What mods would you do on a $10k budget?

[MTiz]

LOL
perfect timing to burn $10k

as much as i would love to spend $ on the toys I have at the moment, this is not the time to be doing that. Take that $ and put it in the stock market, double it or even triple it in the next 6 months and buy a nice M3 that you can call a collector car Or just pocket the profit and play with the rest. We don't get opportunities like this often enough, take it from someone who missed the boat 10 years ago.

This entire thread is hypothetical for me anyway as I don't own an M3 and don't currently have the means to buy one that isn't clapped. Your advice is appreciated though, as I am a class of 2020 college graduate and these next few months I'll likely have it as bad if not worse than class of 2009. Thankfully I got my degree in an in-demand field (Business Tech), I have decent savings, no loans, and I still live at home. I would like to buy an E46 M3 before the year is over though, it IS my childhood dream car after all-- and I want to do it right. Car with decent maintenance history, fair mileage (80k-100k), 6-Speed of course, and I want to keep it for a long time.

[pawelgawel]

LOL
perfect timing to burn $10k

as much as i would love to spend $ on the toys I have at the moment, this is not the time to be doing that. Take that $ and put it in the stock market, double it or even triple it in the next 6 months and buy a nice M3 that you can call a collector car Or just pocket the profit and play with the rest. We don't get opportunities like this often enough, take it from someone who missed the boat 10 years ago.

[Arith2]

I paid $200 shipped for my or euro headers and Oe euro catted section 1, shipped. They can be had cheaply if you shop around.

If you think they’re inferior... I think you have no idea what you’re talking about

As most things (oil especially), it's basically what someone wants to pay. If someone wants to say they have Euro headers then they'll pay the extra dough. I believe that you did pay $200 but not all of us have black market connections and will end up paying twice that until the hype goes down. Both Megan Racing and Euro Headers have stock fitment. Euro headers don't come with bungs but Megan Racing headers do. This will be an issue for the commie states that sniff butts.

Even if Euro headers were cheaper, I would've gone with mine simply just because I don't have cats anymore and install is easier. I definitely think Euro headers are inferior to SS headers.

[ethan]

If it hasn’t already been done, in this order:
vince bar (subframe)
beisan vanos downs and valve adjustment
replace all fluids with new OE fluids
entire cooling system
every bushings/bearing/ball joint in the suspension
bluebus
TCK S/As
Light weight 18” wheels with good tires (Michelin non all seasons)
replace any interior components that are looking worn/tired

power is the least meaningful upgrade, imo. No matter how much you have, it feels “normal” after a couple weeks. If you DDed a Bugatti, I’m pretty sure it would feel slow after a couple months.

In retrospect, this is exactly how I'd start on a new-to-me M3.

And the argument about power is right, but don't let it deter you from doing the right NA mods with the next $10k (admittedly not part of the question). Part of the beauty of this platform is of course our access to aftermarket CSL-derived parts: generous CSL original owners funded an R&D program for us so that 20 years later, we're now able to capture some small part of the supercar experience in our humble 3 series grocery getters. For me, the best experience(not power)-per-dollar parts combo (after Obioban's perfect baseline list) is a Karbonius airbox, Euro or SSV1 headers, and Schrick cams running a close-to-stock CSL tune. In some ways, it's even better than the real thing (a GT3 e.g.) because you can show up to a track day without insurance and you're not worried about putting miles on it every day like you might be if you had a real asset and not a 7th-hand 120k mile family car.

[BearDeXPS]

take care of what's left - sort the rear subframe, supercharger + wideband, CSL roof + CSL trunk. would also likely need to add vents to the hood for cooling.

[Fresh1179]

I have lived through this dilemma, and have pumped enough money into this car to make your head spin, but I am not complaining. As others have said, it really depends on what your goals are. Also, I would take an inventory of what your skills are in terms of working on the car. That being said, there is a wealth of knowledge around on this car and DIY’s. I noticed that you said OEM+. If you have the maintenance done at a shop, this will eat your 10k based on the recommended maintenance. I’m guessing your car will have 85,000-X miles these days so you will (likely*) need:

1. Shocks (DIY)
2. VANOS “Lockdown” (DIY)
3. Valve Adjustment (DIY)
4. Fuel Filter (DIY)
5. Fuel Pump (Probably) (DIY)
6. Oil Change and Filter (DIY)
7. Control Arms (Probably) (Limited Access for some nuts but still a DIY)
8. RACP Solution (If you cannot weld, $hop, otherwise a DIY)
9. FCABs, RTABs, Engine Mounts, Transmission Mounts, Diff Bushings, Subframe Bushings, Misc Ball Joints (Can be DIY, harder without lift)
10. Rod Bearings (I would be hesitant to do this on jack stands but people have, otherwise $hop)
11. Fan Clutch (DIY
12. Cooling System Overhaul (DIY)
13. Belt Tensioners, Belts and Pullies (DIY)
14. Misc. there is always Misc.

Right there you are looking at close to 10k if some items are performed in the shop.

After that, you get piece of mind and your artistry can begin.

[repoman89]

Hate to add it up but I’ve probably spent $10k more than once over the last five years, here’s what made the cut (along with PO’s list, lol) ..

PO’s first $10k:

KWv2
Apex ARC-8s
AP Headers + Rogue El Diablo
Evolve tune
Autosolutions 30% SSK
SGT CSL trunk and diffuser
Euro bumper

PO’s second $10k:

Full high end repaint in stock IB

My first $10k:

CPI HJS catted section 1
Stock muffler from CL
VANOS lockdown (diy)
rear floor vincebar+plates+rear bushing refresh (large shop bill)
ZCP wheels since PO sold the originals
New stock shifter
Rewrapped leather wheel

Second $10k:

SSv1 headers + cats
Karbonius airbox + CSL DME conversion
PC tune
OE CSL trunk + mile-end diffuser
996 brakes
New OE leather wheel
Cobra nogaros (incoming)

Third $10k aka upcoming wish list:

Carbon roof
Suspension upgrade (Ohlins or TCK?)
Front bushings + monoball RTABs
Electric fan

[Obioban]

Listen, you may have snuck this comment in while I was fixing my car by I ain't letting it slip through the cracks.

People can pay the BMW tax for a fairly inferior product out of the aftermarket options( Euro headers included because this is America) but at the end of the day, Megan Racing headers are just going to save you money. They also aren't used.... And they're half the price of the cheapest USED Euro headers. So you and your "fancy" headers can chew on them apples.

I paid $200 shipped for my or euro headers and Oe euro catted section 1, shipped. They can be had cheaply if you shop around.

If you think they’re inferior... I think you have no idea what you’re talking about

[Arith2]

OE euro is still better made (than any aftermarket), makes more power, fits like stock (), and can be had for similar money.

Listen, you may have snuck this comment in while I was fixing my car by I ain't letting it slip through the cracks.

People can pay the BMW tax for a fairly inferior product out of the aftermarket options( Euro headers included because this is America) but at the end of the day, Megan Racing headers are just going to save you money. They also aren't used.... And they're half the price of the cheapest USED Euro headers. So you and your "fancy" headers can chew on them apples.

[Feffman]

Next time around an engine rebuild using forged rods and pistons which will chew up most of the budget. Already have most of the other engine bits BUT a Karbonius intake would be a final nice piece.

Feff

[Obioban]

Megan Racing had one bad batch, the first one. They literally fixed them for free or gave refunds without hassle. People were annoyed but the issue was fixed and stayed fixed. If someone is still selling the first batch, they will fix the flanges. That is why I still recommend them. EGT is in a weird spot but everything fits. Two days ago I put my headers on and it reminded how flawless they are. Sec 1 fits perfect and everything buttoned up real nice. They took less than and hour to put on. You want to spend more on used headers? Fine. Why when the product is proven? Yes SS are better. Get them over these but they are 6 times the cost. This is like the opposite of Status Gruppe. Cheap, fits, ships on time, good customer service, fixes faulty product permanently, and still gets doubted(initially). Any other Megan product I can't vouch for but I don't want people wasting money if they don't have to. We all are switching to Supersprints one day. Why spend $500-1000 on the way? I hate gambling with products and that's why I read through every page and waited for about 10 people to buy them and put them on. The complainers and skeptics posted alot. The ones that had them fit typically stopped posting because they were there for the same reason I was. Once they fit fine, I just said they fit and moved on with life. There were around 15 people that had my experience. I think the 5 original people had to send them back. One had ordered from eBay and got an old one after the first batch. So no, not alot had that issue.

OE euro is still better made (than any aftermarket), makes more power, fits like stock (), and can be had for similar money.

[RoyalFlushness]

Megan Racing had one bad batch, the first one. They literally fixed them for free or gave refunds without hassle. People were annoyed but the issue was fixed and stayed fixed. If someone is still selling the first batch, they will fix the flanges. That is why I still recommend them. EGT is in a weird spot but everything fits. Two days ago I put my headers on and it reminded how flawless they are. Sec 1 fits perfect and everything buttoned up real nice. They took less than and hour to put on. You want to spend more on used headers? Fine. Why when the product is proven? Yes SS are better. Get them over these but they are 6 times the cost. This is like the opposite of Status Gruppe. Cheap, fits, ships on time, good customer service, fixes faulty product permanently, and still gets doubted(initially). Any other Megan product I can't vouch for but I don't want people wasting money if they don't have to. We all are switching to Supersprints one day. Why spend $500-1000 on the way? I hate gambling with products and that's why I read through every page and waited for about 10 people to buy them and put them on. The complainers and skeptics posted alot. The ones that had them fit typically stopped posting because they were there for the same reason I was. Once they fit fine, I just said they fit and moved on with life. There were around 15 people that had my experience. I think the 5 original people had to send them back. One had ordered from eBay and got an old one after the first batch. So no, not alot had that issue.

The Megan headers appear to be back in stock on eBay etc.. as well at the normal price. There were some outlets tying to sell them at $1000 because of COVID stocking issues a few weeks ago.

[cdnabroad]

Dinan sold Schrick 280/272 cams.

Throttle bodies should be the last thing you do on a NA build. No gains on cars anywhere near stock, <7 hp
of gains over a 4000rpm range on a 100hp over stock car.

Thanks for the input, ya that's what I thought, and here I am almost through all the maintenance you recommend 😀 but was curious and that makes sense. Given the performance returns, that's a bit of $$$ to put into the car that is best spent elsewhere.

[Arith2]

I've seen a couple of people who have had the same experience as you, that megans fit well without a single issue. However, I've seen a lot of people with the same complaints about the flanges not being flat and they were furious. I also went through the 60+ pages of posts on the m3forum.net post and decided after seeing the general consensus, it would be best to go with euro headers or SSv1's. Maybe its because I don't like gambling. It also wasn't just the first batch or two that were having issues with fitment. I think some get lucky, some just don't. Isn't the 02 sensor location or the EGT placement in a weird spot as well? I won't knock someone for wanting to save money, but I would be worried about recommending headers to someone who could end up at a shop with a labor bill that exceeds the cost of more expensive headers if they had done things differently.

Megan Racing had one bad batch, the first one. They literally fixed them for free or gave refunds without hassle. People were annoyed but the issue was fixed and stayed fixed. If someone is still selling the first batch, they will fix the flanges. That is why I still recommend them. EGT is in a weird spot but everything fits. Two days ago I put my headers on and it reminded how flawless they are. Sec 1 fits perfect and everything buttoned up real nice. They took less than and hour to put on. You want to spend more on used headers? Fine. Why when the product is proven? Yes SS are better. Get them over these but they are 6 times the cost. This is like the opposite of Status Gruppe. Cheap, fits, ships on time, good customer service, fixes faulty product permanently, and still gets doubted(initially). Any other Megan product I can't vouch for but I don't want people wasting money if they don't have to. We all are switching to Supersprints one day. Why spend $500-1000 on the way? I hate gambling with products and that's why I read through every page and waited for about 10 people to buy them and put them on. The complainers and skeptics posted alot. The ones that had them fit typically stopped posting because they were there for the same reason I was. Once they fit fine, I just said they fit and moved on with life. There were around 15 people that had my experience. I think the 5 original people had to send them back. One had ordered from eBay and got an old one after the first batch. So no, not alot had that issue.

[Circa Surviven]

Fitment is actually flawless. The welds are very nice quality and if Active Autowerks headers make more than Euro headers then Megan Racing headers do. They're basically the same design. Not everyone cares about cats.
I had buildjournal and Megan's headers making 310whp. 3-5 may have come from my filter, "muffler", and Turner pulley set. The headers did more than the tune. That engine was pretty sluggish stock. We'll see how the new engine does.

I've seen a couple of people who have had the same experience as you, that megans fit well without a single issue. However, I've seen a lot of people with the same complaints about the flanges not being flat and they were furious. I also went through the 60+ pages of posts on the m3forum.net post and decided after seeing the general consensus, it would be best to go with euro headers or SSv1's. Maybe its because I don't like gambling. It also wasn't just the first batch or two that were having issues with fitment. I think some get lucky, some just don't. Isn't the 02 sensor location or the EGT placement in a weird spot as well? I won't knock someone for wanting to save money, but I would be worried about recommending headers to someone who could end up at a shop with a labor bill that exceeds the cost of more expensive headers if they had done things differently.