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Is my diff completely done?

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  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by Mattn1192 View Post
    Question regarding shaft. Marked red, does a lock ring go there? Marked blue, does a seal go there or a bearing?
    The pic in your post shows there is plenty of splines remain for a normal car operation. The groove is for the locking ring to snap on for detent, and the highlighted area is for the oil seal. There is no bearing riding on the flange. Clean all metal bits and you are good to go.

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  • Mattn1192
    replied
    Originally posted by sapote View Post
    So 2.8mm of ground off splines, how much remain of good spline? If more than 3/4” then it should work fine
    31.39mm (1.235 in).

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  • Mattn1192
    replied
    Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post

    And that blurred out workspace surrounding that cleaned up flange looks like I could be happy there for a long, long time!
    I sure hope so.

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  • Mattn1192
    replied
    Question regarding shaft. Marked red, does a lock ring go there? Marked blue, does a seal go there or a bearing?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • sapote
    replied
    So 2.8mm of ground off splines, how much remain of good spline? If more than 3/4” then it should work fine

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  • sapote
    replied
    Keep in mind that a new shaft already has the spline end chamfered off, so the actual ground off is less than that.

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  • Mattn1192
    replied
    Originally posted by sapote View Post
    From the pic it seem the ground off splines is more than 1mm that I said in previous post -- you must have spin the right wheel on ice for too long
    There is still plenty of splines on the shaft for a proper torque transfer. Can you tell by looking at the wear mark of how deep the splines mating, then compare to see how much it had ground down. Small percent ground section is not a big issue.
    2.78mm (0.11 in) of damage on shaft to be exact.

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  • Mattn1192
    replied
    Originally posted by t3ddftw View Post

    I'm curious about what you used to clean it up without marring it? Looks great !

    -Ted
    filed the splines a bit to clean them up, sand blaster, scotchbrite, and polishing paper.

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  • Casa de Mesa
    replied
    Originally posted by t3ddftw View Post

    I'm curious about what you used to clean it up without marring it? Looks great !

    -Ted
    And that blurred out workspace surrounding that cleaned up flange looks like I could be happy there for a long, long time!

    Leave a comment:


  • t3ddftw
    replied
    Originally posted by Mattn1192 View Post
    Cleaned up the shaft a bit.
    I'm curious about what you used to clean it up without marring it? Looks great !

    -Ted

    Leave a comment:


  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by Mattn1192 View Post
    Better pic
    From the pic it seem the ground off splines is more than 1mm that I said in previous post -- you must have spin the right wheel on ice for too long
    There is still plenty of splines on the shaft for a proper torque transfer. Can you tell by looking at the wear mark of how deep the splines mating, then compare to see how much it had ground down. Small percent ground section is not a big issue.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mattn1192
    replied
    Cleaned up the shaft a bit.
    Attached Files

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  • Mattn1192
    replied
    Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post
    Man, I don't know what your budget is, but I'd be looking for a full rebuild or a swap if it were me. Thats not a ton of metal in the case from the drive flange, but it's really hard to tell if those splines are damaged on the inside as well. I don't have enough experience with these diffs (or really any diffs in a situation like this) to make a solid recommendation for you, I'm hoping others on the forum may have some thoughts.

    You might be able to get by with a new drive flange and a really good flush of the fluid, but I just don't know if you've significantly compromised the longevity of the other parts inside that pumpkin. It would suck to throw some parts at it, button everything back up, and then a few thousand or few hundred miles down the road end up having to pull everything back out again...
    I feel you on that. It’s not a daily so I’ll sit on it and make a decision soon enough. I was thinking about taking the back cover off to see how the inside looks after I dump the fluid inside. Would prob give me a better idea as to how things are looking in there.

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  • Casa de Mesa
    replied
    Man, I don't know what your budget is, but I'd be looking for a full rebuild or a swap if it were me. Thats not a ton of metal in the case from the drive flange, but it's really hard to tell if those splines are damaged on the inside as well. I don't have enough experience with these diffs (or really any diffs in a situation like this) to make a solid recommendation for you, I'm hoping others on the forum may have some thoughts.

    You might be able to get by with a new drive flange and a really good flush of the fluid, but I just don't know if you've significantly compromised the longevity of the other parts inside that pumpkin. It would suck to throw some parts at it, button everything back up, and then a few thousand or few hundred miles down the road end up having to pull everything back out again...

    Leave a comment:


  • Mattn1192
    replied
    Best pics I can get. metal shavings between splines is present.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

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