted by Albino09
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Subframe Dropped and cracks found
Collapse
X
-
No bolt like the vincebar or cmp. You drill through the spot welds in the cavity on either side and plug weld to the reinforcemnt plate underneat around the threaded portion of the rear mounts. The front mount, they just wanted teh factory mig welds ground down and rewelded and cracked repaired there.
-
So, Scotty, how do the Redish V3 interact with the mounting location? I can see they're boxing the location and tying it to the frame rail, but what about the stud and spot welds? Does this kit also convert to a bolt mount similar to Vince or CMP?
Leave a comment:
-
I have two rivet Vincebar kits laying around. I planned to DIY the install, but my soul lacks the motivation to drop the subframe and cut up the car. I imagine shops would charge a crazy amount to install. Pain.
Leave a comment:
-
Yes, this is very typical damage. And damage that is most often missed as people don’t know to look there, not to mention don’t clean these areasOriginally posted by enjoy_m3 View Post
Just to add, I don't think many people know how much of an issue this is on the e46 chassis so here's some pics of mine when I did my vincebar after bottom plates were already added. Failed spot welds that are almost un-noticeable or hidden under seam sealer. My subframe mount cracks were much smaller than yours too. The right way is to take off all the seam sealer where George mentioned because the stress will transfer to panel edges will pull down on the RACP at the edges due to weak design. I drilled, fill-weld the failed spot welds and stitch welded the seams of the RACP at the trunk and wheel wells in addition to the vincebar. Pretty labor intensive but I recommend doing this when doing your rear RACP reinforcement. This is my interpretation of true reinforced RACP.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Likes 1
Leave a comment:
-
The VinceBar, both the original “stealth” and the newer “simplified” designs are completely hidden under the interior and out of the way.Originally posted by MTiz View PostThe CMP Beam kit has been out of stock for a while and I don't want the intrusive VinceBar. I look forward to seeing pictures of the Redish V3 Kit
Here’s the simplified design pictured

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Likes 1
Leave a comment:
-
For anyone interested, the second picture clearly illustrates why I designed the VinceSkinz the way I did.Originally posted by scotty737 View PostI dropped my subframe today and did a quick clean and found cracks at the front two mounting points. The rear mounts looked fine. For the larger crack, it is just a drill the ends and weld correct?
Going to do a deep clean tomorrow and check the spot welds around the wheel wells.
For reference: 2006 with 92.5k miles
Please have a look at this video, 12 minutes in I show the right front mount and skin https://youtu.be/ucBL4y7LoL0

Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by VinceSE2; 09-17-2021, 08:25 AM.
Leave a comment:
-
I finished up the paint/underbody stuff tonight. I tried to replicate the factory "overspray" and now just have a dusted blue trunk. I kinda wish I left it the ecoat color, but it is supposed to be blue. When it dried, the color ended up being appropriate(ignore the white specs from my masking plastic).Last edited by scotty737; 09-09-2021, 04:00 PM.
- Likes 1
Leave a comment:
-
Definitely remove your gas tank. It partially covers one of the mounts. Also, gasoline + welding sparks is not a good combination
Leave a comment:
-
Also wondering why the majority of folks don't appear to use the Bimmerworld kit? https://www.bimmerworld.com/About-Us...ent-Kit_2.html
The kit is reasonably priced and addresses both top and bottom like the Reddish V3 kit unless I'm mistaken. Any feedback on this would be appreciated.
Leave a comment:
-
scotty737 - Did you have to remove your gas tank to have the plates welded?
Leave a comment:
-
Yea I mean my car was (is?) a big pile of shit that I way over paid for, and have been suffering through fixing up over the last 3 years. I am in so far I will never come close to getting my money back, so may as well keep it and enjoy it... Money is just a social construct anyway. :P
- Likes 2
Leave a comment:
-
I've deferred it for quite some time. I have 110k on the clock, bought the car with 86k in 2010, and have really just done maintenance most of the way. VANOS and cooling was the first big project because that could be immediately catastrophic without warning. Mine is a transition build early 2003.5, and as it turned out I didn't actually have the HP DME, so I'm worried I don't have the updated bearings either and haven't really driven more than a few hundred miles since I learned that.
Car is going in for bearings on Friday, and hoping to deal with the subframe in the spring so I can actually start driving it without worrying. Yeah, I'll probably be into this car for close to $30k, but it's probably worth every bit of that with the big 3 done and a good build spec.
Leave a comment:
-
Yeah, I deferred this job for 4 years. Spent a lot of time/money modding. I wouldn’t say I regret doing that, but I should have done this sooner. I wasn’t ready to tackle this type of job 4 years ago. Bearings and cooling system are next. Vanos was done right after I got the car. Should be good for a long time after this work is completed.
Leave a comment:

Leave a comment: