Tuned! 332whp! My Engine Build - Cams, Airbox, LTW Flyhweel & more :)

[SteelGreyM]

Ok cool, same for me bar the new rods/pistons.

As for the break in procedure for my new cams, my understanding is to run the engine varying the revs from 1k-3k rpms for 15-20minutes, much like you did during your initial start up. I have 15L of Penrite 10 Tenths 15w-40 mineral running in oil to use during both the initial start up and the first ~1,000km - https://www.penriteoil.com.au/produc...15w-40-mineral.

My plan is to run the motor and get everything up to temp while checking for coolant & oil leaks, varying the revs for this initial start up, then shut it down, let it cool off and change the filter & oil. Then it's off for the first drive to begin the process of bedding the rings in the bores. Go load the motor up and drive up some big hills!

Yes, I'll absolutely pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it over to ensure oil gets to every passage and pressure is there. Stupid question; did you do this with the spark plugs in or out?

Tonight and tomorrow I plan on continuing re-assembly. Still have to sort out the wiring harness, reconnect the clutch line and bleed the brakes + clutch, wire in the map sensor, fit front end etc..

For the first start, my brother will be with me to watch and listen for anything untoward. I'm certain we've done everything correct in the bottom and top end. Time will tell haha.

I have borrowed a laptop with INPA, GT1, etc. so I'll use that to prime the pump. I've never used any of these software suites, but I'm sure I'll figure it out.

Hahaha I look forward to smelling those catless fumes in my garage. Don't know about my wife though hahaha!

Nice sounds like you also did your research!

I cranked it with the plugs in but now that you say it - I’d do it again plugs out. Will still achieve same goal but should be easier on the starter.

I’d leave the front end off for the first 20 minute start up. I didn’t even have the aluminum underbelly stiffening plate thing. Just leave as much off as you can as it will allow you to spot leaks easier and faster.

I hope your MAP sensor doesn’t give you any headaches. Personally I’d finish the car before doing that then install that later. You want the smallest number of things to troubleshoot in case it won’t start.

[Syfon]

Yes completely fresh build top to bottom. New pistons, rings, rods. Re-used cams though. So check the break in procedure for your new cams.

In fact I just did my first break in startup today with all the coolant lines, air box, Maf, etc connected etc.

Yesterday for the *very* first start I had no belt on. Only ran it for 20 seconds or so. No air box or coolant. Open header. Just the oil cooler (hung with bungees). Used non synthetic 0w-40 from amazon basics. It felt just wrong lol. But for only 20 minutes the choice of oil isn’t very important. Figured a lighter weight would allow the easiest startup. Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it a bunch. Better be safe than sorry. Get that oil everywhere and try and build any pressure you can. Give the starter a break in between cranks.

After you’re happy with that you put the fuel pump fuse back in and turn the key a few times to build pressure. I found that I had to turn the key to position 2. Let the fuel pump run. Then take the key out. Lock and unlock the car. Then repeat the process. This made the fuel pump turn on again. Do this a few more times than you think necessary.

Make sure you give your starter a break like I mentioned earlier. Just a few minutes.

Then cross your fingers and hope for the best. It will probably take a few tries. It took me about 5 attempts but I think it would have been quicker if I primed the fuel pressure more and gave my starter a break as it started like nothing after I walked away for 5 min and came back. Rough idle (like it had an aggressive cam) for about 10 seconds then it smoothed up perfectly.

Today I had everything hooked up. Coolant lines, power steering, mass airflow sensor,
Etc. basically everything needed for a running car (minus the cosmetic front end). I ran the engine for about 20 minutes varying speed between idle and 3k rpm.

If you have a helper to sit in the car and monitor the dash for lights that’s a huge help. I have a decent scanner as well which was able to check any codes or lights that came up and clear them on the fly. While it’s running for this first 20 minutes make sure you are doing a check over for leaks and any weird noises. Check coolant leaks and oil leaks mainly. You will most likely see smoke coming out from somewhere (wether it be exhaust or header side of engine bay). Don’t be alarmed as it is *most likely* just residual oil burning off. My head gasket blew and got oil all throughout the exhaust and headers so it took about 10 minutes for the smoke to stop coming out of the engine bay. While I saw that I went to the rear of the car and gave it a good whiff. Made sure it all smelled normal. Maybe I gave it too good of a whiff cause those catless fumes are still giving me a headache lol.

After 20 minutes of running I shut it off and I’m letting it cool off overnight. Going to drain the oil as well and replace it with the break in oil I’m going to be using (liqui moly touring 20w-50 non synthetic). Then ready for the first drive

In general there isn’t much you can do at this point but let it run and sort of work itself out. If you truly fucked something up it will probably make itself known in the first few seconds. It’s either gonna run or it’s not. Thankfully everything was good for me

Good luck!! I’m sure everything will be just fine! And if I missed something feel free to message me. I got a lot of this info from another member here. Wish I could remember his name..

Ok cool, same for me bar the new rods/pistons.

As for the break in procedure for my new cams, my understanding is to run the engine varying the revs from 1k-3k rpms for 15-20minutes, much like you did during your initial start up. I have 15L of Penrite 10 Tenths 15w-40 mineral running in oil to use during both the initial start up and the first ~1,000km - https://www.penriteoil.com.au/produc...15w-40-mineral.

My plan is to run the motor and get everything up to temp while checking for coolant & oil leaks, varying the revs for this initial start up, then shut it down, let it cool off and change the filter & oil. Then it's off for the first drive to begin the process of bedding the rings in the bores. Go load the motor up and drive up some big hills!

Yes, I'll absolutely pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it over to ensure oil gets to every passage and pressure is there. Stupid question; did you do this with the spark plugs in or out?

Tonight and tomorrow I plan on continuing re-assembly. Still have to sort out the wiring harness, reconnect the clutch line and bleed the brakes + clutch, wire in the map sensor, fit front end etc..

For the first start, my brother will be with me to watch and listen for anything untoward. I'm certain we've done everything correct in the bottom and top end. Time will tell haha.

I have borrowed a laptop with INPA, GT1, etc. so I'll use that to prime the pump. I've never used any of these software suites, but I'm sure I'll figure it out.

Hahaha I look forward to smelling those catless fumes in my garage. Don't know about my wife though hahaha!

[Andy2424]

You can also run the fuel pump with inpa a couple times.

that would be great. Especially after a long period of use.

Can you briefly describe how it works in inpa? I almost only use ISTA ...

[SteelGreyM]

You can also run the fuel pump with inpa a couple times.

Ah should’ve done this. Thanks for the reminder. OP do this it’s way easier

[heinzboehmer]

After you’re happy with that you put the fuel pump fuse back in and turn the key a few times to build pressure. I found that I had to turn the key to position 2. Let the fuel pump run. Then take the key out. Lock and unlock the car. Then repeat the process. This made the fuel pump turn on again. Do this a few more times than you think necessary.

You can also run the fuel pump with inpa a couple times.

[SteelGreyM]

Was your motor a completely fresh build? I.e. new rings and bearings etc.? What process did you follow for first start up?

I'll be doing mine next weekend and want to ensure I take every precaution to avoid any mishaps of failures lol.

Yes completely fresh build top to bottom. New pistons, rings, rods. Re-used cams though. So check the break in procedure for your new cams.

In fact I just did my first break in startup today with all the coolant lines, air box, Maf, etc connected etc.

Yesterday for the *very* first start I had no belt on. Only ran it for 20 seconds or so. No air box or coolant. Open header. Just the oil cooler (hung with bungees). Used non synthetic 0w-40 from amazon basics. It felt just wrong lol. But for only 20 minutes the choice of oil isn’t very important. Figured a lighter weight would allow the easiest startup. Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it a bunch. Better be safe than sorry. Get that oil everywhere and try and build any pressure you can. Give the starter a break in between cranks.

After you’re happy with that you put the fuel pump fuse back in and turn the key a few times to build pressure. I found that I had to turn the key to position 2. Let the fuel pump run. Then take the key out. Lock and unlock the car. Then repeat the process. This made the fuel pump turn on again. Do this a few more times than you think necessary.

Make sure you give your starter a break like I mentioned earlier. Just a few minutes.

Then cross your fingers and hope for the best. It will probably take a few tries. It took me about 5 attempts but I think it would have been quicker if I primed the fuel pressure more and gave my starter a break as it started like nothing after I walked away for 5 min and came back. Rough idle (like it had an aggressive cam) for about 10 seconds then it smoothed up perfectly.

Today I had everything hooked up. Coolant lines, power steering, mass airflow sensor,
Etc. basically everything needed for a running car (minus the cosmetic front end). I ran the engine for about 20 minutes varying speed between idle and 3k rpm.

If you have a helper to sit in the car and monitor the dash for lights that’s a huge help. I have a decent scanner as well which was able to check any codes or lights that came up and clear them on the fly. While it’s running for this first 20 minutes make sure you are doing a check over for leaks and any weird noises. Check coolant leaks and oil leaks mainly. You will most likely see smoke coming out from somewhere (wether it be exhaust or header side of engine bay). Don’t be alarmed as it is *most likely* just residual oil burning off. My head gasket blew and got oil all throughout the exhaust and headers so it took about 10 minutes for the smoke to stop coming out of the engine bay. While I saw that I went to the rear of the car and gave it a good whiff. Made sure it all smelled normal. Maybe I gave it too good of a whiff cause those catless fumes are still giving me a headache lol.

After 20 minutes of running I shut it off and I’m letting it cool off overnight. Going to drain the oil as well and replace it with the break in oil I’m going to be using (liqui moly touring 20w-50 non synthetic). Then ready for the first drive

In general there isn’t much you can do at this point but let it run and sort of work itself out. If you truly fucked something up it will probably make itself known in the first few seconds. It’s either gonna run or it’s not. Thankfully everything was good for me

Good luck!! I’m sure everything will be just fine! And if I missed something feel free to message me. I got a lot of this info from another member here. Wish I could remember his name..

[Syfon]

Congrats. Got mine in as well! After a few cranks with fuel pump fuse out she started right up. Within 10 seconds a clean idle came in with no weird sounds. Music to my ears and a massive relief. We both put it in Easter weekend lol!

Was your motor a completely fresh build? I.e. new rings and bearings etc.? What process did you follow for first start up?

I'll be doing mine next weekend and want to ensure I take every precaution to avoid any mishaps of failures lol.

[SteelGreyM]

Congrats. Got mine in as well! After a few cranks with fuel pump fuse out she started right up. Within 10 seconds a clean idle came in with no weird sounds. Music to my ears and a massive relief. We both put it in Easter weekend lol!

[Syfon]

Wow, this is some great progress and very well done, so clean! Also, you have showed that the stock head studs are NOT long enough for the SSV1's which has been talked about recently on the forum, I figured they were long enough as did other members.

I ended up using N54 studs which are almost too long and make lining up the flanges a pain (with engine in car), but great work making your own, I like it.

Do you think you could have done all of this on a 4 post just as easily? I'm sure it's possible, it's just the front bar on a 4 post and less overall width might make things a bit more difficult.

Thank you!

I read somewhere a while back about the stock exhaust studs not being long enough for the SSV1's, however I forgot about this and neglected to buy N54 studs. Either way, the issue has been sorted. On this topic however, I did see a friends e46 m3 over the weekend. His has an SS manifold although I forget which one. No extended studs and his manifold is still attached soooo idk.

Umm I'm unsure tbh. I know a 2 post would made things a breeze; just drop the entire front end with everything attached and install in reverse order.

[Syfon]

The engine block looks great in gold. How did you get so a clean finish, spraying rather than brush painting?

Did you just use masking tape on the top of the block to keep the paint off of it?

I used painters tape to mask up where ever I didn't want paint getting, wiped the block down with a rag and a heap of wax and grease remover then sprayed straight out of the can.

Gave it 3 or 4 light coats from memory. Went every which direction to achieve consistent coverage.

[Cubieman]

So over the Easter weekend I ran into a few issues. One of them being the oe exhaust manifold studs are too short to accommodate the (much) thicker flanges on the SSV1 manifolds. The oe manifold flanges are very thin, therefore the studs protrude a fair distance allowing the copper nuts plenty of thread to bite onto. As everywhere was closed on Easter Friday, I ran to the only fastener supplier open in the entire city on the Saturday to purchase 18 x M7 bolts with the same thread pitch. I modified each of the bolts by cutting the heads off and cleaning up the threads. Screwed into the head and manifolds on, the replacement studs are ~8mm longer than before. The SSV1 manifolds are now secure. I didn't get any close up photos of them on the car, but you can see the studs I made out of bolts.

The rest of Saturday was spent replacing the oe rubber steering shaft guibo with a solid aluminium piece from CPM Auto Engineering, and bolting all remaining accessories to the motor (O2 sensors, idle control valve, throttle actuator, hoses, pipes, air con and serpentine belts, etc.).

By Sunday afternoon the JB Racing Lightweight Aluminum flywheel + Clutchmasters FX100 (sprung hub) clutch & pressure plate were correctly installed and torqued to spec. The transmission was also bolted on along with the starter motor.

Last order of business for Sunday evening was to drain the fuel tank. I opened up the tank from the access points beneath the rear bench seat and siphoned ~40L of stale fuel. The fuel would have been ~20months old. Half the fuel went in my car, the other half in my brothers. No issues there lol.

Come Monday morning, everything was set for the engine and transmission to go in! I utilised the assistance of a good friend and his workshop to obtain a piece of steel 300mm x 30mm x 5mm with holes punched on either end. I attached one end to the lifting point at the back top of the engine block and the chain to the top of this steel plate (you can see it in the pics). Reason for this is I wasn't comfortable lifting the motor from this point and having the chain rest against part of the plastic wiring harness assembly or the fuel/air rail at the back top of the head. This simply created a little more clearance and peace of mind.

The motor and transmission went in without too much of an issue. There was 5 of us haha, so with two of us under the car and the transmission on a trolley jack, plus the other 3 up front moving the motor about on the crane, we managed to get it bolted up to the mounts relatively easily. Tail shaft back in with a new drive flex disc (guibo) and centre support bearing. Underbody heat shield on.

Massive load off my mind knowing the motor/transmission is now in the car!

Yesterday she went for a little exhaust fabrication; mate the SSV1's to my section 1. A little cutting, pipe flaring, welding and it's all done. Exhaust system installed (you can see in the photos the exhaust tips are on the piss, so I'll have those cut off and something bigger to fill the gaps in due course. That's megan racing for you lol).

Next steps are to install Mishimoto electric fan + wire to oe aux fan controller, install entire front end, plug in all sensors/wires/air/fuel/clutch lines etc., bleed brakes and clutch, fill it with fluids, pray to the ///M gods and start her up for the first time!

Likely not doing any work on it over the coming days. Maybe this weekend. I'm on the home straight now, so come the end of April she'll live once again!

Wow, this is some great progress and very well done, so clean! Also, you have showed that the stock head studs are NOT long enough for the SSV1's which has been talked about recently on the forum, I figured they were long enough as did other members.

I ended up using N54 studs which are almost too long and make lining up the flanges a pain (with engine in car), but great work making your own, I like it.

Do you think you could have done all of this on a 4 post just as easily? I'm sure it's possible, it's just the front bar on a 4 post and less overall width might make things a bit more difficult.

[Syfon]

Have you figured out a good way to put the engine and trans in together? The engine is currently on a stand so it will need to come off before I install the clutch of course. I remember pulling it out together was a nightmare... and I didn’t even have the head on.

I am trying to avoid putting the trans on separately but this might be the easiest option in the end.

Oh and for reference my entire front end is off the car.

I don't really think there is a "good way" to be honest. Have a few friends help , make sure the car is up on stands so you can get under it. I used a trolley jack to lift the transmission whilst lowering the motor on the crane so the entire unit would pitch which way we wanted. This made is a little easier to line everything up.

I'm unsure about installing the transmission first; would it not be very difficult to get the transmission input shaft lined up with the motor given the relatively large angle the motor has to come into the bay at?

Hope it goes smoothly for you mate!

[Syfon]

So over the Easter weekend I ran into a few issues. One of them being the oe exhaust manifold studs are too short to accommodate the (much) thicker flanges on the SSV1 manifolds. The oe manifold flanges are very thin, therefore the studs protrude a fair distance allowing the copper nuts plenty of thread to bite onto. As everywhere was closed on Easter Friday, I ran to the only fastener supplier open in the entire city on the Saturday to purchase 18 x M7 bolts with the same thread pitch. I modified each of the bolts by cutting the heads off and cleaning up the threads. Screwed into the head and manifolds on, the replacement studs are ~8mm longer than before. The SSV1 manifolds are now secure. I didn't get any close up photos of them on the car, but you can see the studs I made out of bolts.

The rest of Saturday was spent replacing the oe rubber steering shaft guibo with a solid aluminium piece from CPM Auto Engineering, and bolting all remaining accessories to the motor (O2 sensors, idle control valve, throttle actuator, hoses, pipes, air con and serpentine belts, etc.).

By Sunday afternoon the JB Racing Lightweight Aluminum flywheel + Clutchmasters FX100 (sprung hub) clutch & pressure plate were correctly installed and torqued to spec. The transmission was also bolted on along with the starter motor.

Last order of business for Sunday evening was to drain the fuel tank. I opened up the tank from the access points beneath the rear bench seat and siphoned ~40L of stale fuel. The fuel would have been ~20months old. Half the fuel went in my car, the other half in my brothers. No issues there lol.

Come Monday morning, everything was set for the engine and transmission to go in! I utilised the assistance of a good friend and his workshop to obtain a piece of steel 300mm x 30mm x 5mm with holes punched on either end. I attached one end to the lifting point at the back top of the engine block and the chain to the top of this steel plate (you can see it in the pics). Reason for this is I wasn't comfortable lifting the motor from this point and having the chain rest against part of the plastic wiring harness assembly or the fuel/air rail at the back top of the head. This simply created a little more clearance and peace of mind.

The motor and transmission went in without too much of an issue. There was 5 of us haha, so with two of us under the car and the transmission on a trolley jack, plus the other 3 up front moving the motor about on the crane, we managed to get it bolted up to the mounts relatively easily. Tail shaft back in with a new drive flex disc (guibo) and centre support bearing. Underbody heat shield on.

Massive load off my mind knowing the motor/transmission is now in the car!

Yesterday she went for a little exhaust fabrication; mate the SSV1's to my section 1. A little cutting, pipe flaring, welding and it's all done. Exhaust system installed (you can see in the photos the exhaust tips are on the piss, so I'll have those cut off and something bigger to fill the gaps in due course. That's megan racing for you lol).

Next steps are to install Mishimoto electric fan + wire to oe aux fan controller, install entire front end, plug in all sensors/wires/air/fuel/clutch lines etc., bleed brakes and clutch, fill it with fluids, pray to the ///M gods and start her up for the first time!

Likely not doing any work on it over the coming days. Maybe this weekend. I'm on the home straight now, so come the end of April she'll live once again!

[Syfon]

Quick update - engine and transmission bolted in place! Tailshaft and exhaust system also on. Was a very very long 4 days this past easter weekend.

Will update with photos and answer any queries in the next day or two!

[ac427]

The engine block looks great in gold. How did you get so a clean finish, spraying rather than brush painting?

Did you just use masking tape on the top of the block to keep the paint off of it?