Wish I had know about the Nord-lock when I did mine.
And, as Heinz points out, the upper diff bolts get torqued last. This is when I discovered I could not get my torque wrench and e-torx socket in between the body and the diff mount....
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Advice on getting the front differential bolt torqued to spec on jack stands
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Originally posted by Epsilon View PostOn a side note, do you tighten the fronts diff bolts first or the rear? Does it matter?
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Thanks guys for the correct torque of 200nm or 147.5 ft lb.
This higher torque just makes it harder although an impact driver may be the way now. BTW, I was able to screw it in by hand a couple of turns before using any tools so I don't think I cross threaded.
On a similar thread, someone suggested Nord-lock. Do you apply the same torque with the Nord-lock?
On a side note, do you tighten the fronts diff bolts first or the rear? Does it matter?
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Originally posted by 01SG View PostI thought the diff bolt was 148 ft lbs? If not, I am sure as hell glad mine didn't break when I put it there.
It shouldn't be so difficult. Are you sure it isn't cross-threaded? Have you put something like a metal pipe on the end of the wrench to get more leverage? That really should not be necessary though. Be very careful if you're doing that under there, the bolt might break and the tool may slip. But that really should not be necessary..
I don't recall it having to be that high off the ground either.
Finding just the right size extension to clear the housing and not interfere with the floor or frame on the other end worked with my 1/2 inch Snap-on. And I am not the biggest guy.
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Assuming your wrench can do 128 ft/lbs, use a pipe for leverage. Are your rear diff bolts slightly loose? I typically leave them a little loose so I can remove load on the front diff bolt with a jack and then tighten it. It was a little tricky but has worked for me.
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I thought the diff bolt was 148 ft lbs? If not, I am sure as hell glad mine didn't break when I put it there.
It shouldn't be so difficult. Are you sure it isn't cross-threaded? Have you put something like a metal pipe on the end of the wrench to get more leverage? That really should not be necessary though. Be very careful if you're doing that under there, the bolt might break and the tool may slip. But that really should not be necessary..
I don't recall it having to be that high off the ground either.
Finding just the right size extension to clear the housing and not interfere with the floor or frame on the other end worked with my 1/2 inch Snap-on. And I am not the biggest guy.
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Originally posted by Epsilon View PostI do have a few Ryobi impact drivers, but was afraid of stripping the bolt since it only has adjustment for different levels.
I'd give it 5-10 seconds with your cheapest Ryobi and call it a day, you should be pretty damn close to 130 ft-lbs
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Big Milwaukee impact and a harbor freight swivel joint. That should get the bolt pretty close to 128 ft/lbs so it’s less than a 1/4 turn on the torque wrench.
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Originally posted by Epsilon View Post
You're thinking of the rear diff bolts?
For the front I needed to get the torque wrench out beyond the part of the sub-frame that surrounds the bolt. To be clear, they were short wobble extensions, not universal joints. It was a wonky deal, but it worked.
I was on quickjacks (~24").Last edited by D-O; 09-13-2023, 11:12 AM.
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I would probably just get it as tight as you can with a ratchet that does have clearance and then see if there is one of those DIY lift for rent places nearby, drive it there slowly and torque it fully.
Otherwise just ask any place with a lift like a tyre center, muffler shop, or anything else with a lift if you may use it for 5 minutes for a few bucks.
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Originally posted by OldRanger View Post
I can think of a couple options that involve friends: 1) find someone local on the board that has Quick Jacks or a lift at home. 2) find a vehicle or equipment trailer with open center section sufficient for access.May require a local member to help out if they have the time and I can feed him. In South Bay of California if anyone can provide a hand.
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If I recall correctly, it was two short wobble extensions and a 12pt socket.
Good luck.
D-O
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I'm not even trying to be accurate, but just don't want it to fall loose during an adventure drive. I do have a few Ryobi impact drivers, but was afraid of stripping the bolt since it only has adjustment for different levels.
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