What stud conversion is every one running

[cobra]

I recently went with ARP studs along with Core4 nuts as a preventive replacement. They are not listed as a package for the E46, but you can buy them individually. M12x1.5 75mm studs.

Interestingly, the last studs I had were red Loctite'd in and they came right out. I marked the new ones with a paint pen to make sure they don't back out.

[SandeepM3]

For bullet nose, it looks like you'll need the 90mm.

They have 85mm and 95mm. Will go with the 85's

[Slideways]

Yea they are 75mm MSI studs. On most studs you can. But the MSI studs for some reason stop there threads really early. And this is only with a 5mm. Here is a pic of apex studs next to MSI.

I think I'm going to exchange them just to be safe.

For bullet nose, it looks like you'll need the 90mm.

[SandeepM3]

Is that 75mm? One wheel manufacturer says that 12mm is max on a 75mm stud.

Yea they are 75mm MSI studs. On most studs you can. But the MSI studs for some reason stop there threads really early. And this is only with a 5mm. Here is a pic of apex studs next to MSI.

I think I'm going to exchange them just to be safe.

[Slideways]

What are your thoughts, do I have to get longer studs?

Pic shows how far the nut goes hand tight. The black mark is where the top edge of the nut is. Tape is where the bottom of the nut is. But this is not torqued so should go down a little bit more.

Is that 75mm? One wheel manufacturer says that 12mm is max on a 75mm stud.

[SandeepM3]

What are your thoughts, do I have to get longer studs?

Pic shows how far the nut goes hand tight. The black mark is where the top edge of the nut is. Tape is where the bottom of the nut is. But this is not torqued so should go down a little bit more.

[bjz!]

It sounds like you’re not really following the conversation and don’t understand the root cause of the problem. Potholes and impacts on back roads have nothing to do with it until you’re exposing the studs to 600 degree brakes repeatedly.

Maybe bigjae is not breaking enough...

I understand your point, just trolling.

[bigjae46]

Was this a couple years ago at a texas track? Likely my clients car that I am literally putting Core4 hubs on today.

it was a couple of years ago ago at Cresson.

[repoman89]

Canary island, Spain, my friend. and... Is the opossite, the tarmac is not good, thats why i say what i say, not because the car o the driver are good.
U can say whatever you want, i drive off the road, potholes, no matter what is in the road, the m3 is a trash car to do whatever you want. Bigjae got the studs perfect. Maybe he is right and the problem is the ppl installing them. In most cases.

It sounds like you’re not really following the conversation and don’t understand the root cause of the problem. Potholes and impacts on back roads have nothing to do with it until you’re exposing the studs to 600 degree brakes repeatedly.

[George Hill]

I too am using Core4, they also manufacture lug nuts, pricy but worth it. https://www.core4motorsports.com/pro...core4-flug-nut

I agree

[bjz!]

Wow. You’re braking hard from 140 to 60 and taking over 1G lateral over and over again on back roads? Where is this amazing piece of tarmac? I need to experience it.


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Canary island, Spain, my friend. and... Is the opossite, the tarmac is not good, thats why i say what i say, not because the car o the driver are good.
U can say whatever you want, i drive off the road, potholes, no matter what is in the road, the m3 is a trash car to do whatever you want. Bigjae got the studs perfect. Maybe he is right and the problem is the ppl installing them. In most cases.

[eacmen]

I doubt you guys take almost half bad back roads and put tyres outside the tarmac like me, and, still 0 problems. So, stop being dramatic about studs, thanks.

Wow. You’re braking hard from 140 to 60 and taking over 1G lateral over and over again on back roads? Where is this amazing piece of tarmac? I need to experience it.


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[elbert]

The problem is exactly that, the extra material where the stud meets the hub is there because it's a threaded stud, but it expands and contracts at a different rate than the hub, and gets repeatedly stretched until failure. Look at the picture George linked above you can see they will snap right at the shoulder. MSI somewhat alleviates this by having that shoulder be cone instead of flat to meet the hub, but it's a band-aid. Pressed in studs don't have this issue, and should last as long as the wheel bearing does, at which time they can be serviced again.

Another key difference is "12mm press-in studs have 44+% larger cross-sectional area at points of peak stress at the hub than thread-in studs and bolts"

[M9Seth]

I opted to use the Core4 Motorsports bolt through MSI studs. I was in the process of replacing my wheel bearings anyways and sent them my new front and rear hubs. This bolt-through design eliminates the failure point in the standard design and these same studs are used in NASCAR.

On a side note, what is is the highest quality stud nut on the market?

I too am using Core4, they also manufacture lug nuts, pricy but worth it. https://www.core4motorsports.com/pro...core4-flug-nut

[George Hill]

I have never lost a wheel. Although every time a car loses a wheel on track...it has been a BMW. I remember I asked why the track was shut down. My buddy told me a car lost a wheel. I said, "It's a BMW". He was like how do you know that? And....a silverstone E92 M3 on the flat bed with 3 wheels.

I've seen studs and lug bolts fail. It comes down to taking care of them. Stuff like dragging the wheel over the threads, torqueing and then re-torqueing, over-torqueing with a long torque wrench, and not keeping the mating surfaces on the hub and wheel clean.

Was this a couple years ago at a texas track? Likely my clients car that I am literally putting Core4 hubs on today.