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H&R springs or Eibach springs?
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Eibachs are vastly superior to H&R's, unless your preference is to have the car sit as low as possible on springs, only.
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My car is a garage queen and they hardly have 4k miles on them. But they are about 5 years old so anything is possible.Originally posted by D-O View PostI would not be surprised if the OP discovers that the Eibach dampers are leaking. My rears only lasted about 23K before the seals gave up. Eibach was not at all helpful. They were just out of warranty - fair enough - but they would not sell me new replacements and wanted a long time and a kings ransom to rebuild them. I went with TCK SA.
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I would not be surprised if the OP discovers that the Eibach dampers are leaking. My rears only lasted about 23K before the seals gave up. Eibach was not at all helpful. They were just out of warranty - fair enough - but they would not sell me new replacements and wanted a long time and a kings ransom to rebuild them. I went with TCK SA.
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So true ! I paid a pretty penny for the Z4M front shock mounts last year. Parts prices that are unique to that car are creeping up really quick or going NLA. I need to start hoarding some Z4M and E46M parts while they can still be had.Originally posted by Xmetal View Post
Tell me about BMW prices
I just replaced dampers on my Z4M and all the related comsumerables/hardware (top hats, bearings, bumpstops, spring pads, etc) cost as much as the dampers themself! I guessed it's the cost of owning an older BMW these days 
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Tell me about BMW pricesOriginally posted by Maxima SE View PostI am probably mistaken then. For some reason I thought it was attached to the shock body itself... It has been a while since I installed the eibach coilovers and forgot these little details haha
The BMW prices on these OE bump stops, front spring insulator and misc hardware is killing me right now. Thank goodness my front upper mounts have like 4k miles on them. Those things have sky rocket in price
I just replaced dampers on my Z4M and all the related comsumerables/hardware (top hats, bearings, bumpstops, spring pads, etc) cost as much as the dampers themself! I guessed it's the cost of owning an older BMW these days
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I am probably mistaken then. For some reason I thought it was attached to the shock body itself... It has been a while since I installed the eibach coilovers and forgot these little details haha
The BMW prices on these OE bump stops, front spring insulator and misc hardware is killing me right now. Thank goodness my front upper mounts have like 4k miles on them. Those things have sky rocket in priceLast edited by Maxima SE; 07-29-2024, 03:21 PM.
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I don't think any struts come with brackets, you re-use the existing bracket that gets sandwiched in the clam shell clamp.
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The bracket is normally a bolt on piece.Originally posted by Maxima SE View PostKind of disappointed the front Koni shocks don't have the retainer bracket for the brake lines and brake pad sensor though. My Eibach coilovers have those.
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34526780592 RightLast edited by heinzboehmer; 07-29-2024, 02:48 PM.
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I've been riding on Koni yellows and H&R sport springs for awhile. I have no real concept of what is comfortable but it's fairly stiff (I forgot what rebound settings I have them on as well) but I will say the drop height is perfect. I have 15mm/10mm spacers and it's perfectly flush with the ride height that I was looking for.
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Konis definitely should have the bracket. Are you sure you got the right ones?Originally posted by Maxima SE View PostGot the Koni/ Eibach kit from turner while it was on sale. Will install them in the next two weeks and report back if they are more comfortable than the Eibach coilovers. Kind of disappointed the front Koni shocks don't have the retainer bracket for the brake lines and brake pad sensor though. My Eibach coilovers have those.
and BMW prices for the front upper spring pad is insane nowadays. Any have good luck with the URO spring pads for front and rear? Theyre dirty cheap but not sure if they will fall apart after a couple of years.
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Got the Koni/ Eibach kit from turner while it was on sale. Will install them in the next two weeks and report back if they are more comfortable than the Eibach coilovers. Kind of disappointed the front Koni shocks don't have the retainer bracket for the brake lines and brake pad sensor though. My Eibach coilovers have those.
and BMW prices for the front upper spring pad is insane nowadays. Any have good luck with the URO spring pads for front and rear? Theyre dirty cheap but not sure if they will fall apart after a couple of years.
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Not sure if you've documented this elsewhere, but how did you go about doing so? Seems like camber plates would be the way to go then up front, as I don't feel much issue with travel in the rear with regards to crashiness.Originally posted by maupineda View PostI maybe alone, but I tuned my setup to maintain the factory bump travel and bump stop lengths. If you are stubborn to lower the car, run a different top hat and keep suspension geometry as factory.
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yea thanks for pm but it wouldnt let me respond to that either, maybe can you please pm me your email , telegram , whats app , anything you prefer . i had a question about the nav wiring in these cars.Originally posted by K-Dawg View Post
I think OP is experiencing pitch, which makes the car feel stiff and bouncy.
OP, you could also try front springs of 300lb/in or less in the front and 600lb/in in the rear which would likely improve your comfort and performance significantly.
The stock springs, Eibach Pro-Kit springs and Dinan springs all give you flat ride as long as you aren't on the bumpstops.
FWIW, my Bilstein B6/Eibach (B12) setup is closer to the pre-Eibach height of the car in that video.
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Koni:
” Thank you for choosing KONI shocks. Yes, the factory length bumpstops are to be reused with the Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs for the M3. When trimming of the OE bump stops, or shorter bump stop are required Eibach will note this modification in their installation instructions, or included the shorter aftermarket stops.”
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I maybe alone, but I tuned my setup to maintain the factory bump travel and bump stop lengths. If you are stubborn to lower the car, run a different top hat and keep suspension geometry as factory.
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