Moroso Aluminum Expansion Tank

[HighOnLSB]

Hey mate - it doesn't sit any lower and uses the exact same mounting bracket etc as the stock tank so doesn't give you any more flexibility with regards to clearance over the stock tank. like if you could modify the bracket to make this sit lower you could equally achieve that with the stock tank. I'd say you are likely stuck in the space of having to custom fabricate a tank depending on how much clearance you need.

Appreciate the first hand information, this is what I was starting to fear based on what I could see from all the photos I could find online. It is not an immediate issue, there is just enough clearance currently, but a couple more mm would be nice just to be safe. At least I don't have to worry about replacing a fairly fresh OEM tank without reason now.

[STAATS]

Is anyone running this tank able to tell if it sits any lower than the OEM expansion tank does, or if the mounting bracket can be modified to sit lower? Looking to increase the clearance between my expansion tank cap and hood vents.

Hey mate - it doesn't sit any lower and uses the exact same mounting bracket etc as the stock tank so doesn't give you any more flexibility with regards to clearance over the stock tank. like if you could modify the bracket to make this sit lower you could equally achieve that with the stock tank. I'd say you are likely stuck in the space of having to custom fabricate a tank depending on how much clearance you need.

[HighOnLSB]

Is anyone running this tank able to tell if it sits any lower than the OEM expansion tank does, or if the mounting bracket can be modified to sit lower? Looking to increase the clearance between my expansion tank cap and hood vents.

[STAATS]

Exactly my sentiment. I replaced the ET at the same time I replaced the rad with a KoyoRad and added the mishimoto electric fan kit (with relay). Figured if I'm going to overhaul the cooling for track reliability I'm best off going full tilt--and like you said the ET essentially has no downsides and I don't need to worry about it. I followed your lead on the sensor/bung, so thanks for the R&D so to speak .

Haha no probs - I'm just happy for once I could do the leg work and provide the R&D for the community after all the ideas and DIY's I've taken from here from others

[bryce2113]

This is identical to how I did mine - Deutsche connector and sensor mount location and all - only different was I left way more of a pig tail on my sensor but that was OTT of me so it doesn't look as neat as this. They really should offer this as a standard for this tank or at the very least provide it as an option. It takes all of the downsides except for "weight" out of the equation but I don't think the weight difference is huge and when you consider, providing you don't have a crash, this is basically a for life part (aside from replacing the sensor or cap as they age), then I think its not bad all round, I'm definitely happy with mine

Exactly my sentiment. I replaced the ET at the same time I replaced the rad with a KoyoRad and added the mishimoto electric fan kit (with relay). Figured if I'm going to overhaul the cooling for track reliability I'm best off going full tilt--and like you said the ET essentially has no downsides and I don't need to worry about it. I followed your lead on the sensor/bung, so thanks for the R&D so to speak .

[STAATS]

Just finished adding the Moroso tank with the Moroso weld-in level sensor. Turned out great and really a pretty easy add-in if you can weld or know someone who can. Used some Deutsche connectors to use the stock wiring. Works like a charm.

This is identical to how I did mine - Deutsche connector and sensor mount location and all - only different was I left way more of a pig tail on my sensor but that was OTT of me so it doesn't look as neat as this. They really should offer this as a standard for this tank or at the very least provide it as an option. It takes all of the downsides except for "weight" out of the equation but I don't think the weight difference is huge and when you consider, providing you don't have a crash, this is basically a for life part (aside from replacing the sensor or cap as they age), then I think its not bad all round, I'm definitely happy with mine

[bryce2113]

Just finished adding the Moroso tank with the Moroso weld-in level sensor. Turned out great and really a pretty easy add-in if you can weld or know someone who can. Used some Deutsche connectors to use the stock wiring. Works like a charm.

[usdmej]

I just shorted the wires on that so no dash light... I do eventually intend to try come up with a sensor setup so I can have it working again... but its no where near as important as the Coolant one was...

thanks for the info! i'm guessing if you don't short the wires and leave the washer sensor unplugged it will trigger a dash light since the level sensor appears to be an on/off switch

[ZHPizza]

I believe the stock level sensor is just a Reed relay that has a mechanical contact closed or opened based on the present of the magnetic field. There is a magnet ring on the tank level popper to trigger the Reed relay. It's not a capacitive sensor.

Ah gotcha. Didn't know there was a float inside the tank. Thanks for clarifying.

[sapote]

Answering this one because I recently got trained on capacitive sensors. In order to work through a tank wall, the media has to have a higher dielectric constant than the tank material (works great for detecting water in a plastic tank). All metals essentially have an infinite dielectric constant so capacitive sensors will not work with any sort of metal tank.

I believe the stock level sensor is just a Reed relay that has a mechanical contact closed or opened based on the present of the magnetic field. There is a magnet ring on the tank level popper to trigger the Reed relay. It's not a capacitive sensor.

[ZHPizza]

3) Why couldn't they use the stock bottom non-contact level sensor? Magnetic field will work through aluminum.

Answering this one because I recently got trained on capacitive sensors. In order to work through a tank wall, the media has to have a higher dielectric constant than the tank material (works great for detecting water in a plastic tank). All metals essentially have an infinite dielectric constant so capacitive sensors will not work with any sort of metal tank.

[STAATS]

1) Anyone know if the stock level switch also has the same 15sec delay from switch to the display? I think the delay is the result of the DME low pass filter software process to avoid rough riding causing fault triggering.

2) the aluminum tank is bullet proof, but the plastic level sensor is the new weak link. Does it use an exposed micro switch (wet in coolant) or a kind of sealed switch? Sealing the metal parts of the switch or the wires from leaking along the plastic molding is not easy as it aged. Plastic don't bond well to metal for a good seal under many heat cycles and pressurized coolant. Time will tell.

3) Why couldn't they use the stock bottom non-contact level sensor? Magnetic field will work through aluminum.

1) the 15sec delay is in the DME so yes using the aftermarket sensor still has the 15sec delay

2) agreed the sensor is now the weak point. it is a sealed magnetic switch. if it fails and triggers a light you can just plug the sensor bung until you get a new one... vs if you have stock tank and you need to replace the whole thing... i am not particularly concerned about the sensor being some kind of weak point now, my concern and reason for going to ally tank was to avoid a catastrophic split and sudden loss of coolant, the failure mode of the sensor to leak should be slower and picked up by the sensor itself... I mean its not like we have entirely bulletproofed the system, there is still rubber houses with plastic fittings so...

3) there is nothing stopping you from using the stock bottom non-contact level sensor aside from install complexity. The sensor we used was easy to install and integrate and replace in future if needed. The stock switch has a weird connection I am not sure how to modify the tank to suit that sensor... otherwise I would have....

[sapote]

I think the reason that non-M cars have more ruptured tanks is that people didn't bleed it properly leading to localized boiling around exhaust valves, which created a lot of gas and high pressure ruptured the tank; the soft aluminum block threads and the bleeding problem combined causing combustion gas leaked into coolant system, then ruptured tank; these engines run hotter than M3. The 2 bar relief cap might not work fast enough for this case.

[sapote]

Well just completed the first test - so the sensor reacts as expected. When the float opens the switch the dash displays the coolant level warning light. When the float closes the switch the dash coolant level warning light clears. There is a ~15sec delay between changing from open/close status to the dash reacting with the appropriate warning light or clearing of warning light.

So I can confirm this switch will successfully integrate with the stock wiring and dash system. Good start.

1) Anyone know if the stock level switch also has the same 15sec delay from switch to the display? I think the delay is the result of the DME low pass filter software process to avoid rough riding causing fault triggering.

2) the aluminum tank is bullet proof, but the plastic level sensor is the new weak link. Does it use an exposed micro switch (wet in coolant) or a kind of sealed switch? Sealing the metal parts of the switch or the wires from leaking along the plastic molding is not easy as it aged. Plastic don't bond well to metal for a good seal under many heat cycles and pressurized coolant. Time will tell.

3) Why couldn't they use the stock bottom non-contact level sensor? Magnetic field will work through aluminum.

[EnzoAtMonza]

I have done the same just shorted wires but I do have the morroso sensor I was going to try at some point.