E86 Front Triangulation Braces Retrofit

[heinzboehmer]

Question - what is it about these nuts that make them not work with the press-in studs until you've run the tap through them?

The thread profile geometry is slightly different between the stock and replacement studs.

Stock nuts are designed for rolled thread studs and the threads on the press in studs are cut.

Some discussion on that topic here: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...288#post312288

[karter16]

Question - what is it about these nuts that make them not work with the press-in studs until you've run the tap through them?

[bigjae46]

Nice! I would love to do this someday.

I keep forgetting to weigh that that stuff, was going to do that, do you think a regular bathroom scale is accurate enough?

Maybe stand on the scale then hold the item? Sometimes I wonder if those scales are less accurate at the bottom end of their range.

Bathroom scale is accurate enough. I use one of those hanging scales and it is consistent with the bathroom scale.

[heinzboehmer]

Thanks all, hoping the documentation helps drive adoption of similar modifications on more cars!

Nice! I would love to do this someday.

I keep forgetting to weigh that that stuff, was going to do that, do you think a regular bathroom scale is accurate enough?

Maybe stand on the scale then hold the item? Sometimes I wonder if those scales are less accurate at the bottom end of their range.

I weighed everything with a kitchen/coffee scale to get precision down to within a gram. A bit tricky to balance everything on it, but doable. Shipping scale is by far the easiest and most reliable tool for the job though.

Don't think your typical bathroom scale will work well here. I'm expecting the weight of the part to be in the 2-3 kg range, which is likely within the real world tolerance range of that type of scale (unless you have some fancy, high precision bathroom scale ).

[Will]

Amazing work, it looks fantastic - looks OE! Thanks for documenting and sharing with everyone.

[Cubieman]

Nice! I would love to do this someday.

I keep forgetting to weigh that that stuff, was going to do that, do you think a regular bathroom scale is accurate enough?

Maybe stand on the scale then hold the item? Sometimes I wonder if those scales are less accurate at the bottom end of their range.

[0-60motorsports]

Looks amazing and stock

[heinzboehmer]

Got the braces and brackets back from cerakote today, which means this project is officially finished!

Here's some engine bay shots:





Only thing missing from the documentation is the weight of the stock cabin air filter housing. Hoping someone can help out here, for completeness. Maybe George Hill or karter16?

[heinzboehmer]

Weighed the final parts today. Here's where we landed at:



(sorry if it's a bit hard to read, I think I tried to stuff too much info into this table)

I unfortunately do not have my stock cabin air filter housing anymore (I chopped it up), so I can't weigh that. Going off of the RealOEM value makes it look like this project results in a net decrease in weight. Excellent!

Can someone help me by weighing their stock housing? Here's a comprehensive list of the components that I put on the scale. Would be great to do the same with the stock part for max apples-to-apples-ness:

- Housing
- Hood gasket
- Both water drain boots
- Air filter
- Filter cover
- Half of cable tray attached to housing
- Half of cable tray that snaps on
- T30 screws

[George Hill]

I’ll report back as soon as possible, looks rad though

[heinzboehmer]

Alright, have fun prototyping George Hill: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/fb...5f06a7a75341ec

You can export the .step/.stl files from the link above.

Also, I was curious, so I quoted the parts on sendcutsend. 7075 isn't really bendable, so I quoted in mild steel:



Price for one set is $57.58. Here's the same parts, but in higher quantities:



Drops down to $26.21 per set if you get 10 made. Downside is that post welding, rivnuts and powder coating, you're looking at almost twice the weight of the 7075 machined version.

Also, worth repeating in case others stumble upon this post in isolation: these are very rough prototypes with zero analysis or validation behind them. Do not blindly trust them.

[heinzboehmer]

im not exactly sure I follow your idea of bolting. So you mean drill through the cowl and insert bolts from the top down? The head of the bolt would sit under the cowl trim?

Yep! Exactly.

If you go the opposite direction, you'd end up with a rivnut (or the end of a rivet) in between the cowl and the chassis. I don't think there's gonna be enough space for that.

Actually I think I have an old one too I could probably section so we can see what the clearance is.

Ooh that would work too.

[George Hill]

heinzboehmer totally fair on the CAD file, that makes complete sense.

im not exactly sure I follow your idea of bolting. So you mean drill through the cowl and insert bolts from the top down? The head of the bolt would sit under the cowl trim?

I do have a cowl here. Actually I think I have an old one too I could probably section so we can see what the clearance is.

[heinzboehmer]

Actually, George Hill, do you have a cowl handy? Would be interesting to put some silicone mold putty down in between the chassis and the cowl and let it cure. Just to see how much clearance there actually is in between the two parts.

Cowl goes above the windshield and chassis dips down below. It's possible there's just barely enough space for a couple hex head bolts.

[heinzboehmer]

Heinz, would you be able to upload that sheet metal design to the drive? I'm curious what it would cost from SCS.

I'm hesitant to upload it because it's a very rough, back-of-the-napkin draft with absolutely zero validation. Wouldn't want someone to see it and assume it's tested, like the rest of the stuff in there.

I can spin off a copy of the CAD of that design for prototyping, though. Will do so when I get home and link it here.

Miles of room from the interior side without the heater case installed.



Also, I have a swivel head rivet gun. Without the S54 plenum installed I wonder if you could access it and rivet from the engine bay?

Wow! That's way more space than I expected.

Do swivel head rivnut tools exist? IMO, if you're going to the trouble of finding a way to drill holes for rivets, might as well drill them big enough to use rivnuts in the rear, for max serviceability.

Front would likely still need regular rivets because of interference with the cowl, but you can install those from the top, with the head of the rivet ending up sandwiched between the cowl and chassis.

Looking back through pictures, I think you can fit a right angle drill from the front with the blower motor out of the way: