Tuned! 332whp! My Engine Build - Cams, Airbox, LTW Flyhweel & more :)

[STAATS]

Exciting! Did you drop it in yet?

I am about to complete mine and am looking to drop it in on Sunday

Plan for tomorrow is

-Install oil pan
-Bolt up last accessories (alternator, PS pump, throttle body motor thing)
-Install Clutch and Trans
-Clean up garage and prep all tools for install.

I also picked up a ZHP rack. Will have to install that before the engine goes in.

Have you figured out a good way to put the engine and trans in together? The engine is currently on a stand so it will need to come off before I install the clutch of course. I remember pulling it out together was a nightmare... and I didn’t even have the head on.

I am trying to avoid putting the trans on separately but this might be the easiest option in the end.

Oh and for reference my entire front end is off the car.

I installed my gearbox before installing everything on the car. I have a levelling bar on the engine crane holding the crane and just came in at an angle and levelled out as I dropped in and found it when in together with the engine just as easily as it came out. Having the levelling var for that extra adjustment to the engine crane as you go in and out I feel gave me a lot of control. may have been harder without it so if you're not using one of them I would recommend it.

[SteelGreyM]

Exciting! Did you drop it in yet?

I am about to complete mine and am looking to drop it in on Sunday

Plan for tomorrow is

-Install oil pan
-Bolt up last accessories (alternator, PS pump, throttle body motor thing)
-Install Clutch and Trans
-Clean up garage and prep all tools for install.

I also picked up a ZHP rack. Will have to install that before the engine goes in.

Have you figured out a good way to put the engine and trans in together? The engine is currently on a stand so it will need to come off before I install the clutch of course. I remember pulling it out together was a nightmare... and I didn’t even have the head on.

I am trying to avoid putting the trans on separately but this might be the easiest option in the end.

Oh and for reference my entire front end is off the car.

[stash1]

Looks great man...and that gold paint looks oddly familiar!

[Thoglan]

Engine and headers look absolutely mint! Just finished my motor rebuild last week, first start tomorrow all going well. Mine doesn't look nearly as clean as yours, even after the rebuild (I didn't even paint the block oops). Dropping the motor back in for the first time in forever is a very exciting process, congrats and good luck.

[Syfon]

Time for a small update!

Received my Suspersprint Stepped V1 headers back from ceramic coating a few days ago. I took some measurements of both the SS & Euro spec manifolds; ID's, Euro spec OD's, step OD (on the SS) & collectors. All measurements are in millimeters.

SSV1 ID

• #1 - 38.05
• #2 - 37.90
• #3 - 38.12
• #4 - 37.80
• #5 - 37.70
• #6 - 38.00

SSV1 Step OD

• #1 - 44.50
• #2 - 44.48
• #3 - 44.55
• #4 - 44.83
• #5 - 44.73
• #6 - 44.75

SSV1 Collectors

• #1 to 3 - 90.40
• #3 to 6 - 91.20

Euro Spec ID

• #1 - 35.50
• #2 - 35.60
• #3 - 35.40
• #4 - 35.50
• #5 - 35.50
• #6 - 35.46

Euro Spec OD

• #1 - 39.80
• #2 - 39.92
• #3 - 39.88
• #4 - 39.93
• #5 - 39.92
• #6 - 39.91

Euro Spec Collectors

• #1 to 3 - 83.20
• #3 to 6 - 83.30

It's quite interesting comparing the pipe id's & od's. The SSV1 is definitely a lot larger across the board! I didn't get the chance the measure the individual pipe lengths; will see if I can find the time this weekend to do that. Pics of the manifolds for those interested.

Received a few other new parts in the meantime; miscellaneous bolts, oil level sensor, oil pressure switch etc..

Engine & transmission going in during the upcoming easter long weekend. Come 6 April, it will be time to start her for the first time after having the last piece of the puzzle completed (exhaust work to have the SSV1's fit my section 1). Can't wait to hear it fire up and finally drive her after almost 2 years!

[jbfrancis3]

That is one clean engine, beautiful!

[Cubieman]

Impressive.

[0-60motorsports]

So the motor is complete (almost lol). Waiting on a few misc bolts, heater box hoses & replacement pre-cat o2 sensors.

Purchased a Supersprint V1 Stepped manifold. Went for ceramic coating last week. Interesting seeing the OE euro (coated) manifold next to SS V1's; the SS are quite a different design and much wider. I'm sure once I do a bespoke tune, they will add to the overall HP gain, but I'm really interested to know how they will change the engine tone/note. Time will tell!

The aim is for everything to be in the car weekend after next.

Still waiting for my replacement airbox from Haimus (a.k.a. Streamline). Should have gone with a Karb from the get-go. Oh well.

Nice work. Looks great.

[Syfon]

So the motor is complete (almost lol). Waiting on a few misc bolts, heater box hoses & replacement pre-cat o2 sensors.

Purchased a Supersprint V1 Stepped manifold. Went for ceramic coating last week. Interesting seeing the OE euro (coated) manifold next to SS V1's; the SS are quite a different design and much wider. I'm sure once I do a bespoke tune, they will add to the overall HP gain, but I'm really interested to know how they will change the engine tone/note. Time will tell!

The aim is for everything to be in the car weekend after next.

Still waiting for my replacement airbox from Haimus (a.k.a. Streamline). Should have gone with a Karb from the get-go. Oh well.

[Syfon]

Cost cutting on later model is my guess. This means later model VANOS responds slower than the early ones. Or, they found the radial roller bearings need more lubricate oil and so redesigned to have 100% oil to the bearings.

Interesting. I'm going to do some more research on this subject. Really keen to find out exactly why they changed the design

[Syfon]

Yeah, that's the right way. I read that you were having trouble at this step, but it's fairly simple by just turn the hub full CW (viewed at front), then insert the spline shaft in the hub -- and if needed, turn the shaft CCW not more than 1 tooth to get the shaft in. With the shaft in about 5mm (do not insert in fully in), torque 2 opposing bolts to spec then back out 1/4 turns. That's all.

This step is for having the hub with a maximum slot travel when the VANOS later pushing on the shaft and rotating the hub CCW by overcome the friction holding by those 2 bolts (pretension bolts).

This is exactly what I did. It just took me a little while to figure it out.

[sapote]

If that's the case, why did later model S54 cams have a blanking plate? Wouldn't that mean the oil would force the oil back toward the vanos pistons instead? I'm interested to learn more about this

Cost cutting on later model is my guess. This means later model VANOS responds slower than the early ones. Or, they found the radial roller bearings need more lubricate oil and so redesigned to have 100% oil to the bearings.

[sapote]

Well, given the engine is on a stand, torqueing the head bolts was straight forward although holding the motor on the stand while torqueing was a challenge lol

With both hands on the breaker bar to torque the bolt on the last step, I had no strength to keep the socket from jumping off the bolt, so I had to use the rope.

[sapote]

No, I installed the splined shafts in the hubs first to pretension the hub bolts then the vanos went on.

Yeah, that's the right way. I read that you were having trouble at this step, but it's fairly simple by just turn the hub full CW (viewed at front), then insert the spline shaft in the hub -- and if needed, turn the shaft CCW not more than 1 tooth to get the shaft in. With the shaft in about 5mm (do not insert in fully in), torque 2 opposing bolts to spec then back out 1/4 turns. That's all.

This step is for having the hub with a maximum slot travel when the VANOS later pushing on the shaft and rotating the hub CCW by overcome the friction holding by those 2 bolts (pretension bolts).

[Syfon]

These cylinder bores were coated/treated with hard material. I would not hone/scuff the original valuable honed lines if they are in such good condition. Modern engines have the new machined sharp peak honed lines polished to a plateau before assemble. In the old days the new sharp peak honed lines required break-in and this process worn down the sharp corners of the rings, no good.

When I removed the head, the cross-hatch pattern was perfectly visible in all bores. I lightly honed/scuffed the bores upon advice from several different people down under, including some who have built high-performance s54's in the past.

Nevertheless, interesting to learn about this!