Originally posted by gabylonfive
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Crank but no fire first key turn, starts right up second key turn?
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Originally posted by dukeofchen View Post
Interesting, I haven't personally heard about these issues when I bought the kit, but then again we had already lost M3F at that time.
I did notice when installing the new pump that the blue spade connector for the ground wire (the smaller of the two in the image below) did seem to be slightly looser when connected to the female end that runs from the original pump housing. The spade connector has an internal tab that you have to make sure mates to the other end, so after hooking the tab, squeezing the shit out of it with pliers, and applying the heat shrink I figured it would be solid enough. I could see someone messing up the electrical connections if they aren't careful, which might account for the failures. It's Step 17 in Radium's install instructions.
Either way, probably best to reach out to them directly. Would be very interested to see what they come back with if they are aware of the issue since I'm running the kit myself.
https://thebuildjournal.com/news/you...-you-stranded/
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Have you considered replacing your ignition switch. I was having a similar issue a while back but was never able to find root cause. Ended up replacing my starter and ignition switch and haven’t had issues since.
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Originally posted by gabylonfive View Post
I recall reading awhile ago that a few folks had issues with the radium kit and the included electrical connectors arcing and melting (causing intermittent or total failure.) Do you know if this was ever addressed? I'm planning to replace my pump in one way or another soon and would rather do the radium kit if all the kinks were worked out...
I did notice when installing the new pump that the blue spade connector for the ground wire (the smaller of the two in the image below) did seem to be slightly looser when connected to the female end that runs from the original pump housing. The spade connector has an internal tab that you have to make sure mates to the other end, so after hooking the tab, squeezing the shit out of it with pliers, and applying the heat shrink I figured it would be solid enough. I could see someone messing up the electrical connections if they aren't careful, which might account for the failures. It's Step 17 in Radium's install instructions.
Either way, probably best to reach out to them directly. Would be very interested to see what they come back with if they are aware of the issue since I'm running the kit myself.
Last edited by dukeofchen; 07-15-2020, 10:27 AM.
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Originally posted by dl.m3 View PostIf this only occurs on warm starts. Then it's your fuel pressure check valve. The fuel pump doesn't always prime on warm starts so if your check valve is bad then all the pressure bleeds off. On cold starts your pump will prime every time (audible).Is that the fuel regulator on the filter? I replaced mine when I bought the car about 20k miles ago. Can it be bad already?
EDIT: 50's kid ftw :https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...ature=emb_logoLast edited by jdamore44; 07-15-2020, 10:08 AM.
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Originally posted by gabylonfive View Post
I recall reading awhile ago that a few folks had issues with the radium kit and the included electrical connectors arcing and melting (causing intermittent or total failure.) Do you know if this was ever addressed? I'm planning to replace my pump in one way or another soon and would rather do the radium kit if all the kinks were worked out...
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Originally posted by dukeofchen View Post
Another option available is to use the radium engineering kit to swap the pump itself while retaining the original housing. I swapped an AEM 340LPH unit into mine a couple weeks ago and have been happy with it thus far, quieter than the old unit that was likely failing, but time will tell as far as longevity. Got away with it for around $170 if I recall correctly, doing the swap added an hour or two to the procedure for me.
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Originally posted by Cbouts View Post
seriously, super easy process... get some towels to make sure you can clean up any leaks. hardest part is unplugging the pump (still easy) as it unplugs diagonally. look it up on YouTube. ShopLife does a good review on an E46.
New part is $400 from ECS. You own an old BMW, be ready to spend some $$.
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If this only occurs on warm starts. Then it's your fuel pressure check valve. The fuel pump doesn't always prime on warm starts so if your check valve is bad then all the pressure bleeds off. On cold starts your pump will prime every time (audible).
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Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
Fuel pump takes 15 mins, it's very easy to access.
New part is $400 from ECS. You own an old BMW, be ready to spend some $$.
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Originally posted by eacmen View PostIf possible let it sit overnight to relieve the fuel pressure in the line before disconnecting it.
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Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
Fuel pump takes 15 mins, it's very easy to access.
Spray with with PB Blaster and let it sit for 20-30 minutes before trying to remove it. Don't just hammer it in one spot, go around the fuel pump and try to get some decent impacts all around to free up any seize there might be in the threads. Just be patient if it doesn't start unthreading immediately. Try to drive it down to a 1/4 tank or less to make it less messy. If possible let it sit overnight to relieve the fuel pressure in the line before disconnecting it. Don't light a cigarette or anything while doing the job.
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Originally posted by Maxhouse97 View PostYes fuel pump makes sense. I am trying to start it right away like normal. Thanks.
Just googled fuel pump replace - seems fairly in depth. However the car has 127k miles, and my theory is to replace parts with new if/when I have problems.
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Yes fuel pump makes sense. I am trying to start it right away like normal. Thanks.
Just googled fuel pump replace - seems fairly in depth. However the car has 127k miles, and my theory is to replace parts with new if/when I have problems.
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