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Yea, i pitted the first time the temps got high but stayed on with cool down laps afterwards. I was hoping to push off radiator/oil cooler till winter. I think I’ll add a little more water to the mixture and run as is till then.Originally posted by M3tro81 View Post
might be better to stay out on track but short shift. Keeps the benefit you get of increased airflow. Before my cooling system refresh at VIR in summer I would see temps like yours, back out of it for 1/2 - 3/4 of a lap and then typically be full up for the rest of the session.
I’ve since upgraded with new water pump, Koyorad rad, CSF oil cooler, BW silicone hoses and all new seals/orings.
I think i was pushing a little too hard being the first event of the year. Although with 3.5 secs improvement, it was worth it?!?
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Also forgot to mention under drive pulleys were added recently. I’m guessing this exposed the cooling system issue as it’s the only real change that directly effects the cooling system.
Any recs on radiators?
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might be better to stay out on track but short shift. Keeps the benefit you get of increased airflow. Before my cooling system refresh at VIR in summer I would see temps like yours, back out of it for 1/2 - 3/4 of a lap and then typically be full up for the rest of the session.Originally posted by jk715 View Postrecently at the track after 2 sessions temp starting going up and reached 230f at one point. Had to pit and let the temps get back below 200f before going back out.
I’ve since upgraded with new water pump, Koyorad rad, CSF oil cooler, BW silicone hoses and all new seals/orings.
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I did check for oil and coolant mixtures and looked clean. Compression check will be done next time the covers off.Originally posted by FBloggs View Post
I think you'd be correct to be concerned...A lengthy block, and cylinder head, I'd be worried about the head gasket.
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Sounds like a cooling system refresh is in order. I have the refresh kit minus radiator at this point. Is OEM radiator sufficient? Should i be looking at aftermarket? Any recommendations?
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I think you'd be correct to be concerned...A lengthy block, and cylinder head, I'd be worried about the head gasket.Originally posted by jk715 View PostAround town temps read 180-190 f when it’s 80f -83f outside. recently at the track after 2 sessions temp starting going up and reached 230f at one point. Had to pit and let the temps get back below 200f before going back out. Oil temps were fine.
Is it time for a new radiator? Seems to be fine driving around town.
Ran fine last month in 65f weather. But also added CSL airbox since then.
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And there you have it.Originally posted by Obioban View PostIf your coolant temps are elevating, it’s time for a cooling system refresh. Stock/healthy, they don’t really move.
Curious as to why? Been running it in an all-aluminum setup (block, heads, rad) for 20 years and never had a hint of an issue. I've had race engine builders recommend it. I've done this in 50/50 mix setups (coolant/water) and pure water + water wetter (or equivalent).Originally posted by Obioban View PostDon’t subject your engine to water wetter if you can avoid it.
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If your coolant temps are elevating, it’s time for a cooling system refresh. Stock/healthy, they don’t really move.
Don’t subject your engine to water wetter if you can avoid it.
Oil temps elevating on track is normal. Coolant is not.
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I'm on the same boat except it was 90+ today in Boston. I'm driving on the highway and kinda messing around. My oil temp gets up but my coolant temp was getting up there. I haven't seen that before however I was running water wetter prior to this coolant flush. I'm thinking going for a CSF but eh.
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ambient was at 83F at the track. Oil temps were close to 3/4 on the gauge. Would be great to get oil temp readings into torque app via custom PIDs, if anyone knows how.
I'll give water wetter a try. I assume it's safe to mix with the bmw 50/50 coolant. I guess I can test it out around town with back to back comparisons. I'll post results/logs here.
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I haven't run the s54 on track, but have run V8s DOHC motors extensively. Others may have more to say on this with directly relevant experience, but...
230 is on the higher side, but not ridiculous. Do you know what your oil temps are? I'd pay attention to both.
These cars run THICK oil. Takes a while for the oil to come up to temp, but harder to cool once it's there. Some people I know will run a slightly thinner oil just because of that.
Are you running an additive like Water Wetter or similar? Toss a bottle in if not. It will help more than you might think.
What were the ambient temps on track?
For reference, with a highly modded Ford Cobra 4.6l V8 that spins to 7200 (400hp crank), typically the oil is 230-235 and the water is 215-225. Runs there all day long at race conditions.
I wouldnt think you'd want to keep the temps there for a long time, but I'd also see if you can get info from someone that runs these motors. Maybe give Rogue Engineering a call if no one here has better info than what I can provide. Ask them what weight oil they run too. Get some additive.
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Coolant temp at track
Around town temps read 180-190 f when it’s 80f -83f outside. recently at the track after 2 sessions temp starting going up and reached 230f at one point. Had to pit and let the temps get back below 200f before going back out. Oil temps were fine.
Is it time for a new radiator? Seems to be fine driving around town.
Ran fine last month in 65f weather. But also added CSL airbox since then.Last edited by jk715; 06-19-2020, 05:46 PM.Tags: None

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