Timing chain tensioner seal replacement

[tcp]

Would you please measure the overall length of your 32mm socket that worked for you?

That Husky socket is ~3.05 inches or ~77.5 mm deep according to my micrometer. A stubbier one would definitely give you more room. That one just barely fits and you're certainly not getting a torque wrench on it.

[y2k_o__o]

I have the exact same socket. It was the fourth one I bought. I have a lot of 32mm sockets. It still involved pushing up against the A/C line pretty hard and it wasn't easy. That insert is almost essential with an open ended torque wrench.

Would you please measure the overall length of your 32mm socket that worked for you?

[Slideways]

Sorry, was access from the top or bottom of the engine?

Top after removing the shroud

[ac427]

Yes. That socket setup will work, or if you have a fancy 3/8ths techangle, you can torque it to spec.

Sorry, was access from the top or bottom of the engine?

[Slideways]

Do you access to the timing chain tensioner from top of the car ?

and remove the shroud to access it?

Yes. That socket setup will work, or if you have a fancy 3/8ths techangle, you can torque it to spec.

[y2k_o__o]

Funny, I just changed my timing chain tensioner today.

I used a 32mm Husky deep socket I picked up from Home Depot and a "Square Drive Socket Cap" I picked up from Harbor Freight.

It's tight, but you can fit a wrench on the socket cap and get the tensioner in or out. Just note that you really can only use this for breaking the tensioner loose and tightening it. Once the tensioner is loose, you'll need to pull the socket off since there isn't enough room to back the tensioner all the way out with a wrench on the socket.



P.S. The socket cap + deep well socket approach is mentioned in the S54 VANOS thread here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-info-thread

Do you access to the timing chain tensioner from top of the car ?

and remove the shroud to access it?

[Sid_E46]

You've definitely got the best access to this that you'll ever have with the engine out of the car, so I would replace it. Undo the tensioner, make sure the sealing surfaces are nice (I usually run some red scotchbrite over them), replace the crush washer and reinstall.



Nah, should be fine to reuse. But make sure you follow the reuse instructions:

Never seen this before, is it a necessary step, and why so if anyone has that information?

[Casa de Mesa]

You've definitely got the best access to this that you'll ever have with the engine out of the car, so I would replace it. Undo the tensioner, make sure the sealing surfaces are nice (I usually run some red scotchbrite over them), replace the crush washer and reinstall.



Nah, should be fine to reuse. But make sure you follow the reuse instructions:

Thanks for this. Saved this for future reference!

[Casa de Mesa]

I don't see any oil leak from it, so replacing the washer gains you nothing but it might leak with the new one, just by Murphy's Law.

This is what I decided to do actually. It's fine at the moment and not leaking so...

[sapote]

My motor is currently out of the car. Is this something that should be done because it's $1.29 and"might as well"

I don't see any oil leak from it, so replacing the washer gains you nothing but it might leak with the new one, just by Murphy's Law.

[heinzboehmer]

My motor is currently out of the car. Is this something that should be done because it's $1.29 and"might as well"? And is this as simple as just backing out the tensioner and replacing the washer/gasket, and torquing to spec?

You've definitely got the best access to this that you'll ever have with the engine out of the car, so I would replace it. Undo the tensioner, make sure the sealing surfaces are nice (I usually run some red scotchbrite over them), replace the crush washer and reinstall.

Should the tensioner be replaced too?

Nah, should be fine to reuse. But make sure you follow the reuse instructions:

[Casa de Mesa]

My motor is currently out of the car. Is this something that should be done because it's $1.29 and"might as well"? And is this as simple as just backing out the tensioner and replacing the washer/gasket, and torquing to spec?

Last question

Should the tensioner be replaced too?

[Arith2]

I have the exact same socket. It was the fourth one I bought. I have a lot of 32mm sockets. It still involved pushing up against the A/C line pretty hard and it wasn't easy. That insert is almost essential with an open ended torque wrench.

[sapote]

but I still can't quite get a torque wrench in there so I just feel it out.

Same here. The problem is that if overtorque this could strip the soft female threads then super headache, and if under torqued then the washer might leak. To minimize leak, I will coat the washer with some Permatex gasket sealant next time.

[Cubieman]

I used an angle grinder on a deep socket just for this job, I guess it's a medium length socket now. Works well in conjunction with those socket caps but I still can't quite get a torque wrench in there so I just feel it out.