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Subframe Dropped and cracks found

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  • scotty737
    replied
    Originally posted by LVMESM46 View Post
    scotty737 I really appreciate you posting this. I also received the Redish V3 plates and was curious of the differences.

    So would you say this is as good as the Vince bar or CMP bar?
    I think the Vincebar and cmp are a much stronger solution. Although the reddish instructions said that this reinforcement is essentially what the e9x platform has. I have faith in it, but time will tell. I’m sure everyone will say it isn’t the solution and Vincebar/cmp is the only way lol.

    If it fails in the future, I will look into something else but for now I’m considering it reinforced.

    Leave a comment:


  • lvm3sm46
    replied
    scotty737 I really appreciate you posting this. I also received the Redish V3 plates and was curious of the differences.

    So would you say this is as good as the Vince bar or CMP bar?

    Leave a comment:


  • jet_dogg
    replied
    I was curious if there was any visual cues that's all. I don't trust those things anyway.

    Leave a comment:


  • scotty737
    replied
    Originally posted by jet_dogg View Post

    I don't believe a visual inspection is a a tell all analysis but appreciate the info.
    Well obviously, but how else would you do analysis on a piece of rubber? I am certainly not in the business of inspecting bushings. I didn’t really care what they looked liked because I was replacing them. I would assume they’re shot after 15 years and 93k miles.

    Leave a comment:


  • jet_dogg
    replied
    Originally posted by scotty737 View Post

    I replaced them, but they looked fine when removed. No cracking or anything.
    I don't believe a visual inspection is a a tell all analysis but appreciate the info.

    Leave a comment:


  • scotty737
    replied
    Originally posted by jet_dogg View Post

    Are your subframe bushings shot?
    I replaced them, but they looked fine when removed. No cracking or anything. I’m sure they were worn though.
    Last edited by scotty737; 09-06-2021, 05:15 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jet_dogg
    replied
    Originally posted by scotty737 View Post
    Waited for my welder to show for about a month, but he completed the job this weekend. Here is a picture of how the "V3" differs from the v2. It directly connects the chassis leg to the RACP. The part that is just tacked is a cover and not structural.
    Click image for larger version Name:	image1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	87.9 KB ID:	125077 Click image for larger version Name:	image0.jpg Views:	0 Size:	99.2 KB ID:	125078
    Are your subframe bushings shot?

    Leave a comment:


  • scotty737
    replied
    Waited for my welder to show for about a month, but he completed the job this weekend. Here is a picture of how the "V3" differs from the v2. It directly connects the chassis leg to the RACP. The part that is just tacked is a cover and not structural.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	87.9 KB ID:	125077 Click image for larger version  Name:	image0.jpg Views:	0 Size:	99.2 KB ID:	125078

    Leave a comment:


  • scotty737
    replied
    Originally posted by enjoy_m3 View Post

    Just to add, I don't think many people know how much of an issue this is on the e46 chassis so here's some pics of mine when I did my vincebar after bottom plates were already added. Failed spot welds that are almost un-noticeable or hidden under seam sealer. My subframe mount cracks were much smaller than yours too. The right way is to take off all the seam sealer where George mentioned because the stress will transfer to panel edges will pull down on the RACP at the edges due to weak design. I drilled, fill-weld the failed spot welds and stitch welded the seams of the RACP at the trunk and wheel wells in addition to the vincebar. Pretty labor intensive but I recommend doing this when doing your rear RACP reinforcement. This is my interpretation of true reinforced RACP.
    Yeah, I have some busted spot welds there. Will get those plugged and stitched.

    Leave a comment:


  • scotty737
    replied
    Here is the rear plate set up. The plates under the rear seat area are essentially just covers. Here is some of the instruction set for the rear plates. Look similar to the vorshlag offering by attaching to the chassis legs. then there is another plate on top that ties into these.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • jet_dogg
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    Me?
    By some act of God I was able to find it quickly, props to the excellent search function guys.

    Group buy link: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1F...Jxrsg/viewform (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSejTveifbLy64uNULJlw9mbRoPC9FkzB4z77zsijWNsNJxrsg/viewform) So, some chassis stiffness context. The e46 sedan was offered with or without fold through seats. If you didn't get fold through seats, there was a metal

    Leave a comment:


  • Thonas
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post

    Most will say no as it only addresses the rear points, but doesn't tie them into the rails.

    I would say the correct answer is, "maybe." For me, as a DIYer, for $500, I put in a DMG rear brace to supplement my stiffer bushings and plates. I believe it will be sufficient for the rear, and I like tying the shock towers together. You immediately feel the increased rigidity. I do want to do front cups, however, but no rush.
    I have the front Vince cups going in when I do the repair/reinforcement.

    Leave a comment:


  • jet_dogg
    replied
    Think it was petrol m3, pff don't think I'll be able to find the post.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Me?

    Leave a comment:


  • jet_dogg
    replied
    There was a member here who has the rear dmg brace, forgot which, and said increase in rigidity was dramatic so I bought one as well. I've yet to install so we'll see.

    Leave a comment:

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