Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Alternator Options

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Shonky
    replied
    A multimeter won't really give enough detail for show a bad diode. Basically it can be detected by looking at the ripple on the output which will be what the tester is looking at. Cheap battery testers often can do a ripple test.

    If you put the meter on AC volts, what do you get?

    Leave a comment:


  • Maxima SE
    replied
    Originally posted by Maxima SE View Post
    anyone have a Valeo go bad on them? I picked up a Z4M couple months ago that had a new valeo alternator installed less than 2 years ago and it is already bad. Freaking thing still looks brand new. I was shocked to find out it is bad when I took it to autozone.

    I ended up buying a multimeter and tested my battery voltage directly at the battery. The good news is that my alternator is charging perfectly fine. I am not sure why the autozone test showed "bad diode". I am thinking it has to do with connecting it to the jumper connections under the hood. In any case, ignore the false alarm about these new made in poland Valeo alternators being junk!

    Leave a comment:


  • elbert
    replied
    Originally posted by Maxima SE View Post
    Where do we get a regulator for the valeo units? I havent seen one online. Also the Z4M alternator has a different part number than the E46 M3.
    p/n 12317551153

    If you get a new voltage regulator, make sure the commutator is in good shape. I ended up buying a new alternator because mine was severely worn down.

    Leave a comment:


  • Maxima SE
    replied
    Where do we get a regulator for the valeo units? I havent seen one online. Also the Z4M alternator has a different part number than the E46 M3.

    Leave a comment:


  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
    CHECK THE REGULATOR!!!
    CHECK THE REGULATOR!!!
    CHECK THE REGULATOR!!!
    CHECK THE REGULATOR!!!

    Often times, remans come with a worn out or crap aftermarket regulator.

    Unless there is a bearing noise coming from the alternator...9 times out of 10 it is a bad regulator. A regulator is easy to replace and costs less than $100.
    Yes I plan to keep my OG Valeo and do this swap if the new one fails!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Mrgunfun
    replied
    I swapped mine with brand new BOSCH, no issues so far, been 4 months, car drives nicely (as always)

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    CHECK THE REGULATOR!!!
    CHECK THE REGULATOR!!!
    CHECK THE REGULATOR!!!
    CHECK THE REGULATOR!!!

    Often times, remans come with a worn out or crap aftermarket regulator.

    Unless there is a bearing noise coming from the alternator...9 times out of 10 it is a bad regulator. A regulator is easy to replace and costs less than $100.

    Leave a comment:


  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by fourmula1 View Post

    Same here (not smg though). Attached my data from a while ago. For my last event I got a replacement reman bosch and a new batter and still saw some fluctuation. It was less often though. For next season I'll put a new valeo in and I am going to clean up all of the wiring, all contacts and grounds, underdrive/power pully kit...amongst a lot of other stuff.
    Doing a track event this weekend. l’ll report back if its any better.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • fourmula1
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post

    It would fluctuate and trend downward as the track session went on. I would also see periodic dips to 13v but I suspect that was because SMG pump was priming.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Same here (not smg though). Attached my data from a while ago. For my last event I got a replacement reman bosch and a new batter and still saw some fluctuation. It was less often though. For next season I'll put a new valeo in and I am going to clean up all of the wiring, all contacts and grounds, underdrive/power pully kit...amongst a lot of other stuff.

    Leave a comment:


  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by fourmula1 View Post

    What were you seeing for voltage when on track? Low or fluctuating?
    It would fluctuate and trend downward as the track session went on. I would also see periodic dips to 13v but I suspect that was because SMG pump was priming.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • fourmula1
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post
    New Valeo unit seems to be doing the job.

    Old alt was 13.7v at cold idle. New alt is 14.1.

    Wont call it success until I do a track session though and see the data.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    What were you seeing for voltage when on track? Low or fluctuating?

    Leave a comment:


  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by Maxima SE View Post

    Its a new alternator, I have the receipt of when it was put in. The guy at Autozone hooked up the tester to the battery terminals under the hood and it came back "bad diode". I'm wondering if hooking up the tester to the jumpers under the hood has anything to do with it. We couldn't hook it up directly to the battery terminals because of the stupid big red plastic piece around the positive terminal and they were about to close. In any case, kinda bummed if it is really bad. It wouldnt start the other day and I put in a new starter thinking that was the culprit since both the battery and alternator are new.
    Yeah wasnt trying to claim it wasnt new, just curious when Valeo moved manufacturing from France to Poland.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Maxima SE
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post

    Photo of sticker? Country of mfr? Looks like the original alt was made in France but I think the newer ones are made in Poland.

    I just replaced the original alt and mine is 2004 with 100k miles. No clear sign of failure except a couple voltage dips in track data.

    I bet you could just replace the voltage regulator versus the whole alt. Unless it was a mechanical
    failure.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Its a new alternator, I have the receipt of when it was put in. The guy at Autozone hooked up the tester to the battery terminals under the hood and it came back "bad diode". I'm wondering if hooking up the tester to the jumpers under the hood has anything to do with it. We couldn't hook it up directly to the battery terminals because of the stupid big red plastic piece around the positive terminal and they were about to close. In any case, kinda bummed if it is really bad. It wouldnt start the other day and I put in a new starter thinking that was the culprit since both the battery and alternator are new.
    Last edited by Maxima SE; 11-01-2022, 07:55 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by Maxima SE View Post
    anyone have a Valeo go bad on them? I picked up a Z4M couple months ago that had a new valeo alternator installed less than 2 years ago and it is already bad. Freaking thing still looks brand new. I was shocked to find out it is bad when I took it to autozone.
    Photo of sticker? Country of mfr? Looks like the original alt was made in France but I think the newer ones are made in Poland.

    I just replaced the original alt and mine is 2004 with 100k miles. No clear sign of failure except a couple voltage dips in track data.

    I bet you could just replace the voltage regulator versus the whole alt. Unless it was a mechanical
    failure.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • Maxima SE
    replied
    anyone have a Valeo go bad on them? I picked up a Z4M couple months ago that had a new valeo alternator installed less than 2 years ago and it is already bad. Freaking thing still looks brand new. I was shocked to find out it is bad when I took it to autozone.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X