Preferred exhaust manifold studs?

[Cubieman]

Rgr that.

I know you have OCD when it comes to your M like I do Cubie. Tell me how you torqued all these nuts to spec with the engine in the car man Haha

Ha, that didn't happen for sure, one thing I wished I had was a ratcheting/articulating wrench for those nuts.

I've done headers twice now and found that with the Euro and SS's that the tool I used the most was a simple wrench, had it had a ratchet action that would have been helpful. The Euro headers did allow for more usage of a traditional socket wrench.

One thing I found is the nuts need to be tightened up again maybe after a couple hundred miles. None were loose by any means but there were a few that needed to be snugged back up. Probably not 100% necessary but it was the OCD thing.

If you want to snug them up maybe either re-use your brace plate bolts and install new bolts after snugging or don't angle torque your new brace plate bolts 1st time around as they aren't cheap.
You could always send them back via FCP as well, but I might feel bad sending them back so soon

[JeremyJames]

I put a block off plate/new gasket on for the SAP and then coded it out. Most definitely makes it look like something is missing in the engine bay but you get the race car weight savings!

Rgr that.

I know you have OCD when it comes to your M like I do Cubie. Tell me how you torqued all these nuts to spec with the engine in the car man Haha

[Cubieman]

Great advice on the compressed air. I’ve learned my lesson with this car, I have 2 back up vehicles for my daily so I can take my time with what SHOULD be a rather easy job. It never fails, I always need more parts than anticipated. I ended up ordering every single bolt, nut, and gasket OEM from head to section 2.

When you did your header install did you end up deleting your secondary air valve or did you just replace the gasket and call it a day?

Next is my Karbonius install. I finally got the 1x1 beauty from Spain just awaiting some CSL parts. Excited for that project.

I put a block off plate/new gasket on for the SAP and then coded it out. Most definitely makes it look like something is missing in the engine bay but you get the race car weight savings!

[JeremyJames]

The (N54) torx studs are easier to install into the head but as noted can make aftermarket header install harder more difficult.

Be very careful to not crossthread the studs, I would use compressed air to blow out the holes and start them all by hand.

A local mechanic recommend that I use a small amount of anti-seize on the studs to prevent galling but others on here have said to NOT put anti-seize on the stud but the on the nut.

Great advice on the compressed air. I’ve learned my lesson with this car, I have 2 back up vehicles for my daily so I can take my time with what SHOULD be a rather easy job. It never fails, I always need more parts than anticipated. I ended up ordering every single bolt, nut, and gasket OEM from head to section 2.

When you did your header install did you end up deleting your secondary air valve or did you just replace the gasket and call it a day?

Next is my Karbonius install. I finally got the 1x1 beauty from Spain just awaiting some CSL parts. Excited for that project.

[Cubieman]

The (N54) torx studs are easier to install into the head but as noted can make aftermarket header install harder more difficult.

Be very careful to not crossthread the studs, I would use compressed air to blow out the holes and start them all by hand.

A local mechanic recommend that I use a small amount of anti-seize on the studs to prevent galling but others on here have said to NOT put anti-seize on the stud but the on the nut.

[JeremyJames]

I used N54 studs. They work.

Absolutely perfect! That’s what I was wondering. They at least have the torx but looks like they’re 9mm longer.

I just purchased 18 of them NDA 11127593376.

Appreciate your feedback on this brother.

[Sharocks]

I used N54 studs. They work.

[Slideways]

It is easier to install the headers with shorter studs, especially aftermarket headers that take up more space than stock euros.

[JeremyJames]

Every single stud came out of the head even with PB blaster during header removal. My car is a Florida car with zero rust.

Is the Genuine BMW stud part # 07129900298 the best stud to reinstall or is there a better alternative? I know that the stock length stud is okay for my headers but the OEM stud will require the 2nut technique to reinstall. Not sure if there is a torx alternative that exists that may be better?

Thank you for your input!