Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Need engine builders help, S54 build going terrible wrong.
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by enjoy_m3 View PostJE has a good reputation, you can't assume it's the piston without proper inspection and clearance. Confirm what valve seals you are using. I was able to confirm that the elring valve seal has a larger diameter hole than OEM BMW. I bought both and can visually see it. Had the same problem as you on my original engine but I haven't gotten around to diagnosing the problem. Bought another engine and refreshed the head, that's when I bought both elring and BMW valve seal to compare. New engine didn't burn oil after.
Original Seals are ...Corteco
- Likes 1
Leave a comment:
-
JE has a good reputation, you can't assume it's the piston without proper inspection and clearance. Confirm what valve seals you are using. I was able to confirm that the elring valve seal has a larger diameter hole than OEM BMW. I bought both and can visually see it. Had the same problem as you on my original engine but I haven't gotten around to diagnosing the problem. Bought another engine and refreshed the head, that's when I bought both elring and BMW valve seal to compare. New engine didn't burn oil after.
Leave a comment:
-
Simply way to solve the problem don’t use je pistons. Also did you measure your valve guides???
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by SteelGreyM View Post
How is it recommended that you break in a rebuilt s54?
I couldn’t find a 10w-60 break in oil.
The best thing I found was a 15w-50 break in oil.
Should I use that or 10w-60 to break it in? Should I drive it hard? Easy? Or BMW break in procedure?
BMW break in procedure, then change oil at 1200 miles. If it worked to get a factory built motor to 150k+ miles and burning almost no oil, it should be good enough for a rebuild.
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by F1Dryvr View PostPerhaps you got some glazing...
Ive tried to read as many sources as i can find to get the consistent recommendations at several steps of this build. Hope you get it sorted.
I couldn’t find a 10w-60 break in oil.
The best thing I found was a 15w-50 break in oil.
Should I use that or 10w-60 to break it in? Should I drive it hard? Easy? Or BMW break in procedure?
Leave a comment:
-
Perhaps you got some glazing...
Ive tried to read as many sources as i can find to get the consistent recommendations at several steps of this build. Hope you get it sorted.
You have one chance to break-in an engine correctly. Doing it the right way is worth power, torque, and engine longevity. We walk you through the ideal way to
Leave a comment:
-
That said i didnt use one for my ring filing step. A video i watched on ring filing suggested perhaps not neccessary. Likely alters your ring gap by .001 or less(im not sure which direction). My build is for track and so there was wiggle room of .003 between a street gap vs a turbo nitrous gap so me being between that should mean i have nothing tp worry about as far as ring gap is comcerned. Also not sure if you mentioned your ring clocking. Cp had a diagram that i went with. There may be others ways of doing it but more than once the ring compressor spun the top ring by 45 degrees or more and i had to pull a piston out to re clock it.
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by SteelGreyM View Post
Who makes the OE? Corteco or Elring? I was staring at pictures yesterday but couldn’t figure it out. I want to say elring?
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by F1Dryvr View PostCp also recommends a torque plate for ring filing.
Leave a comment:
-
Guys you don’t need a torque plate to stop oil consumption. It’s ideal to use one but it’s not the root cause.
What rings, size, type of face, low or standard tension etc got a p/n?
what oil ? What’s oil pressure hot idle?
di you know where the oil is being introduced ? Guides, crankcase, inlet ?
what guide clearance ?
Details of honing process and run in ?
- Likes 2
Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: