Originally posted by usdmej
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Moroso Aluminum Expansion Tank
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I just shorted the wires on that so no dash light... I do eventually intend to try come up with a sensor setup so I can have it working again... but its no where near as important as the Coolant one was...
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curious when switching to the chase bays washer tank if you simply left your washer fluid level sensor unplugged? if so, did it throw any dash lights?Originally posted by EnzoAtMonza View PostI finished mine in a wrinkle black, haven't filled the system yet but looks good to me.
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I haven't filled it yet unfortunately but have the smaller hose on hand. Had to relocate due to my brake ducts, picked up a set of kevar ducts from the Turner gs car from back in the day. They are a little on the large size so compromises are being made.
Jeff
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Nice setup. The use of AN line looks neat. Also like the headlight washer tank... you're the only other person I've seen use that Chase Bays tank haha. How have you dealt with the slightly lower pressure eon the headlight washer? Apparently rental we need to reduce our line size near the sprayers to get stock pressure... I havent bothered as its good enough but if someone finds an easy way then ill copy haha
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I finished mine in a wrinkle black, haven't filled the system yet but looks good to me.2 Photos
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Awesome mate - that's two of us that now have an aluminium expansion tank without any downsides yew.
I probably should have confirmed in my last post that thread tape should be applied 3-7 loops against the rotation of the thread to work effectively so sorry you had to chase me up separately for that clarification.
Who else is going to jump on the band wagon now? haha
My next Coolant elated project is to add a coolant drain line off the black coolant drain port... I saw someone else do that on either ere or M3Cutters and thin thats genius... He just used an AN cap but, I want to try setup an AN valve panel mounted then with a cap... just havent found an appropriate place yet... and have other more important jobs like a custom tune and Cobra Nogaros to look at next haha
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My Moroso coolant tank is in. Ran the car up to temp last night and the coolant level sensor leaked. STAATS reminded me to wind the coolant sensor threads 3-7 times with PTFE tape instead of the single loop I did. All fixed now with no leak.
Feff
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Another update to try help make sure people don't make the same stupid mistake as me haha. I stupidly (well I guess not stupidly as there is precedent for the thought process) thought that because the Moroso sensor was plastic and the sensor bung was aluminium that this would directly seal as is... but after a few days I noticed small puddles of coolant below my car and saw a tiny leak at the bottom of the sensor... So I have pulled it out and re-made the joint with thread tape as is usually the standard for NPT fittings (although normally its to provide a soft seal so normally when you have a plastic thread it kinda does the job of thread tape)... Anyway I chose to use a rated Gas pipe PTFE tape as i like using things that have to meet a standard vs standard run of the mill thread tape... but i will see how it goes just to make sure it actually wasnt another issue... but I am 99.9% sure I just needed to seal the threads correctly so for those of you playing at home... thread tape!
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Haha no probs man... its kinda stupid they don't offer it at least as an option in place of the sight glass considering they have the part and it'd be the same amount of work... No I have done it all and proved it works someone should definately give them a nudge to replace the sight glass with their level sensor or offer it as an option sight glass or sensor... or I guess you could push them to do it the way I did and have both but I imagine thatd pump the price up a bit.Originally posted by Feffman View Post
And the crowd said "YEAH!" Thanks for the update STAATS.
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And the crowd said "YEAH!" Thanks for the update STAATS.Originally posted by STAATS View PostOkay i have just updated the album of some photos of the Moroso tank installed in the car with the level sensor in place... I have also filled the coolant and checked the dash light and it is all working... very very happy with the result:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZymxiXvSRgXZsQpW6
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Okay i have just updated the album of some photos of the Moroso tank installed in the car with the level sensor in place... I have also filled the coolant and checked the dash light and it is all working... very very happy with the result:
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Okay its taken forever but i finally have it welded into the tank. Check the latest photos in the album:
I also modified the bracket it sits on so I can now mount my Chase Bays Windscreen Washer tank in place of the SAP. If anyone is interested in that I can get that up in another thread.
Once I re-install Ill get some more pictures and confirm all is still working but it looks like I should be all set with a Moroso ET and a working dash warning light again
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Yer not sure everyones beef with the Moroso tank is... no one is trying to say its the best option out there its just an option thast perfectly fine and aside from weight (which is negligible compared to the pros the ally brings over plastic I believe) and cost the only beef is the coolant warning which once I install my Moroso sensor, goes away... then its a sunk cost I dont have to worry about anymore... I decided to trade a few 100 grams and some extra cash to never have to replace the ET ever again... thats a proposition that stacked up for me but may not stack up for others... Also if it even saves me having to pay to tow the car off a Tarmac Rally stage at the end of the day just once then it will have paid for itself financially so hahaOriginally posted by bigjae46 View PostThe Non-Ms have an issue with the ETs because the ET sits against the hot end of the radiator AND (if equipped) has transmission cooler nearby. The non-M ETs see a lot more heat. The M3 tanks don't have this as a common issue. I wouldn't just go replace the OE tank but if mine were old or already split then why not?
I used a custom Canton Racing 2qt tank in the drug bin. It makes a significant difference with coolant temperatures since its a large aluminum heatsink. Combined with deleting the heater core loop, my water temps maybe get up to 205 degrees.
AND...you can use a higher pressure cap for more boilover protection. Good for a track car.

I've thought about welding a custom bung on the bottom of the tank and using the E36 coolant level sender. The E36 sender has a large threaded nut.
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The Non-Ms have an issue with the ETs because the ET sits against the hot end of the radiator AND (if equipped) has transmission cooler nearby. The non-M ETs see a lot more heat. The M3 tanks don't have this as a common issue. I wouldn't just go replace the OE tank but if mine were old or already split then why not?
I used a custom Canton Racing 2qt tank in the drug bin. It makes a significant difference with coolant temperatures since its a large aluminum heatsink. Combined with deleting the heater core loop, my water temps maybe get up to 205 degrees.
AND...you can use a higher pressure cap for more boilover protection. Good for a track car.

I've thought about welding a custom bung on the bottom of the tank and using the E36 coolant level sender. The E36 sender has a large threaded nut.
Last edited by bigjae46; 08-08-2020, 03:05 PM.
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It looks like bmw glued the two sides together and the glue failed. I'll probably throw it away but it looks like it could be easily repaired.
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