Liquimoly Ceratec

[jacketedlobster]

Appreciate all the help.

And know it's a gamble without just cracking open the motor.

My previous car was a 02' Carbon Black / Dove/ SMG. 2 Owner, 170K mile car, original bearings. Got it for cheap enough that it was worth the experience, but knew it wasn't the car to put the money into. 100% stock, no specialty preventative.

I'll hold off on the additives and save the cash for the full job. Already pieced together my kit, went ACL bearings.

Can I turn this into an oil thread... Liqui Moly vs Motul 8100?

[Syfon]

no amount of MoS2 or ceratec will prevent you from a blown motor at 109k. park it till you do the rod bearings, your car is a ticking time bomb at this point..... yes many have made it to over 150k on factory installed bearings but people have also blown motors before 100k too

This.

Mine spun rod # 3 bearing at 93k km. Yeah I drive it hard, but i've owned for 5+ years, oil changed every 5k km, etc. Sent off oil analysis to Blackstone the 2 oil changes before it spun. No abnormal readings with wear metals etc. These motors can and will spin a bearing without much notice.

What I'm saying is save the $$ and have the bearings done or you run the risk of going down the path of a full engine rebuild.

[Arith2]

Oil analysis can't tell you the condition of your engine or bearings. In my opinion, it's a waste of money like oil additives.

There are just so many missing data points and you have metal sitting at the bottom of your pan where a lot of metal is probably going. This is not coming out with an oil change. Also, if something is larger than 5 microns, they don't measure it. The only way to know the condition of your bearings is to look at them with your eyeballs. People have perfect analysis with trash bearings and aweful ones with good bearings. If copper is wearing, you would think it'd be in the report. It's because it isn't accurate. The copper didn't evaporate when it wore off the bearings.

If you want a real test of how long bearings last, mutiple engines are needed and the conditions have to match almost perfectly between them all. Every single drive must be around the same temp at the same speed, under the same load. The bearings should be measured often, examined regularly, and oil should then be tested for viscosity and boiling points at multiple intervals. If the oils vary, then new oil, produced in the same batch, should replace it. This would be something we could get behind as a community but who has thousands of dollars to perform this? I don't expect anyone to undergo this.

We talk about using facts but there's so much that is subjective here. We all have opinions but we have no real scientific data proving MOS2 or oil analysis work as "advertised". Therefore, my opinion is that the are a waste.

[Icecream]

Lastly, the engine appears to spin-up just a hair quicker after Ceratec & MoS2; the lower coolant temperature and the zingy-er feeling makes some sense. This is good enough for me, and I am under no delusion that an oil treatment will not fix, not repair worn metallic parts; believing so, in my opinion, is unsound reasoning.

Not buying it. That would mean a very VERY significant decrease in friction and a significant boost in HP. If it was that good, it would be in every high performance oil (I guess MoS2 is, unless its liqui moly lol) and every race car. It claims to stop metal on metal contact but last time I checked, regular motor oil does the same thing. And what the heck is up with them not having moly in their oil yet call themselves, liqui moly, loco.
All, ALL of these additives are unicorn oil milked straight from their horns. They prey on buyers that want to believe and give them the "feel goods" for "caring" for their "baby" by using "special sauce" developed and tested in "labs" under "special" conditions to give special "results".
To each their own, I just don't get it.

[Albino09]

Should I go all in and just add the Ceratec, or wait until my analysis is back on the off chance it shows no copper?

Don't know what you mean by "all-in", because changing your oil isn't going to save your bearings if they're worn out. These engines eat bearings. There's not much that can be done except to monitor the oil reports and plan for a bearing change when it's appropriate.

[Obioban]

Coolant temps indicate cooling system condition.

[Speed Monkey]

To-may-toe - to-mah-toe... Different strokes for different folks... Everyone has a different way of saying, and doing things, which is a good thing. In the beginning, I’ll admit it, I was fairly skeptical about LiquiMoly’s line of oil treatments. I did some reading online and from my point of view, I’d give it a try. MoS2 is a proven lubricant.

After using both products, I can’t verify improved gas mileage, but I can say my car does run a bit cooler; up to about an outside temperature of 90 deg F, the water temp gauge needle stays left of the 12:00 o’clock position, say at the 11:00 o’clock position. When the outside temperature reaches the 93 deg F threshold, and I’m crawling in traffic with no high, or highway speed airflow to the radiator, then the coolant temp needle moves to the 12:00 o’clock. Lastly, the engine appears to spin-up just a hair quicker after Ceratec & MoS2; the lower coolant temperature and the zingy-er feeling makes some sense. This is good enough for me, and I am under no delusion that an oil treatment will not fix, not repair worn metallic parts; believing so, in my opinion, is unsound reasoning.

[Xmetal]

I think the consensus on M3Forum was that it wasn’t all it was cracked up to be and that it led to sludge in the oil pan.

Not sludge, but the comment from Lang was that most of the MoS2 (that he uses in his race cars) would just end up at the bottom of the pan when I spoke to him about using additives.

no amount of MoS2 or ceratec will prevent you from a blown motor at 109k. park it till you do the rod bearings, your car is a ticking time bomb at this point..... yes many have made it to over 150k on factory installed bearings but people have also blown motors before 100k too

Agreed.

OP - Just save up and get your bearings changed out ASAP. MoS2 is just Molybdenum, which is already used in most oil (except Liqui Moly - how ironic!). Ceratec is just Boron and is also already found in most of today's oil.

With that said, here's my personal experience with various oil additives - with oil analysis to back it up. Yes...I used my own engine to experiment for you all I have a long-winded post on Zpost if you want to read more about it => https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthr...t=oil+analysis

[Arith2]

people have also blown motors before 100k too

71k for me. I used ceratec.

I didn't know it could cause sludge but it makes sense that it does.

[Ruley]

I think the consensus on M3Forum was that it wasn’t all it was cracked up to be and that it led to sludge in the oil pan.

[Maxima SE]

no amount of MoS2 or ceratec will prevent you from a blown motor at 109k. park it till you do the rod bearings, your car is a ticking time bomb at this point..... yes many have made it to over 150k on factory installed bearings but people have also blown motors before 100k too

[Arith2]

hate to tell you sponsoring is just about money zero to do with oil being good, bad or otherwise. there are plenty of race teams with decals of brand XYZ oil but they use something toltally different when it matters

You do have a point there. The teams they sponsor directly use their oil. Running oil in a 24 hour race is enough to make me a believer. Sadly 300V isn't quite meant for our engines, but their 10w-60 will do.
There's a youtube video about bogus "sponsors" I think you'd like.

[digger]

It's may be needed if you use their oil as they don't put much MOS2 in it to begin with. If the oil has sufficient amounts, then why waste your money? If it doesn't, why are you using that oil? I made the switch to Motul(finally) and I'm not going back. I'm in the boat with those saying "snake oil". It sort of is. Yes it can probably do what it's advertised to a certain extent but it's really not going to prolong your engine life. Where it would need to build up and cause a layer of protection are the areas that'll just scrape it off immediately. Then you can also end up adding way too much Molybendum to your oil which is bad. I like Motul. It's just one of the best oil companies in my opinion. They are literally the sponsoring oil is all my favorite racing competitions. The fact that they are partnered for the Le Mans 24 hour says quite a bit to me. It's also the gold standard in motorcycles. Also, no additives required.

hate to tell you sponsoring is just about money zero to do with oil being good, bad or otherwise. there are plenty of race teams with decals of brand XYZ oil but they use something toltally different when it matters

[digger]

its a scam, if the product is any good it should be in their oil so just use the oil, if its not then its BS. they make it so they can change $100/L to fix problems that dont exist

[Arith2]

It's may be needed if you use their oil as they don't put much MOS2 in it to begin with. If the oil has sufficient amounts, then why waste your money? If it doesn't, why are you using that oil? I made the switch to Motul(finally) and I'm not going back. I'm in the boat with those saying "snake oil". It sort of is. Yes it can probably do what it's advertised to a certain extent but it's really not going to prolong your engine life. Where it would need to build up and cause a layer of protection are the areas that'll just scrape it off immediately. Then you can also end up adding way too much Molybendum to your oil which is bad. I like Motul. It's just one of the best oil companies in my opinion. They are literally the sponsoring oil is all my favorite racing competitions. The fact that they are partnered for the Le Mans 24 hour says quite a bit to me. It's also the gold standard in motorcycles. Also, no additives required.