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Tested and Ready 70° and 75° Thermostat

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by digger View Post

    No on almost everything you said. Those temps are only optimum for fuel efficiency and emmisions at cruise and light load which is the main goal of the OEMs. It is well known that lower coolant temperature makes more WOT power due to better knock resistance and improved VE due to increased charge density. Often you need to make changes to run colder to ensure proper mixtures, ignition timing, running clearances, and control friction losses due to potentially colder oil temps in certain conditions, so ideally you keep oil hot but colder coolant.

    Aero on F1 cars trump just about everything so they are choosing to run hot due to running small radiators for aero reasons. It is simply a by product of conflicting requirements and the ultimate goal for lower lap times not more power and aero is king and higher priority
    The whole running hotter thing makes zero sense. My car feels like trash when the coolant would get over 220f. Feels excellent at 170f. My top speed data backs this up. My lap times also support the engine runs better at when the coolant and oil temps are lower vs higher.

    F1 cars generally trim cooling when they run higher speed tracks like Monza.

    Leave a comment:


  • Anri
    replied
    Originally posted by digger View Post
    No on almost everything you said. Those temps are only optimum for fuel efficiency and emmisions at cruise and light load which is the main goal of the OEMs. It is well known that lower coolant temperature makes more WOT power due to better knock resistance and improved VE due to increased charge density. Often you need to make changes to run colder to ensure proper mixtures, ignition timing, running clearances, and control friction losses due to potentially colder oil temps in certain conditions, so ideally you keep oil hot but colder coolant.
    Digger,


    Spot on all of it Digger. When I did 55°C t-stat on
    our track E46M3 alongside with larger radiator
    70% distilled water and 30% coolant it did run
    tight very torque and running at near the max
    ignition it made big difference between the stock
    system and after.

    Absolutely yes on fuel economy. My E31 840Ci M62
    at summer time in traffic on AC running temp 115°C
    it does ping every singe time off traffic light, the T stat is
    97°C, let alone the power drops like its 4cylinder....it
    so bad..

    Updated the T-Stat to 71°C and no
    more pinging, soon the S62 is going
    in but still felt did not want to destroy
    the M62.

    Bank-2 on inline-6 runs always hot.

    On my S38 I have dual wide band on both
    banks separate. Bank-2 always run little hotter
    not by much than Bank-1 but my temps are in
    the ~75°C

    Another $2k and it will get me individual EGT
    probes for my upcoming 4.0l S38 to be able
    to monitor individually the EGTs and control
    the ignition timing on each cylinder.


    Regards,
    Anri
    Last edited by Anri; 03-02-2024, 04:26 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • digger
    replied
    Originally posted by sapote View Post

    The best opearting temp for internal combustion engine is 90C to 120C due to material fatigue and design clearance. In theory, the higher opearting temp is better as less loss to combustion temp and pressure needed to push the pistons down. Cool air/fuel mixture is desirable but it should be treated separately from coolant temp.

    So having a stable coolant temp at 85c or 90c is not bad, but when it continues to rise then it is bad.
    Again, I don't think having the Tstat opens early at 70c is good, but a 70c Tstat inherently opens more than the stock Tstat at 90c, and this allows more coolant flow through the radiator - it's what one wants to prevent overheat on the track.

    The ideal Tstat should not open until the coolant reached 90c, then continue to open more to keep the temp at 90c as the engine generating more heat. Unfortunately a classical spring loaded wax motor can't do this. Don't know why BMW didn't use an electric heater in the Tstat to control it as an "ideal Tstat" -- propably due to reliability issue.

    F1 cars have coolant opearing temp at 120C.
    No on almost everything you said. Those temps are only optimum for fuel efficiency and emmisions at cruise and light load which is the main goal of the OEMs. It is well known that lower coolant temperature makes more WOT power due to better knock resistance and improved VE due to increased charge density. Often you need to make changes to run colder to ensure proper mixtures, ignition timing, running clearances, and control friction losses due to potentially colder oil temps in certain conditions, so ideally you keep oil hot but colder coolant.

    Aero on F1 cars trump just about everything so they are choosing to run hot due to running small radiators for aero reasons. It is simply a by product of conflicting requirements and the ultimate goal for lower lap times not more power and aero is king and higher priority
    Last edited by digger; 03-02-2024, 02:31 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Anri
    replied
    Originally posted by sapote View Post
    The best opearting temp for internal combustion engine is 90C to 120C due to material fatigue and design clearance.
    Can you explain yourself in more deep technical details were did you
    read this or come up with these numbers ?

    If this is truth why all S engines do have T-stat at 79-80°C as opposite
    of M54 or say my E31 840Ci M62 at 105°C with thermostat of 97°C?

    Why BMW Motorsport made the 55°C on a car without AC condenser and
    all nicely ducted up the front ?


    Originally posted by sapote View Post
    F1 cars have coolant opearing temp at 120C.
    And how does F1 engine starts from cold ?! with coolant heated
    up to temps (I can find out asking Brian who is on F1 world) to be exact.

    F1 internal clearance are design to operate in specific conditions and they
    are only in hi revs.

    Regards
    Anri

    Leave a comment:


  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by digger View Post

    The early opening and lower operating temp is desirable from a pure perfomance persective though assuing some adjustments. if you arent able to consisently operate at the t-stat temp or thereabouts on track then it's fairly pointless
    The best opearting temp for internal combustion engine is 90C to 120C due to material fatigue and design clearance. In theory, the higher opearting temp is better as less loss to combustion temp and pressure needed to push the pistons down. Cool air/fuel mixture is desirable but it should be treated separately from coolant temp.


    So having a stable coolant temp at 85c or 90c is not bad, but when it continues to rise then it is bad.
    Again, I don't think having the Tstat opens early at 70c is good, but a 70c Tstat inherently opens more than the stock Tstat at 90c, and this allows more coolant flow through the radiator - it's what one wants to prevent overheat on the track.

    The ideal Tstat should not open until the coolant reached 90c, then continue to open more to keep the temp at 90c as the engine generating more heat. Unfortunately a classical spring loaded wax motor can't do this. Don't know why BMW didn't use an electric heater in the Tstat to control it as an "ideal Tstat" -- propably due to reliability issue.

    F1 cars have coolant opearing temp at 120C.

    Leave a comment:


  • Anri
    replied
    Gents,

    To each to our won for sure on this one.
    Not very constructive replies..

    Inline 6 cylinder engine Cast Iron block
    is waaaaay too long.

    When the cooled water from the radiator
    enters from the cylinder 1 it takes the heat
    up to cylinder 3 aka Bank-1

    Starting from Bank-2, 4-6, the water already
    took the heat from Bank-1. Now Bank-2
    has Hot water to work with and its no longer
    cool when it entered the block.

    Factory design water pump impeller and
    pulley ratios are designed to work at 8000rpm
    without making Cavitation, this is the concentration
    I am sure we all agree on this one. Mechanical
    pump are always concentrated to work at hi rpm
    and low rpms are always compromised. (this is
    were the Electrical water pump is priceless one
    can adjust the flow at low speed to move the
    water faster)

    Lower range of RPM is compromised when
    the water is slowed down tremendously and
    thus why Bank-2 works always hot vs Bank-1

    Obvious reason why BMW moved to step water
    temp gauge starting from E32/E34. On the E24
    E28 when the temp raised degree by degree I can see it
    on the gauge..I can see when the clutch engages and
    brings the temps down...isn't that obvious ? all the S54
    cylinder head gaskets are always burned at Bank-2 okay
    not talking about the ones that suffered damages
    via detonation.

    Why BMW put the EGT sensor on Bank-2 not Bank-1 ?
    Bank-2 runs always hot

    The Block Deck height on S54 is 217.5mm+/-
    How come no one talks about that BMW Motorsport
    raised the Floor by around 15-17mm ? (I have to look at my notes)
    its to increase the rigidity in the main bearings
    area by taking some space form the water bath.

    On S38 at the same deck height of 217.5mm the water
    bath is deeper down by those 15-17mm is what I am
    comparing with so they did good on block from 1965
    but went backward on 2000 engine block.

    With connecting rod ratio of 1.52 the siamesed
    bores do receive a lot of heat and with the combo
    of 8000rpm for sure its Heat-Bomb

    How come no one talks about that the EGT from
    the headers which easily reaches ~850/~1000F/ 590°C or
    so are located around no more than 1 finger away
    from the block, fantastic, you have 900F radiant heat
    going directly to the cast iron heat sponge.

    I will provide very deep detail data on Jonathan's
    freshly put S54 together, you will see.

    Starting from Jonathans M3 I am including this in every
    engine build.

    All arguments and debates are all welcomed.

    Regards,
    Anri
    Last edited by Anri; 03-02-2024, 12:55 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • digger
    replied
    Originally posted by sapote View Post

    It's not the 70 Tstat early opening is desirable, but it opens more at operating temp when compared to stock Tstat is desirable.
    The early opening and lower operating temp is desirable from a pure perfomance persective though assuing some adjustments. if you arent able to consisently operate at the t-stat temp or thereabouts on track then it's fairly pointless

    Leave a comment:


  • sapote
    replied
    Originally posted by nahvkolaj View Post
    Not sure I understand. Isn't the engine designed to be most efficient at 80 degrees? Willing to learn.
    Yes for stock car for normal driving. On race track the AC condenser blocks some air, and the engine generates more heat, so a 70C Tstat would open more at 80C for more coolant flow to counter the higher generated heat.

    It's not the 70 Tstat early opening is desirable, but it opens more at operating temp when compared to stock Tstat is desirable.
    Last edited by sapote; 03-01-2024, 11:21 AM.

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  • nahvkolaj
    replied
    Not sure I understand. Isn't the engine designed to be most efficient at 80 degrees? Willing to learn.

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    I think for a track car with the AC removed and has a properly performing cooling system, I'd would recommend the stock 80 deg t-stat. My coolant temps bounce around 170 degrees so the t-stat is opening and closing.

    But for a track car with AC...I think 70deg would work great.

    Leave a comment:


  • ChapterM3
    replied
    Doesn't surprise me one bit, can't wait to see what you've come up with Anri!

    Leave a comment:


  • simonnim
    replied
    Love it. Look forward to it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Anri
    started a topic Tested and Ready 70° and 75° Thermostat

    Tested and Ready 70° and 75° Thermostat

    Gents,

    I added 75° options as well for Cold states.

    The 70°-75° are all tested and it works great and no Check engine Light
    is triggered so no need for adjustments in the ECU.

    After many tests here is the data from the OEM spec:
    At 80° Opens 1mm at 80°, 83°~3mm at 85° is fully open
    Completely Closed at 77° +/-1°

    ​70°. At 70° opens 1mm at 73° ~3mm at 75° fully open
    Completely closed at 66° +/-1°

    75° is right in between the OEM and the 70°.

    $220 Shipped


    Regards,
    Anri.
    Last edited by Anri; 05-04-2025, 12:00 PM.
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