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Advice on getting the front differential bolt torqued to spec on jack stands

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  • Epsilon
    replied
    Originally posted by E46m3zcp View Post
    What is your issue? I don't understand what you're saying. How can you use a floor jack to tighten a bolt?
    lol...I didn't explain it very well. I tried using the floor jack to leverage the torque wrench and the wrench wouldn't hold and that failed.

    Originally posted by 01SG View Post
    My concern here is that the OP is having trouble torquing it down in the first place, his issue is not that it's coming loose.
    That is correct. I was unable to torque to spec from the bottom of the car due to lack of leverage so the Nordlock is a safeguard.​

    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
    I lie on my back with my face under the front bolt and knees under the muffler, so you get the orientation. I put the torque wrench on my jeans/right quad and do a "bridge". Makes it pretty easy.


    I will give this a shot. Thx!
    Last edited by Epsilon; 09-23-2023, 03:21 PM.

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  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by oceansize View Post

    I ran into this a couple of weeks ago, I went to check torque and realized I can't get to the bolt with the CMP subframe bushings. Next time I drop the exhaust the nord-lock is going on.
    Yep, it was an unpleasant surprise after I installed my cmp bushings

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  • 01SG
    replied
    Hmm, in my personal experience it has never backed out. I don't go to the track too often though. Can't see it being a problem on a road car if the driver has any mechanical sympathy. I did strip mine and thread repair it, without loctite, and it still hasn't come loose in the 15k miles since. I checked it once in that time and it was tight.

    Makes sense if you can't easily get to the thing with the subframe raising bushings. I only got TMS solids.

    My concern here is that the OP is having trouble torquing it down in the first place, his issue is not that it's coming loose.
    Last edited by 01SG; 09-23-2023, 08:12 AM.

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  • oceansize
    replied
    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
    It is semi required for those with subframe raising solid bushings, because checking torque on it becomes a several hour job to remove exhaust and crossmeber (although easier way is with camera/mirror and paint mark).
    I ran into this a couple of weeks ago, I went to check torque and realized I can't get to the bolt with the CMP subframe bushings. Next time I drop the exhaust the nord-lock is going on.

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  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by 01SG View Post
    I don't get why this washer is required unless something is wrong. It should go in more than a few turns by hand if it isn't stripped.
    This bolt is notorious for backing out even if installed correctly. Extra insurance can't hurt. I don't think anyone is claiming this washer is required.

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  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Originally posted by 01SG View Post
    I don't get why this washer is required unless something is wrong. It should go in more than a few turns by hand if it isn't stripped.
    It's not required if you regularly check torque on that bolt, it backs out, especially for those who romp on the gas pedal on and off. Alternative is you use red loctite, which is not recommended if you ever have to remove it.

    It is semi required for those with subframe raising solid bushings, because checking torque on it becomes a several hour job to remove exhaust and crossmeber (although easier way is with camera/mirror and paint mark).

    Sent from my SM-S911U1 using Tapatalk

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post

    that is much thicker than i would have imagined
    That's what she said

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  • 01SG
    replied
    I don't get why this washer is required unless something is wrong. It should go in more than a few turns by hand if it isn't stripped.

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by eacmen View Post

    that is much thicker than i would have imagined
    They're a two part assembly that come attached together with what looks like hot glue. Once installed they get a bit slimmer, but they're probably still 2x as thick as a regular washer

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  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    I got nordlocks 1534, thickness is same 3.4mm, but I didn't opt for extended outer diameter, you don't really benefit, since head of the bolt is not that large. Just remember to grind off the washer that comes on the stock bolt.

    Sent from my SM-S911U1 using Tapatalk

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  • 9kracing
    replied

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  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by Epsilon View Post
    Received the Nordlock. Photos for reference.

    Click image for larger version

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    that is much thicker than i would have imagined

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  • E46m3zcp
    replied
    Originally posted by Epsilon View Post
    I also tried to use my floor jack to tighten the bolt, but due to the accumulated play in the sockets and ratcheting mechanism, it is difficult to get it to hold while I pump the jack.


    What is your issue? I don't understand what you're saying. How can you use a floor jack to tighten a bolt?

    Leave a comment:


  • Epsilon
    replied
    Received the Nordlock. Photos for reference.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Nord1.jpg
Views:	318
Size:	75.5 KB
ID:	234907
    Click image for larger version

Name:	Nord2.jpg
Views:	308
Size:	135.3 KB
ID:	234908
    Click image for larger version

Name:	Nord3.jpg
Views:	309
Size:	135.6 KB
ID:	234909

    Leave a comment:


  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    I lie on my back with my face under the front bolt and knees under the muffler, so you get the orientation. I put the torque wrench on my jeans/right quad and do a "bridge". Makes it pretty easy.

    Sent from my SM-S911U1 using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:

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