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Ohlins R&T Spring/Sway Choice

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  • Mayan-Viking
    replied
    Originally posted by LVMESM46 View Post

    Thats what you are going to leave us with? What would you go with instead?
    Yeah. Was thinking the same. Just when I thought I had this issue sorted...

    Leave a comment:


  • lvm3sm46
    replied
    Originally posted by cobra View Post

    I wouldn't buy the konis again.
    Thats what you are going to leave us with? What would you go with instead?

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    Originally posted by Mayan-Viking View Post

    That's what I was wondering exactly. I have the settings written down. Thanks much!
    I wouldn't buy the konis again.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mayan-Viking
    replied
    Originally posted by r4dr View Post

    Same exact dampers. Search around for the Dinan settings on here, they're posted somewhere. Save yourself some cash.
    That's what I was wondering exactly. I have the settings written down. Thanks much!

    Leave a comment:


  • r4dr
    replied
    Originally posted by Mayan-Viking View Post

    Thank you for that, I didn't know Dinan qualified as flat ride. Glad I know that. Just when I thought my decision was made (Dinan + Koni Yellow) I find these. Does anyone know how these shocks (tuned by Dinan and 2X in price) compare to the standard Koni Yellows when matched with Dinan springs? Specifically, are they twice as good?

    Thanks for everyone's help with knowledge sharing thus far.

    Same exact dampers. Search around for the Dinan settings on here, they're posted somewhere. Save yourself some cash.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mayan-Viking
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    Dinan's springs are flat ride with zero effort.

    I think you may think flat ride is something different than it is-- flatride is having higher frequencies in the rear than the front.
    Thank you for that, I didn't know Dinan qualified as flat ride. Glad I know that. Just when I thought my decision was made (Dinan + Koni Yellow) I find these. Does anyone know how these shocks (tuned by Dinan and 2X in price) compare to the standard Koni Yellows when matched with Dinan springs? Specifically, are they twice as good?

    Thanks for everyone's help with knowledge sharing thus far.


    Leave a comment:


  • K-Dawg
    replied
    I went from 550/600 to 300/600 (by simply swapping the front TCK 550s with TCK 300s, no other changes) and comfort is significantly improved. The car is far more settled, so handling feels better also. The front is a little lower with the 300s vs the 550s, so I need to make some adjustments to get ride height back up where it was.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sid_E46
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    I mean, if you used 1000 lb front springs and 2000 lbs rear springs it wouldn't be

    Flat ride is generally more comfortable, in comparable setups.
    What would you say is a good street spring rate for a flat ride on TCK DAs?

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by Sid_E46 View Post

    Is a flat ride necessarily more comfortable on the street?
    I mean, if you used 1000 lb front springs and 2000 lbs rear springs it wouldn't be

    Flat ride is generally more comfortable, in comparable setups.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sid_E46
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    Dinan's springs are flat ride with zero effort.

    I think you may think flat ride is something different than it is-- flatride is having higher frequencies in the rear than the front.
    Is a flat ride necessarily more comfortable on the street?

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by Mayan-Viking View Post
    I have had this same question on flat ride for some time. I think it looks great. But I don't know what the supposed benefits are. So I don't know how to find out whether the costs associated with this setup are worth with the benefits. Further insight would be much appreciated.

    Edit: I found the answer in another thread. I'd like to ask the question differently because I'm curious and I love to ponder about things that don't let me sleep some times. I am intending to order order Dinan/Koni in the coming days. In real world street only applications where roads are generally very acceptable is going flat ride worth the effort?

    Pandora's box...
    Dinan's springs are flat ride with zero effort.

    I think you may think flat ride is something different than it is-- flatride is having higher frequencies in the rear than the front.

    Leave a comment:


  • LSBNick
    replied
    I have Ohlins R&T waiting to go on. Are the GC plates you run the stock spring diameter with 14mm studs?

    Leave a comment:


  • Mayan-Viking
    replied
    I have had this same question on flat ride for some time. I think it looks great. But I don't know what the supposed benefits are. So I don't know how to find out whether the costs associated with this setup are worth with the benefits. Further insight would be much appreciated.

    Edit: I found the answer in another thread. I'd like to ask the question differently because I'm curious and I love to ponder about things that don't let me sleep some times. I am intending to order order Dinan/Koni in the coming days. In real world street only applications where roads are generally very acceptable is going flat ride worth the effort?

    Pandora's box...
    Last edited by Mayan-Viking; 10-17-2021, 11:04 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • cobra
    replied
    I still don't understand flat ride, and not trying to bash it I just genuinely want to learn. Are oem's specifically targeting these frequencies because it's good from a performance standpoint, or because it's required to meet other requirements? For example in the m3 they have to account for 4 passengers and a trunk full of luggage. A pickup truck is a worst case example of this- they ride like shit in stock form because they're compromised to meet so many other objectives.

    When discussing flat ride I see two things mentioned- that many oems use this ratio, and also that it will settle the front and rear at the same rate due to the wheelbase offset. This will really only be correct at a certain speed over a certain singular event and more or less irrelevant in real world driving conditions.

    The only really compelling thing I see about it is with relation to removing the sway bars, otherwise known as grip removers. I see that as a potentially good thing and something most people don't talk about as much, maybe because it's more complex to think about than springs with very obvious rates.

    Seems to me that ohlins selected springs to achieve a balanced ride frequency which will be better from a performance standpoint with a single driver. The rates are not particularly high either, but it also comes down to personal preference.

    I'm really really curious to ride in obiobans m3 or a similarly set up m3, too bad we live on opposite sides of the country lol.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Stock fronts are 8". 7" - depends, if you try a 400# spring, it does not require as much preload to support that corner's weight and get you to proper ride height so it will not get the perch above tire, if you try 325#, it requires a lot more preload and will get the perch up high and since you have 3dm spacer you should be fine with a soft 325/336 spring. For springs I also looked at Swift/Hyperco brands.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:

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