Found my oil leak!

[CrookedCommie]

At max on dipstick. I'd imagine that the plug serves some purpose, even if it's not this?

[George Hill]

Another track buddy must have had a similar coincidence, same deal. We fill to halfway now. Either way, not sure that I would jb weld it.

How much was it overfilled? Interesting data points either way.

[CrookedCommie]

I'd be curious to see more info to back this up as I just don't see that as being accurate. The oil separating system is open to the intake, that would have to be plugged to build crankcase pressure enough to blow it out and even then I would think it would have to push past the seals to do that. I would think yours is just coincidence, but I'd be happy to hear more either way.

Another track buddy must have had a similar coincidence, same deal. We fill to halfway now. Either way, not sure that I would jb weld it.

[George Hill]

Don't JB weld this. In case you overfill with oil, or get another issue which causes crankshaft pressure to rise, this is meant to relieve it, you'll probably cause more damage if it can't. I've had this fly out on track when the car was overfilled with oil, found it in the underbelly pan, fixed the oil level, and carried on.

I'd be curious to see more info to back this up as I just don't see that as being accurate. The oil separating system is open to the intake, that would have to be plugged to build crankcase pressure enough to blow it out and even then I would think it would have to push past the seals to do that. I would think yours is just coincidence, but I'd be happy to hear more either way.

[CrookedCommie]

Don't JB weld this. In case you overfill with oil, or get another issue which causes crankshaft pressure to rise, this is meant to relieve it, you'll probably cause more damage if it can't. I've had this fly out on track when the car was overfilled with oil, found it in the underbelly pan, fixed the oil level, and carried on.

[bigjae46]

Did this leak cause oil to build up on the protruding edges (corners) of your headgasket?

I've been chasing this for awhile. It dripped off the chain tensioner and then runs down the right (pass) side of the timing cover and then across the right side of the oil pan. I first replaced the chain tensioner crush washer. Then the VANOS gasket. I was thinking it was the timing cover but didn't make sense why it was dripping off the chain tensioner.

[Cubieman]

Did this leak cause oil to build up on the protruding edges (corners) of your headgasket?

[bigjae46]

I used a punch and tapped on the bottom edge so the plug rotated on the hole. Then pliers to grab and remove it. Now just waiting for the part to come in.

There is a crusty brown film. I took a scotch pad and cleaned up the opening in the head which also roughs it up for the JB weld. I had this head hot tanked so it is otherwise clean inside. This might be a good thing to do preventively if you take the VANOS solenoid pack off.

I removed the front end so it took 5 minutes. No need to remove the front end, I already had it off for other reasons and it takes me less than 30 minutes to remove.

[Tbonem3]

Flush your coolant and just add water back, then drive to the arctic circle, shut the car off and later they should pop out really easily 👌

[mrgizmo04]

Screw a sheet metal screw (or multiple) into it and pull?

You don't have much oomph to pull, they are in there pretty well, unless you use those sliding reverse hammers.

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[mrgizmo04]

Any advice on removing it? I was thinking about tapping on one edge to push one side in which will pop the other side out and then pry out. Or do I need to remove the VANOS?

Usually use a punch or screwdriver and tap it with a hammer a few times, it will spin and then you can use pliers, or it will pop put by itself. Remember circle is a shape that can not go through itself, so don't worry about it falling inside the engine, unless you mangle it REALLY badly.

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[heinzboehmer]

Any advice on removing it? I was thinking about tapping on one edge to push one side in which will pop the other side out and then pry out. Or do I need to remove the VANOS?

Screw a sheet metal screw (or multiple) into it and pull?

[bigjae46]

Wasn't planning on welding this one, just talking through my thoughts when I installed a freeze plug on the water pump. On the water pump, I'd just place 4 tacks which wouldn't be enough heat to warp the part anyway.

I'll just rough out of the edge of the opening and freeze plug and apply a little JB weld.

Any advice on removing it? I was thinking about tapping on one edge to push one side in which will pop the other side out and then pry out. Or do I need to remove the VANOS?

[PetrolM3]

I would advise against welding - thermal expansion of the motor and plug happens every time the engine heats up and cools down. If you weld that plug (the weld won't be perfectly round and even), it could alter how the plug handles that thermal expansion in the opening and it could leak more than if left alone. If I were to weld, I wouldn't allow the welds to touch the plug, simply put a couple of blobs on the outer end of the opening after installing the plug. JB weld is probably too weak to be able to impact the thermal expansion but it will stay in place and prevent the plug from falling out (mine has been good for over 2 years now). Just my opinion though... I'm no engineer.

Also, how would you weld the rear plugs? I struggled to apply JB weld with my fingers back there due to limited access/visibility (after roughing up and cleaning the surface blindly). Had to use my phone camera on a selfie stick to inspect during each step as there's really no way to see what you're doing. I see no way to weld back there unless the motor is out. And if you do weld, how would you address a leaky plug that's welded - remove the motor?

[heinzboehmer]

It has held up so far although oil pressure can be higher than coolant system pressure. Ideally, I would have TIG welded the freeze plug in except I could not find an aluminum freeze plug.

There's no oil pressure behind that freeze plug. It leads directly into the timing chain area, so it basically just gets splashed with oil. Only thing you need to worry about is crankcase pressure.

There is also an expansion plug underneath so I am assuming I need to replace the freeze plug AND the expansion plug?

Expansion plug - 11121407412
Freeze plug - 07119901197

The expansion plug is on the surface of the head past the timing chain (further back towards the cabin) and is actually the reason why the freeze plug is there in the first place (access to the expansion plug would be extremely limited otherwise). I'm not sure I would weld the freeze plug in case you ever need access to the expansion plug. Some adhesive like JB weld seems like a decent middle ground.

So, unless you see something obviously wrong with the expansion plug when you take the valve cover off, I would leave it. Freeze plug is the only thing that should be contributing to your leak.