Overheating while running A/C

[eacmen]

So im assuming the bluebus readout matched the dash coolant temp?
Also the problem seems to be focused on the AC components. Although the condenser is new could be faulty could try out swapping out with a known working unit.
Sorry to hear about the gremlins. Hope you figure it out eventually

If the AC blows cold then the condensor is doing its job. I might check that the A/C system is charged with the correct level of refrigerant.

If it only happens at idle in the driveway but then cools down on the road my next focus would be on airflow over the rad/condensor. Maybe the pusher fan isn't running at full speed?

I will say I was chasing similar issue, and replacing the condensor didnt help. I ended up having to add back in the factory heat/shield and ducting for the rad since it was removed by a previous owner. But it sounds like you still have all the original ducting in place.


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[yhp2009]

So im assuming the bluebus readout matched the dash coolant temp?
Also the problem seems to be focused on the AC components. Although the condenser is new could be faulty could try out swapping out with a known working unit.
Sorry to hear about the gremlins. Hope you figure it out eventually

[0-60motorsports]

OE radiator? Folks on the old forum had alot of QC issues with the aftermarket.


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Yes OE BMW radiator

[eacmen]

Well guys, SSDD is all I have to say.

The only thing not changed is the radiator that has 40,000 km on it, it looks brand new and wasn’t even dirty but I cleaned it any way. I am at a loss. I don’t know what to do. I have changed every single cooling component on the car and it still over heats with AC on and under load. Car has 70,000 km on it.

OE radiator? Folks on the old forum had alot of QC issues with the aftermarket.


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[0-60motorsports]

Well guys, SSDD is all I have to say.

The only thing not changed is the radiator that has 40,000 km on it, it looks brand new and wasn’t even dirty but I cleaned it any way. I am at a loss. I don’t know what to do. I have changed every single cooling component on the car and it still over heats with AC on and under load. Car has 70,000 km on it.

[0-60motorsports]

My symptoms are the same as yours, only when the AC is on and I'm driving on the freeway at sustained 3k or greater RPM and Pheonix AZ heat is over 4k. I've replaced the radiator with a CSF one and the oil cooler with a CSF, run both fans, just the aux fan, just a mishimoto electric fan and nothing changes. The temps are not congruent, cluster says it's over heating, cluster test shows a higher readout than the OBD data, laser IR temp gun shows nothing in the coolant system is overheating.

This guy on bimmerforums seems to have similar issues that I'm experiencing, and it kinda sounds like your issue too. In post #16 he mentions that replacing one or the other sensor made his INPA reader show some odd readings, but when both werer replaced, the car finally showed the correct temp.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6#post30503676



My water pump and t-stat/hoses/radiator were all replaced a little over 40k ago. Before I throw $1k in parts at the problem, I'm going to replace both sensors and re-bleed the coolant system. Also, I bleed the CSF radiator "incorrectly" according to bimmerworld (those guys are awesome), I'll try bleeding the CSF radiator per their instructions

http://news.bimmerworld.com/csf-trip...airing-it-out/

I just replaced the aux fan sensor in the lower coolant hose and the other one is on the way from fcp. Will report back once it get here in a week. Thank you for the info and I’ll do the inpa test.

[eacmen]

It just shows the coolant temp. One temp, not inlet and outlet.

If using a scan tool or INPA you should ve able to see both sensors.

Right now its 80F in the garage, both sensors seem to agree.




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[S14]

So Fellas, it might not be the oil cooler, God knows what it is because I am highly frustrated right now and cant think straight. I am thinking coolant temp sensor.

Keep in mind as soon as I press the switch to deactivate the AC Compressor temps fall in 5-10 secs LOL. Issue is as stated only with AC on and when outside temps are over 104f

My symptoms are the same as yours, only when the AC is on and I'm driving on the freeway at sustained 3k or greater RPM and Pheonix AZ heat is over 4k. I've replaced the radiator with a CSF one and the oil cooler with a CSF, run both fans, just the aux fan, just a mishimoto electric fan and nothing changes. The temps are not congruent, cluster says it's over heating, cluster test shows a higher readout than the OBD data, laser IR temp gun shows nothing in the coolant system is overheating.

This guy on bimmerforums seems to have similar issues that I'm experiencing, and it kinda sounds like your issue too. In post #16 he mentions that replacing one or the other sensor made his INPA reader show some odd readings, but when both werer replaced, the car finally showed the correct temp.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6#post30503676

It's weird that last year (although without track time) never saw the needle GET to 3/4 high, yet here we are this year. REALLY odd was that I was not seeing coordinated readings (cluster menu 7.0, infra red readings, and scanner data stream as well as oil temps) until BOTH temp sensors were replaced. But, a win is a win is a win !!

My water pump and t-stat/hoses/radiator were all replaced a little over 40k ago. Before I throw $1k in parts at the problem, I'm going to replace both sensors and re-bleed the coolant system. Also, I bleed the CSF radiator "incorrectly" according to bimmerworld (those guys are awesome), I'll try bleeding the CSF radiator per their instructions

http://news.bimmerworld.com/csf-trip...airing-it-out/

[0-60motorsports]

It just shows the coolant temp. One temp, not inlet and outlet.

[eacmen]

I will try that and see how it compares to the bluebus readout. Thank you.

Didnt realize you had bluebus data. The dash readout wont be any different than what you get from bluebus. Do the coolant temps (inlet/outlet) from bluebus make sense?

[0-60motorsports]

If you don't have a data logger maybe try and use this trick to get a numerical coolant temp readout:

https://youtu.be/wjKt0ZQBV2U

If its the sensor it might display erratic behaviour. But I would think the ECU would throw a code if the inlet coolant temp and outlet don't jive.


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I will try that and see how it compares to the bluebus readout. Thank you.

[eacmen]

If you don't have a data logger maybe try and use this trick to get a numerical coolant temp readout:

https://youtu.be/wjKt0ZQBV2U

If its the sensor it might display erratic behaviour. But I would think the ECU would throw a code if the inlet coolant temp and outlet don't jive.


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[0-60motorsports]

So I still haven't found my OE oil cooler, still looking though, BUT in the meantime. Went to start the car and warm up at idle and the outside temps are around 110f in the shade and went all the way up to 119f at the end of our journey.

I start the car and turn on the AC and wait for my wife, by the time she comes down in 10-15 mins the car has already passed the half way mark on the coolant temp gauge and the oil is only between the 1/4 an 1/2 way mark. All the way to the destination which was around a 20-30 mins drive the coolant temps would be erratic, 91c at the lowest to 98c once we reached the destination which was the shop where the car is worked on. My wife was observing all this and i had told her about the high oil temps but yesterdays drive the oil temp only went a tiny tiny bit past half which is normal for our region.

So Fellas, it might not be the oil cooler, God knows what it is because I am highly frustrated right now and cant think straight. I am thinking coolant temp sensor.

Keep in mind as soon as I press the switch to deactivate the AC Compressor temps fall in 5-10 secs LOL. Issue is as stated only with AC on and when outside temps are over 104f

[eacmen]

What makes you say that?

I have had 95k mi OEM, new OEM, CSF, and C&R. The new OEM performed the best on track in hot ambient temps.

Also the OEM ones seem to have less QC issues than the aftermarket based on extensive threads on the old forum.


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[S14]

In my experience new OE oil cooler will likely outperform the aftermarket ones from a cooling perspective. The only advantage of an afternarket oil cooler is the increased capacity which is a marginal benefit.

What makes you say that?