I've not considered transmission swaps. However, when i bought my E46 M3 i couldn't believe how bad the first to second change was, how crashy the ride was and how poor the brakes were.
Not really knowing anything about them but had always wanted one. I decided to get AP brakes, Bilstein PSS10 suspension but what to do with the gearchange.
Luckily, i knew a Mastertech and i had BMW Warranty. He agreed it was as it should be and i got a new gearbox under warranty.
It was better but not great. I then got an Auto Solutions SSK with 30% shift throw which made a massive difference. Thank you Mad Russian.
A change in the gearbox to Redline 70
The shift is great. I have tried lots of other options in the 150k miles since i bought the car, including Rogue SSK and UUC DSSR shift rod but it's the oil and the shifter that will get you 90% of the way there. Well unless your transmission is knackered.
Redline Synthetic Manual Transmission MT-LV 70W/75W is the best i have tried and i have tried them all more or less.
Slightly off topic but i thought it might help a bit.
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S6-37 6mt swap info (broken off from junk yard thread)
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N5x generations bolt the starter to the block and of course our S54s bolt the starter to the transmission. When you put an N5x transmission on an S54 there is no location for the starter. There are a couple ways to solve this issue but no matter which way your go here the N5x generation transmissions require much more work/customization to bolt into an E46.Originally posted by Tomba View PostWas thinking to put a N52/N53 gearbox behind it but you need a different flywheel for it as noted.
The upper (2) bolt holes for the N5x transmissions are just slightly offset from the M/S5x engines. With a dremel/die grinder you can easily slot the holes and make it work. The lower (2) bolt holes are doweled and do the locating so these upper are just to hold everything tight.Originally posted by Tomba View PostIt looks like the N5x gearbox needs slight machining to make the upper 2 bolts fit.
IRC Diesel transmission are tilted at a different angle than gas transmissions. It can be adjusted with adapters but seems less than ideal and as you noted the gearing is generally less than ideal for gas RPM bands as well.Originally posted by Tomba View PostN47/N57 gearbox?
The 420G is NLA from BMW (I checked last week).Originally posted by Tomba View PostDo some of you know companies that refurbish the S6S-420G?
In the US, Diffsonline used to rebuild them but no longer offers that service. Metric Mechanic still advertises it but I have no experience (first or secondhand) with this service.
There is still no good option for running the 8HP with an MSS54 DME.Originally posted by Tomba View PostAnother option would be to go automatic
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I'm in the same boat. Have an S50B32 fitted in my E30 with the Getrag S6S 420G. 4th gear synchro is out with fast shifting.
N52/N53 gearbox?
Was thinking to put a N52/N53 gearbox behind it but you need a different flywheel for it as noted.
They sell them here,
ZF 6-speed manual Adapter Kits | Swap Solutions / Adapter Kits / Clutch Kits | Full Adapter Kits | BMW M50 S50 M52 S52 M54 S54
It looks like the N5x gearbox needs slight machining to make the upper 2 bolts fit.
Still rated from €600 - 1300,-
N47/N57 gearbox?
Availability a lot, and cheap. But doubt the gearing would suit the S5X engines
M5x 6 speed
GS637BZ from M54 are getting more and more expensive here, €1750,- minimum and without service history. Don't think its worth the gamble for that amount of money. Quite a shame BMW doesn't deliver parts for these gearboxes.
Refurb?
Do some of you know companies that refurbish the S6S-420G? Europe would be my preferred location as I suspect high shipping costs. A RMFD one from the dealer costs €4600,-.
Seems ALLGEARS in the UK does them.
8HP / DKG
Another option would be to go automatic, but I like the "old school" manual, and I think its character matches better for the car.
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IIRC the M3 guibo is thicker than a Non-M so I would plan on using the M3 guibo as well.
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Originally posted by Bry5on View Post
Unfortunately that setup won’t work! You’ll need to use the 330i driveshaft (and potentially guibo) because as George said above, the diff input flange is in a different axial location on the non-m vs the bigger diff in the MOriginally posted by George Hill View Post
The M3 diff is longer, making that distance shorter.
OOHH! Well shooooooot. I didn't know those two were in a different location. Thanks!
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Unfortunately that setup won’t work! You’ll need to use the 330i driveshaft (and potentially guibo) because as George said above, the diff input flange is in a different axial location on the non-m vs the bigger diff in the MOriginally posted by liam821 View Post
That is weird. Realoem lists the e46 "zhp" manual gs6-37 driveshaft at 1444mm, while the M3 is 1404mm. I'm assuming the bellhousing mounting location is in the exact same spot between the two - where is the 20mm?
I looked for a gs6-37 transmission for my "daughter's" 330i, but they were either more than I'd want to spend or had a million miles. I ended up sourcing a 420g M3 6spd and will be using an M3 driveshaft, m3 clutch kit, and an non-m 3.48 diff from an automatic 330i.
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The M3 diff is longer, making that distance shorter.Originally posted by liam821 View Postwhere is the 20mm?
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That is weird. Realoem lists the e46 "zhp" manual gs6-37 driveshaft at 1444mm, while the M3 is 1404mm. I'm assuming the bellhousing mounting location is in the exact same spot between the two - where is the 20mm?Originally posted by George Hill View PostWe know the internet puts M3 differentials in non-M 6spd cars so this should work for Bryson's setup as well. But I don't always believe everything on the internet, except they are correct in this instance. The GS6-37 is 2.5mm longer than the 420G and they both use a 96mm guibo, note IIRC the M3 guibo is "thicker" than the non-M the M3 should be used either way.
I looked for a gs6-37 transmission for my "daughter's" 330i, but they were either more than I'd want to spend or had a million miles. I ended up sourcing a 420g M3 6spd and will be using an M3 driveshaft, m3 clutch kit, and an non-m 3.48 diff from an automatic 330i.
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Originally posted by George Hill View Post
What kit is this, can you share the pn#?
Yeah, you can get it from rockauto here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...31328&pt=12825Originally posted by xUltra View Post
There might be better options available but this is what I have installed in the GS6-37:
BMW Flywheel Conversion Kit - Valeo 835101
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And if you are feeling adventurous there are these, if the shipping wasn't so much I give them a try:
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If you’re doing this conversion, be sure to grab as many of the donor e46 330i parts as possible, as they’re skyrocketing in price.
Exhibit A (you need two of these, which is insulting):
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IMO after driving 3 Z4Ms, some of these gearboxes do it, and some don't, and I have no idea why.Originally posted by e46IX View Post
I took an angle grinder to the cross brace and went to town until there was enough clearance from the midpipe.
I've got 3 E46 M3's running around locally now on ZF 6MT gearboxes.
Maybe I've had better luck with used transmissions but none of them seem to be grinding from 1-2. I just put MTF-LT5 from the dealer in there, nothing special.
Mind you I'm also running stiffer engine and trans mounts on these cars, maybe that helps with the grind, less movement.
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I took an angle grinder to the cross brace and went to town until there was enough clearance from the midpipe.Originally posted by xUltra View PostPermission to revive an old thread..
I've had the 330 ZF GS6-37 in the M3 for several years now with 330 Valeo Single Mass Flywheel Clutch kit and it's been great. Love the notchy-ness. Drives and shifts amazingly well.
The only issue I've had is the cross brace touching the midpipes.
I have had the cross member shaved off enough without structurally compromising it's strength and was able to clear it. Now the car runs an aftermarket exhaust and has slightly less clearance than the stock exhaust unfortunately. The midpipes expand with heat and slightly hit the cross member causing a slight vibration / metallic noise which is mostly audible during higher revs.
An idea I had recently was to use a bit of exhaust wrap in that section to reduce or possibly eliminate the vibration and noise.
Curious, what kind of solution did you come up with for your swap?
Regarding all the comments and questions around the potential grinding that can occur during aggressive 1st to 2nd shifts:
I did notice some grinding when aggressively shifting from 1-2 in the early days of the swap. It's been a long time since i've had that happen ever since I slightly adjusted the ZHP shift knob and angled it toward the driver seat. Once I seated knob toward the driver seat and made sure to always shift 1-2 against the wall, it's never been a problem. This is with a UUC 330 SSK, which i'm honestly not a huge fan of. I run Motul Competition gear oil in the transmission. Just make sure to take it easy when its cold from 1-2. Autosolutions will probably be my next upgrade since the UUC SSK is very mediocre at best.
I've got 3 E46 M3's running around locally now on ZF 6MT gearboxes.
Maybe I've had better luck with used transmissions but none of them seem to be grinding from 1-2. I just put MTF-LT5 from the dealer in there, nothing special.
Mind you I'm also running stiffer engine and trans mounts on these cars, maybe that helps with the grind, less movement.
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There actually is some small weight savings: the tuned mass damper! That’s gotta be good for 3lbs. It’s located in literally the least impactful place to drop weight though.
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