Getting Torque Wrench on diff Bolts?

[George Hill]

Do you also have the solid cmp subframe bushings? Your photo looks like there is way more clearance than I have on my car.

Couldn't find stubby etorx sockets. I've thought about just getting regular bolts from mcmaster for this reason.

You probably didn't see my reply, but this is no plates and original bushings. But I have used this socket and torque wrench or (my Matco ratchet) exclusively for a decade+ and never had one I couldn't torque.

[eacmen]

Its the head of your ratchet... its huge. I have a couple different ratchets/torque wrenches and they are tight, but fit.

I've also found some sockets are longer than others, this one is a snap-on, fyi.

Do you also have the solid cmp subframe bushings? Your photo looks like there is way more clearance than I have on my car.

Couldn't find stubby etorx sockets. I've thought about just getting regular bolts from mcmaster for this reason.

[George Hill]

This is definitely a huge variable and great point, I'll see if I can get my techangle up there with the CMP's and test some bluepoint and snap on sockets with it.

I hate not being able to properly torque it (in place) with CMP's, but those bushes are pretty nice overall.

This car doesn't have plates, it is stock rubber bushings as well, so should be similar (same) as CMP bushings and plates

[Cubieman]

Its the head of your ratchet... its huge. I have a couple different ratchets/torque wrenches and they are tight, but fit.

I've also found some sockets are longer than others, this one is a snap-on, fyi.

This is definitely a huge variable and great point, I'll see if I can get my techangle up there with the CMP's and test some bluepoint and snap on sockets with it.

I hate not being able to properly torque it (in place) with CMP's, but those bushes are pretty nice overall.

[George Hill]

Its the head of your ratchet... its huge. I have a couple different ratchets/torque wrenches and they are tight, but fit.

I've also found some sockets are longer than others, this one is a snap-on, fyi.

[bavarian3]

I haven't checked the front bolt since torqued, if done again I would use the larger one for sure, didn't know it was an option.

I have the car up on the lift currently, I'll check to see if the bolt is still torqued a report back if there's an issue. I would just give it a dab of blue loctite and you'll likely be fine in all honesty.

I'll go ahead and put a torque mark and keep an eye on it. Thanks.

[Cubieman]

Really appreciate it guys. Will use the socket cap and report back.

One question about the nord-lock washer. My front bolt threads are just fine afaik, I hand-threaded the bolt on without issue, will use loctite then torque to spec.

-Is the washer necessary? Are bolts really backing out on diffs that don't have thread issues.

-Sounds like the smaller diameter one is working fine? or would you all go with the enlarged version if doing it again?

I haven't checked the front bolt since torqued, if done again I would use the larger one for sure, didn't know it was an option.

I have the car up on the lift currently, I'll check to see if the bolt is still torqued a report back if there's an issue. I would just give it a dab of blue loctite and you'll likely be fine in all honesty.

[bavarian3]

socket cap and send it.

concur with this method

Nothing wrong with the socket cap method, just feel it out for initial torque and paint mark for approximate angle, it will be fine.

I found a piece of pipe from a rolling jack that could slide over the box end wrench l, this made the angle portion fairly easy, I have the same CMP bushes as you do.

Really appreciate it guys. Will use the socket cap and report back.

One question about the nord-lock washer. My front bolt threads are just fine afaik, I hand-threaded the bolt on without issue, will use loctite then torque to spec.

-Is the washer necessary? Are bolts really backing out on diffs that don't have thread issues.

-Sounds like the smaller diameter one is working fine? or would you all go with the enlarged version if doing it again?

[Cubieman]

Nothing wrong with the socket cap method, just feel it out for initial torque and paint mark for approximate angle, it will be fine.

I found a piece of pipe from a rolling jack that could slide over the box end wrench l, this made the angle portion fairly easy, I have the same CMP bushes as you do.

[eacmen]

socket cap and send it.

concur with this method

[oceansize]

socket cap and send it.

[bavarian3]

Not a happy camper as i'm ending up here the hard way. Was all excited to have my rear end back in looking all fancy with full refreshed parts...only to find out i can't get a torque wrench on the rear diff bolts.


I can actually get to front diff bolt just fine. This was because I removed the front bushing retainer so I could hand tighten the bolt on initially. All went smoothly there. So you all may just consider doing that as it's easy.








But the rear bolts, no chance I can get a wrench in there, much less a torque angle gauge...







Mother effer man....

So my options are to drop the buttoned up new e-brake lines and rtabs....carefully lower the subframe enough to get to the rear bolts, and hope that's stable enough to torque the rears.

ooor...

just use a socket cap with a box wrench and some loctite and send it...

[Cubieman]

not aware of anyone using these yet. i think you’re going to be the experiment.

you should paint mark it and inspect

I'll keep an eye on it, the larger washer would have been the way to go, I likely ended up in a wash (no pun).

I put a washer on with less surface area than the original but with more "grip".

[eacmen]

Only 2mm larger than factory washer, I'd sure like to get my car together and not wait another 4-5 days for new washers, but on the other hand want to get it right.

Did you use one of these and was it the standard or enlarged?

Edit; I used what I had (normal size nord lock + loctite 243) and I'll report back if it should loosen down the road.

not aware of anyone using these yet. i think you’re going to be the experiment.

you should paint mark it and inspect

[Cubieman]

od of enlarged washer is 30mm. Might be too big.

Only 2mm larger than factory washer, I'd sure like to get my car together and not wait another 4-5 days for new washers, but on the other hand want to get it right.

Did you use one of these and was it the standard or enlarged?

Edit; I used what I had (normal size nord lock + loctite 243) and I'll report back if it should loosen down the road.