Porsche Brembo 996 BBK Conversion-- let's figure out how to fix the dust boots/seals

[mrgizmo04]

Side note but related to 996 brakes, has anyone had success getting a properly firm pedal feel, with engagement up a little higher from the floor? Assuming everything is bled and in correct working condition.

Higher from the floor than what? Stock? My pedal is pretty firm, engages by barely presing the pedal, I think that's what converted a few locals to the kit . You have to bleed them quite a bit and doing it with caliper radially off the bracket so you can move the caliper around to get all bubbles out is key. I also dotched the rubber nipples, they seemed to get in the way of properly tightening the bleed screws as they dug into the threads.

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[Nate047]

Side note but related to 996 brakes, has anyone had success getting a properly firm pedal feel, with engagement up a little higher from the floor? Assuming everything is bled and in correct working condition.

[mrgizmo04]

DCT60s... which admittedly aren't very good pads.

Never found a pad I like as much as the old PF01s, but the Hawks aren't even close.

I run split mu 70 front 60 rear and while I didn't love them initially, I grew to like them overtime and modulate the off/on switch nature of them.

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[mrgizmo04]

It's no longer “free” though. Yeah we all buy plenty of BMW parts but there's a limit. Store credit is a lot less useful to me these days since both of my M cars are in very solid mechanical shape. Half the time I want some small cheap part I struggle to even get to the $50 free shipping threshold without buying things I don't need.

I haven't done the math but the GTs with their larger 345mm rear rotors might move brake forces at the tire slightly rear which would decrease braking distance up to a point. I'm not sure the usual bias calc of torque applied to the rotors accounts for the extra lever arm.

If you bought original parts before the policy went into effect and keep using the parts, like rotors/pads/whatever, you can return and ask them to sweep the credit to your credit card or PayPal. That assumes that you (not you, but royal you), actually drive the car and use up the parts to make it worthwhile. I know some people replace rotors and pads once in 100k miles, that program prob won't be best for that use case.

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[mrgizmo04]

Yeah, you're not wrong...

Turns out this "budget" kit isn't all that budget at all if you track your car. Love getting sucked into the sunk cost fallacy, so determined to get it somewhat tolerable!

Yeah this budget kit is way over budget

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[mrgizmo04]

How often are you replacing rotors?

I know not q for me, but my CSL rotors are lasting surprisingly long time. I'm on third pad set of DTC70 after 5 track days, and front rotors are around 27.5 (28mm new, recommended replacement 26.4). Obviously wear will accelerate exponentially with less meat, so will monitor.

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[mrgizmo04]

Just another data point. Girodisc dust boots did not survive either:




Pads were at about 50% and I was using titanium shims. No brake cooling though.

Get the scoops installed into the stock opening in the shield in front of the wheel bearing and we can run again .

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[mrgizmo04]

Not to derail or take this thread off topic from 996 Brembos but I think its still relevant; speaking of piston 'upgrades' from aluminum got me looking for my Megane Brembos and found this SS piston kit from RacingBrakes. Seems the FK8 CTR Brembos use the same size pistons as the Megane Brembos. What sucks is that it's so hard to find info on the exact size of the Megane pistons, I know theyre 40/40mm diameter but the depth I'll just have to assume/hope they're 30mm like the CTR's.

https://racingbrake.com/bh-41p/

For $266 it's not baaad, like yeah it sucks having to spend more money on the budget BBK (and spend the time and labor to rebuild), but even with the full rebuild kit they also sell ($407 with high temp boots upgrade https://racingbrake.com/bh-41bsp/) the Freakyparts Megane Brembo kit + Girodisc 345mm rotors is still cheaper than a Brembo GT 355mm front kit but not by much maybe after the rebuild kit I'd have saved $1k, but still much cheaper than any of the AP Racing kits on Essex (besides the 325mm kit they sell).

Their small 8350 kit is apparently for autox and street driving and not heavy track. I wish it was a 332 instead of a 325 rotor, that could work out, however the rotor is x32 thick. Z is running it for now.

What about titanium alloy pistons - https://www.silverlakeprojects.com/p...ns-for-porsche

I'm going to be trying these. The slight problem is the energy has to go somewhere, so if you are impeding xfer from pad to piston (by swapping from alu to ti pistons), pad will keep more heat. Not ideal for me because I faded DTC70 pads. Everyone is solving for dustboots so impeding heat xfer to pistons "should" help with that and keep you from boiling your fluid, however I don't want to keep the heat in the pad either and I have to solve for that problem also . But getting bigger x (impedance, shim, pad, etc) is like getting a bucket to fill up with water vs a cup. Yes the bucket can hold more water, but at some point it will still get overfilled. So depending how long you run sessions for the gradient will get flatter and flatter as everything saturates in heat.

Pistons I already put into the calipers they are barely lighter for both 40 and 36mm (like a gram or so) and 0.01mm larger in diameter vs alu. I expected this with Ti alloys. They should expand less than alu, so went in a bit tighter into the bores.

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[mrgizmo04]

Do you mean the pad thickness of the stock pad size vs the D1001? Or the caliper's max space for the pads? If the latter id assume the stock calipers had a much wider gap for pads, since Ive been having dust boots issues since moving to the Megane Brembos.

I should've mentioned in my previous post that I'm running rear 996 Brembos, their stock dust boots have been holding up fine. I didnt even rebuild them, just installed the used calipers with the factory boots since they looked good and still no cracks or issues, though I havent looked at them since the last track day with the PFC08 pads. I was running lower friction compound GLOC pads rear and I think the fronts were basically doing all the braking work so maybe that's why they haven't been heat stressed and cracked yet (no boots touching either with the 737 pad shape).

Just wanted to see the brake pad comparison vs stock overlaid, like attached. Front 996 kit pad is barely larger than stock (if you can call it that). D1001 pads I think are slightly larger.

Yes, cooling will help tremendously. Stock tunnels are not enough. My first kit that I made was with 2" hoses (one you probably added to your watchlist), that became a pain taking down the bellypan because I routed it through there. Stock shield has a hole cutout on the back of it right in front of the bearing where I attached the hose, so you can go with that as part 1, that helped. After that, I trimmed the shield in such a way that my ball joints are all protected, and it does remove a tonne of shield to help radiate the heat and help with convection.

Rears I monitor, but yes, they don't require much maintenance. My rear pads are maybe 1/4 worn, while I'm on my third front set. Rear Girodisc dust boots are doing fine.

My temp reading on the rear caliper (Alcon sticker strips) barely get the first 121 degree bar (I fully trimmed the shield in rear, and use aluminum tape around the rubber bushings), while my front ones in similar location get to the 400 mark. Makes sense given that the paint I put on the edge of the rotors reads over 1400, I did fade DTC 70 pads at Laguna in T2 so they get over 1200 degrees, conducting into backing plates and ti shims to pistons (forget the dustboots at this point), I've had my 600 degree fluid boil on different occasions (with fuller pad), so then the outsides of the calipers see 400 degrees. That's hot. I feel bad for those seals.

[heinzboehmer]

Has anyone tried the OEM Porsche dust boots? When I did the 996 conversion on my car I rebuilt the calipers, and while shopping for parts I found that the only thing Porsche sold separately was the boots.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-disc-brake-caliper-rebuild-kit-centric-genuine-porsche-kit-14337013

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...e-kit-14337009

Yeah those were the first set I fried.

[D-O]

Nevermind.

[George Hill]

TBH, if I were building a track car, I would just buy a 355x35mm Brembo Pista kit. IMO it's the best consumer track day setup for the front of these cars, but you can't get free consumables and the kit costs money.

I know you know this but the Pista kit doesn't have dust seals which is ironic because that is the whole point of this thread.

With that said I'm putting a Pista kit on my car

[Obioban]

No, they're not. And you're being charitable.

Let me ask this... all the cost – both in terms of money and time – to get prepped for the track, to go to the track, and spend the day on the track. Why not spend money to put proper parts on your car and maximize the precious time on track? Instead of doing all of that and ending up with brakes that only last for the first 10 minutes out of a 20 minute session, and every time you push the pedal, you're thinking they're not so great...

Just throwing that out there. I don't even care if you buy GiroDisc or not. I've realized that the time and effort commitment to getting to the track and maximizing every minute out there dwarfs saving a couple hundred bucks in a ridiculously expensive hobby.

Ha. They make it through a session without fade. If they didn’t, I’d be off this whole concept.

I only get ~2 events out them, but that’s fine when free.

It’s really just the seals that are annoying, and so far I’ve dealt with that by… ignoring it and not having dust seals.

[r4dr]

DCT60s... which admittedly aren't very good pads.

Never found a pad I like as much as the old PF01s, but the Hawks aren't even close.

No, they're not. And you're being charitable.

Let me ask this... all the cost – both in terms of money and time – to get prepped for the track, to go to the track, and spend the day on the track. Why not spend money to put proper parts on your car and maximize the precious time on track? Instead of doing all of that and ending up with brakes that only last for the first 10 minutes out of a 20 minute session, and every time you push the pedal, you're thinking they're not so great...

Just throwing that out there. I don't even care if you buy GiroDisc or not. I've realized that the time and effort commitment to getting to the track and maximizing every minute out there dwarfs saving a couple hundred bucks in a ridiculously expensive hobby.

[Obioban]

Anything is possible. And you're correct, since these calipers are all radially mounted, it would simply be a matter of caliper spacers and correspondingly longer caliper bolts. But it would end up being a custom hat (we could probably use an off-the-shelf Porsche ring so replacements are easy), and the price would be more reasonable if 5-10 people wanted to jump on.

However, we're also in a thread talking about free rotors... how many people would want to pay $1200 or so for a pair of assemblies?



What pads are you currently using via the FCP program?.

DCT60s... which admittedly aren't very good pads.

Never found a pad I like as much as the old PF01s, but the Hawks aren't even close.