There's a comprehensive SMG to Manual thread somewhere which lists the parts. By using a self-centering shifter you don't need to machine the bell housing so the specific parts for the OEM manual gear stick can be omitted.
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Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View PostIf you understand this one key thing, it will save you a lot of headache - all these shifters (IRP, CAE, Coolerworx, RTD, etc) are self centering, but they are not all appropriate for the smg car without bell housing machining.
Self centering, basically means it has 1 main super strong torsion spring that will yank the lever into N between 3/4. That is all that self centering means.
What do you do about all the other gates, R, 1/2, 5/6, how do you define them, that by moving the top of the lever 0.5inches to the left, you will be in 1/2 gate, vs moving it 1inch to the left you will be in R gate...
Well, the R gate you can solve with the locking mechanism they offer (most refer to it as a "lockout", which is a metal ring that sits just under the knob that operates a cable that pulls out the pin, which then allows you to move the shifter way left to get to R gate), which I suggest you get. Without it, plenty of stories of driving spiritedly and trying to shift from 3 to 2, yanking on the lever too hard to the left and instead of landing in 1/2 gate you get all the way over to R.
The other gate definitions like 1/2, 5/6 are what the bell housing machining does for you with the added detents. Without it, you will just be on a Microsoft flight simulator joystick (exaggeration).
There is a solution to that problem and it is the self centering shifters that have gate definitions, i.e little pins/screws that you can adjust. Not all of them have it... For example if you look at the Coolerworx street/short version, it does not have those, while the Pro version does. CAE does, I don't believe IRP or RTD have them. (random pic of CAE pins below as example).
The ones without reverse lockouts or the adjustment pins/screws are smaller and more compact and do not require trimming console pieces.
I am not here to rank shifters for you, I am here to arm you with some info to help you with your ultimate decision.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I've seen a couple of videos on YouTube where they converted an smg car and didn't even drop the transmission. I'll be putting in a new clutch, I figure since its coming out anyways might as well put a 3rd pedal in.
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I don't feel any difference in effort or feel in shift quality between the RTD and the CAE. It's just nice to have the stops for the added security that you are at the right gate and will engage the gear you want providing the synchro rings are playing ball.
Monumentally more work to fit the CAE though.
Regards
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Originally posted by ra2fanatic View Post
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Originally posted by SandeepM3 View Post
I thought the RTD did have gate adjustment. Just not as refined to be able to stop how far to the side it can go when the reverse lockout is engaged. This is the pic I saw where I got that from.
Regards
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Originally posted by SandeepM3 View PostOhh I like that cover!
Does the small version not require you to cut the trim? I cant tell if you shifter trim it cut, but I cant close my coin tray cover so something is different.
It still requires you to cut the trim. It has the tiniest of notches out of the tray, but once closed, it's closed, so no using it at all.
Originally posted by loudspeaker69 View PostHow much effort increased when going to a CAE shifter ?
Just wondering if anyone has tried both the long and the short version to explain the effort increases ?
i.e. 40% reduction in throw increases effort by 40% (typically)
Also - is the side to side play in the gate eliminated with the CAE ?
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How much effort increased when going to a CAE shifter ?
Just wondering if anyone has tried both the long and the short version to explain the effort increases ?
i.e. 40% reduction in throw increases effort by 40% (typically)
Also - is the side to side play in the gate eliminated with the CAE ?
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Ohh I like that cover!
Does the small version not require you to cut the trim? I cant tell if you shifter trim it cut, but I cant close my coin tray cover so something is different.
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Originally posted by Mr.wReckless View PostFor those who might still be interested and following. This 1/2 and 5/6 gate from the CAE version had me intrigued, so much I treated myself to one and express shipped it to me this week. Will install tomorrow.
Quality is really good, but to be expected, but I don't think RTD's version is any less so, the main difference is CAE is aluminium and RTD steel. RTD is a MUCH easier install though, and RTD I got with a metal head, whereas the CAE is some sort of plastic thing (not pictured btw).
Why CAE isn't pushing the adjustable gate side to their product is beyond me, it's pretty much unique to have this much adjustability:
Full size CAE vs "street size" RTD. Not crazy different, but I think I should have gotten the shorter CAE version, but at the time of ordering (1 am), I for some reason thought only the long version had the gate adjustability. Hey ho.. I'll survive.
RTD now for sale btw.
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For those who might still be interested and following. This 1/2 and 5/6 gate from the CAE version had me intrigued, so much I treated myself to one and express shipped it to me this week. Will install tomorrow.
Quality is really good, but to be expected, but I don't think RTD's version is any less so, the main difference is CAE is aluminium and RTD steel. RTD is a MUCH easier install though, and RTD I got with a metal head, whereas the CAE is some sort of plastic thing (not pictured btw).
Why CAE isn't pushing the adjustable gate side to their product is beyond me, it's pretty much unique to have this much adjustability:
Full size CAE vs "street size" RTD. Not crazy different, but I think I should have gotten the shorter CAE version, but at the time of ordering (1 am), I for some reason thought only the long version had the gate adjustability. Hey ho.. I'll survive.
RTD now for sale btw.
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Originally posted by Mr.wReckless View PostMy biggest gripe with this (and I'm not sure it's with RTD or with the BMW getrag gearbox) is from 3rd to 2nd. The 1/2 gate can be a bit finicky as it's very easy to move the stick too far left, but because you're pressing backwards there's absolutely 0 chance of hitting R.
For reference, my car is a factory manual and I've noticed this on all of these setups:
- Factory linkage + worn bushings
- 330d shifter + refreshed bushings
- AutoSolutions Autocross SSK
When driving normally, it's easy to avoid, as shifting times are usually slower (so it's harder to overshoot the 1/2 gate). But when driving spiritedly or on track, downshifting into second is a bit of a pain. Maybe what my car desperately needs is a driver mod instead of any more linkage/trans mods lol.
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Originally posted by lapoune View PostI have a RTD and CAE on different cars and they both work well on track cars but a good stock\autosolution shifter is sooo much better for street use I would really try doing the conversion properly if I were you. Never driven a car without detents so can't help there.
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Having recently done the Manual swap with an RTD shifter I was swayed by the "no cutting interior" parts. It's a nicely made shifter. I'm not struggling to find the gates, though the lack of "gates" does add some level of finesse and getting used to. Reverse isn't really an issue as it's far to the left and only an issue for when you are (should be) static and are looking for 1st but wander too far and find R.
The self centering spring is nicely judged, and unless you're doing something really dumb like power shifting I can't see how you'd money shift this from 2nd to 1st, but I guess you could if you try really hard. My biggest gripe with this (and I'm not sure it's with RTD or with the BMW getrag gearbox) is from 3rd to 2nd. The 1/2 gate can be a bit finicky as it's very easy to move the stick too far left, but because you're pressing backwards there's absolutely 0 chance of hitting R. I've found moving the stick left and "aiming for the right rear passenger seat" with my elbow usually lands the shifter very nicely in 2nd. 2nd to 3rd is extremely satisfying with the way the shifter centers and pops so nicely into 3rd, it's basically just placing the knob in the palm of your hand and a gentle push forward.
Curious about this CAE with lockouts/gates now, as it would certainly fix my 1 gripe with the RTD, yet introduce cutting the console up. The Kinematic version only has a gate all the way over for R so doesn't seem to solve my gripe with the RTD shifter. Also the CAE is rather expensive if you're also going for a DSSR.
Regards
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Originally posted by meowth View PostLack of reviews/forum members running it adds some questionability
unfortunately it seems like social media has replaced the forums when it comes to debuting new mods for most cars
i didn't know DCT swaps were such a common thing for the E46 M3 until i got onto car social media
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