Coilover Recommendation

[JayVee]

There is nothing unique about the Dinan Koinis.

If you value ease of adjustment, get the tck s/a rear mini yellows— they’re top adjustable.

I suspected as much. Now, this begs the question of whose springs Dinan is using? But for $280 I think ill buy from them and get the +2 badge points

[Obioban]

There is nothing unique about the Dinan Koinis.

If you value ease of adjustment, get the tck s/a rear mini yellows— they’re top adjustable.

[JayVee]

How is the Dinan suspension? I see they pair their springs with Koni yellow's.. I think this might be a good upgrade for my car, OEM+, weekend car, garage kept, and I want something for slightly better handling but still comfortable. Does anyone know if the dampers that come with the Dinan kit are the exact same Koni's I can buy elsewhere, but cheaper?

[SUPREM3]

I also have Ohlins on my E92 and love them. I drive my M3 mostly on the street but will start tracking it soon: should I stick with Ohlins or go to MCS2WNR? Is it worth the extra $1k+ over Ohlins?

Although Ian covered it, I would leave the car alone if you haven't started tracking yet. Although you won't be as "optimized" with your setup as is, seat time is the most important factor on track. I tracked with my E92 and the car felt great. Biggest thing I would focus on would be alignment. Car Pushes without it properly setup, so dialing that in proper will make the car feel much better.

The Ohlins Dampers are great!

[Obioban]

The second one.

[Slideways]

Which Turner end-link is recommended?

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-338359-adjustable-sway-bar-link-single-e30-m3-e36-m3-e46-z4/?pdk=AQ

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-339009-e28-e30-e34-e36-e39-e46-e9x-mz3-z4-turner-motorsport-adjustable-front-sway-bar-end-links-pair/?pdk=AQ

[Obioban]

Ok, so searched a bit and it seemed that the key was keeping the ends of the sways parallel to the ground.

The bar does rotate and a fixed endlink will force it to from its proper position in parallel.

So if you're lowered a fair amount like 1"-2" you may be pushing the ends down by that much (in an arc) and while that's not actually adding preload, it is making the lever harder to pull I think (increased spring rate?) Due to the distance changing. Perhaps that's not really a bad thing if it's a small amount if you're on a low or medium setting.

This is where stock like sway tab locations on the strut (or higher, if such exist) AND maintaining travel through camber plate/mount mods won't require different endlinks. Afaik, the biggest change in tab locations is on KWs.

I still don't understand how one adjustable endlink is nec. When any slight differences from side to side will be corrected for by the freely moving ball joint. *Unless the ball joint isn't able to pivot once fastened to the bar/tab. It will be free to spin so the sway can rotate. But perhaps it can't pivot once the shank is fastened (no free play/angles).

It also seems that racecars are the one's doing this "to the nth degree" fine tuning.

The reason to have two adjustable end links is to keep the end links perpendicular to the sway. That often, but not always, results in the sway being parallel to the ground.

That is significantly less important than having one end link, which allows you to dial out preload. Having a preloaded sway makes the end links wear out faster than stock and behave different when turning left than right (as one way will have the sway engage faster than no preload and the other will have the sway push the car towards rolling before slowing it.

I would consider one to be necessary (if non stock), two to be fine tuning.

[Tbonem3]

Ok, so searched a bit and it seemed that the key was keeping the ends of the sways parallel to the ground.

The bar does rotate and a fixed endlink will force it to from its proper position in parallel.

So if you're lowered a fair amount like 1"-2" you may be pushing the ends down by that much (in an arc) and while that's not actually adding preload, it is making the lever harder to pull I think (increased spring rate?) Due to the distance changing. Perhaps that's not really a bad thing if it's a small amount if you're on a low or medium setting.

This is where stock like sway tab locations on the strut (or higher, if such exist) AND maintaining travel through camber plate/mount mods won't require different endlinks. Afaik, the biggest change in tab locations is on KWs.

I still don't understand how one adjustable endlink is nec. When any slight differences from side to side will be corrected for by the freely moving ball joint. *Unless the ball joint isn't able to pivot once fastened to the bar/tab. It will be free to spin so the sway can rotate. But perhaps it can't pivot once the shank is fastened (no free play/angles).

It also seems that racecars are the one's doing this "to the nth degree" fine tuning.

[Obioban]

Ok, so it's the load differential between left/right arms/levers. But with the car up in the air, how is one side going to be higher than the other?

The sway bar provides extra spring when one side is more loaded than the other, But at rest, with struts at full droop, there'd be no load.

True— to set sway bar preload, the suspension needs to be at static load.

[Tbonem3]

Ok, so it's the load differential between left/right arms/levers. But with the car up in the air, how is one side going to be higher than the other?

The sway bar provides extra spring when one side is more loaded than the other, But at rest, with struts at full droop, there'd be no load.

[Obioban]

What preload are you talking about Ian? I've always wondered about this. The end links use ball joints that are free to rotate and pivot unlike a rubber bushing that we preload so that it doesn't twist at ride height, only upon hieght change as susp moves up/down.

As far as endlink length, the sway bar is free to rotate in its rubber/poly bushings. So you just rotate it up or down till the hole lines up with the endlink.

AFAIK, the tension(spring) a sway provides is through lever(flex) maybe twisting? but not rotating.

I must be missing something.

To take the preload situation to an extreme, imagine if one side of the car sat 5” higher than the other— the sway bar end link wouldn’t line up by ~5”. If you compressed the spring to force it to align, that would be the preload.

Odds of a car being spot on the exact ride height that there’s zero preload on the sway are pretty low.

(obviously 5” is stupid— just trying to make it so you can visualize it)

[Tbonem3]

What preload are you talking about Ian? I've always wondered about this. The end links use ball joints that are free to rotate and pivot unlike a rubber bushing that we preload so that it doesn't twist at ride height, only upon hieght change as susp moves up/down.

As far as endlink length, the sway bar is free to rotate in its rubber/poly bushings. So you just rotate it up or down till the hole lines up with the endlink.

AFAIK, the tension(spring) a sway provides is through lever(flex) maybe twisting? but not rotating.

I must be missing something.

[Obioban]

Are adjustable endlinks necessary if your lowered? say 13.5" ride height from wheel to fender.

So.... "it depends".

If you're willing to micro tweak your ride height until there's no preload, you don't need adjustable end links. But, that process would be a huge PITA and there's no way to do that and corner balance the car.

So, functionally you need them. Technically you don't.

[Egone]

One adjustable end link lets you dial out preload. Two adjustable end links lets you dial out preload and set the sway bar to be perpendicular to the end link.

IMO Turner's sealed adjustable are the best out there, if your sway bar is compatible with them.

Are adjustable endlinks necessary if your lowered? say 13.5" ride height from wheel to fender.

[Obioban]

Adjustable front sway bar end links a must when going aftermarket suspension? What brand is preferred?

One adjustable end link lets you dial out preload. Two adjustable end links lets you dial out preload and set the sway bar to be perpendicular to the end link.

IMO Turner's sealed adjustable are the best out there, if your sway bar is compatible with them.