Liqui Moly additives

[eacmen]

When I ran LM I did add MoS2. When rod bearings were done the shop did say it had settled to the bottom of the pan. But maybe it mixes back in when oil is flowing?

Id say do an experiment and add it to some new oil in a clear container and see if it mixes in with the suspension or settles.

After LM I got like 20qts of TWS second hand for cheap and it worked fine. Last season I ran Motul 15-50 and saw a few deg cooler oil temps. Right now I'm trying out RedLine 15-50 and see how it compares.

I would say use a high quality oil at short intervals and youll be fine.


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[Arith2]

MoS2 or Ceratec are not snake oil products IMO, they do have physics behind their principle of work, and are TUV approved. Now, whether or not are necessary or help bearings in the long run to be proven.

The MoS2 is already in most oils for our cars except Liquimoly. That's what's ironically funny. Motul has the most MOS2 from what I've seen. OE does just fine though and also has a decent amount. Ceratec is snake oil because everyone else already adds it to their oil where Liquimoly makes you buy it separately.

[dukeofchen]

I've said it a bunch before, it's hilarious the one oil with "moly" in its name doesn't contain any molybdenum disuflide as an anti-wear additive. But yes, they sell it a la carte.

I get the allure of the LM 5 liter jug when it was $45-50, but now that it's $60 coupled with the facts that it's of mediocre base stock, heavier (but less shear-stable) than the other 10w60s, fewer additives, I don't see the point. Motul is better, and is $50/5l on amazon. Red line 5w50, BMW oil (now back to being castrol again fyi) on FCP, Castrol supercar when it's on sale with advanced or on amazon, are better choices too imo.

Been using LM for years but with the rise in prices might go BMW for the next one. With FCP the price is pretty much irrelevant, $18 to ship the old stuff back to them as often as I like, and even though its now store credit it's basically a revolving balance.

[maupineda]

MoS2 or Ceratec are not snake oil products IMO, they do have physics behind their principle of work, and are TUV approved. Now, whether or not are necessary or help bearings in the long run to be proven.

[Tbonem3]

People love buying into all these snake oil products, why aren’t they already in the LM oil…..lol

I wouldn’t use flush product unless it was really bad

I've said it a bunch before, it's hilarious the one oil with "moly" in its name doesn't contain any molybdenum disuflide as an anti-wear additive. But yes, they sell it a la carte.

I get the allure of the LM 5 liter jug when it was $45-50, but now that it's $60 coupled with the facts that it's of mediocre base stock, heavier (but less shear-stable) than the other 10w60s, fewer additives, I don't see the point. Motul is better, and is $50/5l on amazon. Red line 5w50, BMW oil (now back to being castrol again fyi) on FCP, Castrol supercar when it's on sale with advanced or on amazon, are better choices too imo.

[digger]

People love buying into all these snake oil products, why aren’t they already in the LM oil…..lol

I wouldn’t use flush product unless it was really bad

[Arith2]

Use an oil that doesn't push additives like they're necessary. I wouldn't use MOS2 with BMW oil simply because they already put it in. Liquimoly sells it as a separate additive. I do prefer Motul but currently use OE just for convenience. Motul runs a few degrees cooler but that's not really a huge deal. You can get into the nitty and gritty of oil specs and additives. Proper oil in the engine isn't going to damage but do you want that extra 3% of performance? Liquimoly is mediocre oil. It lubes your engine. It's going to be sufficient. It also objectively the thicker than any other 10W60 I know of.

An engine cleaner is an engine cleaner. Using a cleaner has its risks on any engine with any product. They dislodge stuff and put it in your oil. That's why you put it in and only run the engine for a short time. Decide if you want to risk it. A vast majority of the time, no issues are caused. If it get regular oil changes, not every 15k miles, it's most likely unnecessary. I change my oil every 3k miles and it comes out dark. Most do 5k to 7.5k. The benefit of Liquimoly oil is where it lacks in lubrication and protective additives, it has like 2.5 times more detergents in it than any other 10W60.

[JokerElite]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it man.

About my musings on Liquimoly lube, this is my own experience with LM 10w-60 - it seems just a hair more viscous than BMW Twin Power oil. I can “feel it” because the motor doesn't spin-up as freely. The engine also hangs onto revs just a fraction longer on a shift. I just changed out the LM 10w-60 my mechanic poured in the crankcase after he replaced the rod bearings; I logged a thousand miles on the LM. After draining the LM and pouring in fresh BMW Twin Power & a bottle of Ceratec, it spins up like a dream now, and my shifts aren't as clunky. Anyways….

I was considering switching from BMW 10w60 to LM 10w60 and this concerns me lol

[Speed Monkey]

…Rod bearings was done as soon as I bought it. Car sounds and drives perfect now….

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it man.

About my musings on Liquimoly lube, this is my own experience with LM 10w-60 - it seems just a hair more viscous than BMW Twin Power oil. I can “feel it” because the motor doesn’t spin-up as freely. The engine also hangs onto revs just a fraction longer on a shift. I just changed out the LM 10w-60 my mechanic poured in the crankcase after he replaced the rod bearings; I logged a thousand miles on the LM. After draining the LM and pouring in fresh BMW Twin Power & a bottle of Ceratec, it spins up like a dream now, and my shifts aren’t as clunky. Anyways….

[Dat.E46M3]

Immaterial in my eyes unless you are a new owner and aren't sure about PO maintenance history.

when I bought it was in a bad shape, I have no maintenance history from previous owners. Rod bearings was done as soon as I bought it. Car sounds and drives perfect now… I’m just curious if this is something that would benefit the motor. I take a really good care of everything now….

[oceansize]

The car is 150k miles now.

Immaterial in my eyes unless you are a new owner and aren't sure about PO maintenance history.

[Dat.E46M3]

I wouldn’t use it in your situation. What’s the point? Minimal mileage and you are doing regular oil changes.

The car is 150k miles now.

[Cubieman]

I do sometimes wonder if additives might settle in the lower part of the pan in front where you can't really drain it out completely and IF so is that really an issue?

I would have to image most of the high quality additives mix homogenously with the oil. I have used the MoS2 from time to time.

It shows on a blackstone oil analysis when I've used an additive and when I haven't so it would seem that the additives don't "sink to bottom" as I was once told by someone.

[maupineda]

I use ceratec or MoS2, but like said already. No point in engine flush unless your car has varnish and sludge from prior owners not doing regular oil changes

[Maxima SE]

Hi, quick question… Im about to Do an Oil change. I usually do an Oil change once a year. I only drive it in the summer, so I don’t put lot of miles on it.
I have been using Liqui Moly for the past 3 years now. I have never use anything besides the oil itself in the motor.
Is it ok to use a Liqui moly Pro line Engine flush, or this all BS, and it doesn’t Do nothing to your motor?
I’m always afraid of putting additives in, and ruin the motor lol…

I have used it. It doesnt hurt the motor. It is more for dirty engines that use conventional oils without regular oil changes. Probably not as much benefit in a car that uses synthetic oil with regular oil changes. It doesn't hurt to try it. Just make sure you just idle the car and not drive it after you add it to warm oil.