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Suspension & Brakes E46M platform.

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  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Originally posted by jvit27 View Post
    Sometimes I agree with you, other times I don't - and this is one of those times you seem way off the mark. You're just 'upgrading' for the sake of upgrading without keeping OP's use-case in mind.

    There's no need to convert PSS10 springs to a linear setup for most people, and Ohlins are not a fundamentally better setup for an extra $1000. Yes i've owned both, and for a street car i'd prefer the PSS10 to an MCS. The Ohlins just aren't the best for this car. Sorry but the premium damper hype is grossly overrated for anything but track use, and should not be the defacto recommendation. And flat ride is not nearly as important as valving. It's hilarious to see people saying keep stock brakes (MEH at best) but not suggesting that Eibach/Koni is the perfect suspension solution for this guy.

    I'd much rather see the 996 kit be recommended because it will even improve ride quality due to the decrease in unsprung weight. Don't know why $3000-6000 dampers that will be exactly what he doesn't want should even be part of this discussion.. jfc.
    1. My rec for OP and newer owners was my first post. The post about PSS10 wasn't for OP specifically. I post with posterity and others in mind. The point was, do stock replacement or get high quality parts and skip the mid tier stuff.

    2. One ride in my car or anyone with MCS would immediately change your mind. I got tired of konis and bilsteins. Pss10s would require a minimum of $700 in camber plates and springs for me. Ohlins $500 in plates. I wanted to pick my own rates and re-use some hardware, and a damper that could keep up. MCS were the right choice for me.

    I don't care if you agree with me or not. Not sure why you even bothered singling my posts out.

    Leave a comment:


  • jvit27
    replied
    PSS10 are progressive rates of 340/565

    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    Either spend $1k on bilstein b6s & dinan/eibachs or spend $3k+ on MCS/ohlins/FCM.

    Best brakes for this car are stock.
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    PSS10s are great, but with drawbacks. I'd do it if you get linear springs (60mm) and thinner mounts (plates like vorshlag, gc, tms). But then you're at Ohlins pricing so....
    Sometimes I agree with you, other times I don't - and this is one of those times you seem way off the mark. You're just 'upgrading' for the sake of upgrading without keeping OP's use-case in mind.

    There's no need to convert PSS10 springs to a linear setup for most people, and Ohlins are not a fundamentally better setup for an extra $1000. Yes i've owned both, and for a street car i'd prefer the PSS10 to an MCS. The Ohlins just aren't the best for this car. Sorry but the premium damper hype is grossly overrated for anything but track use, and should not be the defacto recommendation. And flat ride is not nearly as important as valving. It's hilarious to see people saying keep stock brakes (MEH at best) but not suggesting that Eibach/Koni is the perfect suspension solution for this guy.

    I'd much rather see the 996 kit be recommended because it will even improve ride quality due to the decrease in unsprung weight. Don't know why $3000-6000 dampers that will be exactly what he doesn't want should even be part of this discussion.. jfc.

    Leave a comment:


  • zzyzx85
    replied
    Originally posted by eXpensiveGears View Post

    Thanks! One more Q, are the AP's just too track focused for anything other than 100% track car?
    They can work on the street but they will likely be noisier and need to be bled more often since they lack dust boots to keep the brake dust out of the brake fluid. The selection of street compound pads might not be as wide as what's available for other calipers as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • eXpensiveGears
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    I'd go GT.
    Thanks! One more Q, are the AP's just too track focused for anything other than 100% track car?

    Leave a comment:


  • JeremyJames
    replied
    Originally posted by maw1124 View Post

    This^^^ 996 Turbos and R8s are what they are for a reason… suspensions and brakes included… an E46M is never gonna be that… full stop… relax and enjoy your ride for what it is AND for what it isn’t… this car isn’t lacking braking or bling… enjoy.
    I understand your input. But if I have reached the point of needing to refresh my suspension, I want to do it the right way. Refresh stock is the best option? Perfect. Or use that money to upgrade without downgrading anything, perfect. Reaching out for the best advice on this. I don’t know Jack about suspension and I don’t have a handful of M3s with different set ups to try out. Still down this rabbit hole of what I want to do.

    Same thing with brakes, if I don’t compromise or sacrifice performance and only gain brake power with the ability to handle heavy heat as well, then perfect.

    My intentions are not to change the car, or make it something that it isn’t, but rather calibrate, if that makes sense - kinda like a carbon air box and headers. Is the stock plastic air box effective and capable of handling more power? Absolutely. But that carbon box is a sweet calibration to the S54 and what it really is, but does it change what the car is? My vision is aligned with this the same for suspension in brakes. Both very important, both very good already.
    Last edited by JeremyJames; 10-01-2021, 07:13 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • maw1124
    replied
    Originally posted by Estoril View Post
    Leave it stock. Pretty much most of what you wrote says you want things for their appearance - not that you are addressing any shortcoming. If you want bling calipers - then buy bling calipers for the bling.

    If some day you go to the track - then wait until your hardware begins to limit you before changing anything.
    This^^^ 996 Turbos and R8s are what they are for a reason… suspensions and brakes included… an E46M is never gonna be that… full stop… relax and enjoy your ride for what it is AND for what it isn’t… this car isn’t lacking braking or bling… enjoy.

    maw

    Leave a comment:


  • JayVee
    replied
    Bilstein B12 pro kit. I just installed the kit this summer on my weekend-driven 2004 M3 and chose it for the exact same reasons you listed. A nice, but reasonable drop in the wheel gap and to restores the car's handling without sacrificing ride, the car feels extremely planted. I had 130,000 on stock suspension and it was time to refresh. I highly recommend this kit. It's a mix of Bilstein's B8 dampers (Same as, but shorter than B6 to account for lowering springs) and Eibach Progressive matched springs. I was between these and the Koni Yellow's with the adjustable rebound but ultimately decided the Bilstein's track tuning would really give them an edge. It's not jarring or crash-y. I can tell the springs are stiffer than stock, but it handles bumps very well.

    TL;DR: Get the B12 pro kit. Restores the stock, well-planted feel without being too harsh or low for a daily. Highly recommend.

    Feel free to ask any questions.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by eXpensiveGears View Post

    Thanks! Thoughts on GT's vs GT-R's?
    I'd go GT.

    Leave a comment:


  • eXpensiveGears
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    Yes.
    Thanks! Thoughts on GT's vs GT-R's?

    Leave a comment:


  • Nate047
    replied
    I've got Bilsteion B6s and Eibach springs on my car, it's great for a street setup and I would not hesitate to track it like this either. You have to think about the car as a whole package, and consider what you're going to use it for before buying parts. I have some KW Clubsports sitting around and TBH I'm kind of hesitant to jump down the rabbit hole because I like how the car drives already. I overshot my goals with my E36 by going stiffer with everything and I don't want to do the same thing again.

    Brake pads are super subjective and there's a lot to pick from. I would just try a few and see what you like. Try the PFC street pads for starters and go up from there.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Might be on non M or e36 or something but only B4, B6, B6+eibach (previously h&r) as "B12", and B16 (pss10) for e46 m3.

    Leave a comment:


  • TexaZ3
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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    Originally posted by K-Dawg View Post
    B12 uses B6 dampers in the E46 M3 application. B8 is (unfortunately) not available for the E46 M3.
    Interesting. I thought B12 was only available with B8.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Originally posted by TexaZ3 View Post

    Bilstein B8s, not B6s. Eibachs and Dinan springs are lowering springs, B6 are designed to be used with stock height springs. B8s are for lowering springs (shorter stock and internal bump stop).
    Bilstein B12 Pro kit (which is essentially B8s + Eibach springs) is absolutely the best budget suspension that is way better than stock.
    Ya we don't get b8s

    Leave a comment:


  • K-Dawg
    replied
    B12 uses B6 dampers in the E46 M3 application. B8 is (unfortunately) not available for the E46 M3.

    Leave a comment:


  • TexaZ3
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    Unless I'm reading wrong, that like says what I just said-- decreased droop travel, no mention of increased bump travel:
    "The B8 is designed to be used exclusively with lowering springs or vehicles that are fitted with a lowered suspension from the manufacturer like Mercedes AMG models.

    Lowering springs are shorter than OE springs. When you fit springs to the damper they need to compressed slightly so they are fitted tight on the damper. This is called pre tension. Without pre tension the spring could dislocate while driving which could result in losing control of the vehicle and a nasty accident."

    That is what the B12 comes with, agreed-- I also don't think the B12s are a very good setup, at least without other modifications also made to the car.
    All I'm saying is that when you look at B6 and B8 next to each other, B8 is shorter, physically. I really don't know if the stock is the same length, and all it is just adjustment in travel/bump, but - if you use B6 with lowering springs, the shock would not operate in optimal range, due to being compressed more at rest because of the shorter springs. That is why when you use lowering springs, you should only use B8.

    I have not tried more expensive/sophisticated setups, but compared to what my car had stock, B12 kit is an absolute night and day difference and for the price is a very nice upgrade over stock. I had it on the car for over a year, and have nothing but good things to say about this setup - everything else is stock.

    Leave a comment:

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