Everything about Fat Cat Motorsport Suspension

[bigjae46]

I was told your current set up was well over $5,000+. Too rich for my blood.

That’s relatively cheap when you consider the cost to setup the suspension.

Track fees, fuel, tires, brakes, wear and tear, etc.


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[BigDave]

I did the flat ride calculation a while back. I was told by it to run 450lbs in front, so I bought front Swift springs close to that in metric. They bottom out occasionally on speed bumps taken at slow speeds.(porky cabrio) I have some 550 TCK front springs I will try.

[BigDave]

I used H&R coilovers as my base point. They're non adjustable shocks, with FCM prefers (for durability, and not screwing it up), ride height adjustable, and work with a variety of springs. My only complaint with using the H&Rs as a starting point is that they're pretty heavy (especially compared to the Ohlins I had before).

I am currently running GC street camber plates. I think the TMS hybrids are better camber plates, but they were back ordered for months when I was putting the FCM setup together, so it wasn't an option. I will switch back to them in the future.

I do run PS4Ss for my street tire, in 245/40-18 and 275/35-18. Sounds like your setup is one profile size too large, currently.

I don't really monitor tire temps/pressures on the street. I run 34psi cold, but my car is 10% lighter than stock. If my car was stock weight, I'd run 35-36psi on the street. On a vert, I'd probably run 36-37psi cold (on the M5 I run 38psi cold, and my M5 is ~vert weight). On track (not on PS4Ss), I start out at ~27psi cold, and adjust pressures after each session based on what the Michelin app tells me to do (I run Michelin tire temp/pressure sensors).

IIRC the H&R coilovers were ~$1500, and then I spent ~$5000 for the FCM services on the shocks. That said, I got every optional extra they offer, so you can get in a starter FCM setup for less (~$3000 was the starting point IIRC).

I run way less camber than most people, street and track, because my ride height is higher than most people-- so I have a way more functional camber curve.

Thanks for the reply O. You should open up a consulting business. People would pay! We do appreciate you sharing your vast knowledge on the forum.
I was told your current set up was well over $5,000+. Too rich for my blood.

Did you sell your Ohlins set up? I always liked that idea for my car. Doug at Turner said they make the Hybrid plates in batches with months in-between batches.

I am right at that 36-37 cold with my PS-4's. I personally think it gives me the best results. Good.

My car is ALSO higher than the "standard" drop for our cars. I used to sustain too much damage to expensive splitters from unavoidable road debris, truck re treads, express lane hard plastic bases from dislodged dividers. I can sail right over that now. My car is still a lot lower than stock, but 100 times more practical. I daily drive it.

For 19" wheels a 265mm tire is actually a better match diameter wise. Thats what I have now. In 30 days, my new 275/35-19s go on. I got too good a deal on them. I think they will be OK. Not ideal, but OK.

Sometimes I run my 18" x 9.5" SQUARE 265/35-18 set up in the street(PS4's). They tramline a bit, so I prefer the staggered 19's mostly. They do pretty well for being 19". On the track I only run 18" wheels.

[BigDave]

I would not be using that TCK kit for a track car doing 130mph+. Those are budget twin tube dampers that are probably turning the oil into foam during those high frequency inputs, causing a loss of control. You want gas pressurized monotubes or Ohlins TTX.

I have not tracked the car since I installed them. I had no idea how inferior they were construction wise. I know from using them, I don't trust them. I dont feel stable when I push the car. Live and learn.
I want to go back to Seibring. I am leaning towards Obiobans old set up. I believe he had Ohlins and Turner Hybrid caster/camber plates

[bigjae46]

I used the flat ride calculator spreadsheet to get the cross weights so it wasn’t a big deal.

What do you consider “big stuff”? I’m starting to consider cutting weight. Hitting 3k would be nice, just want to maintain comfort like you stated.

I’m probably not the right person to ask. Obioban posted. I think he’ll be closer to what you’re looking for.

Let’s talk when you’re ready to start slicing up sheet metal.


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[Cronenberged]

^ that

[Obioban]

I used the flat ride calculator spreadsheet to get the cross weights so it wasn’t a big deal.

What do you consider “big stuff”? I’m starting to consider cutting weight. Hitting 3k would be nice, just want to maintain comfort like you stated.

You really just need to consider it in everything you do. E.g. the Sportsters should be a non starter-- and, really, you should be looking at fixed back seats (which don't have to compromise comfort, so long as you get ones appropriately sized to you). I don't know what wheels you're running, but they should be under 20 lbs. There's almost 50 lbs to be had in stereo/wiring removal, while still retaining a functional setup. Battery is an easy 45+ lbs if you get a lithium one. A non OE CSL trunk can save weight. An OE CSL bumper can save weight. Pain free losses: tool kit, air pump, fix a flat, rear center seat belts, LATCH mounts, rear deck child seat tethers.

Mostly though-- every time you contemplate any project/mod, make weight a primary consideration in your choices.

[duracellttu]

Why didn’t they calculate the cross weights?

I think you can get down to 3000lbs just by taking big stuff out and will still be daily drivable.

To get below 3k you have to be willing to sacrifice. Then you need to start slicing up the car to get below 2750.


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I used the flat ride calculator spreadsheet to get the cross weights so it wasn’t a big deal.

What do you consider “big stuff”? I’m starting to consider cutting weight. Hitting 3k would be nice, just want to maintain comfort like you stated.

[bigjae46]

Thanks for sharing. Im struggling to figure out why my corner weights are so high. I have a ZCP model with manual stock seats, CSL airbox, and CF roof for weight savings. I have the front and rear Mason Bars which add some weight. These corners weights were measured with 5/8 tank of gas so not really that much difference.

Why didn’t they calculate the cross weights?

I think you can get down to 3000lbs just by taking big stuff out and will still be daily drivable.

To get below 3k you have to be willing to sacrifice. Then you need to start slicing up the car to get below 2750.


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[usdmej]

I’m planning to do Recaro CS seat this summer but assume that is a wash weight wise compared to my current manual seats.

you're looking at ~10 pounds weight savings per side assuming BK and OE hardware

closer to ~20 pounds weight savings per side if you go with the Sparco SPX (pricy, but probably the best reclining seat on the market at the moment)

[Obioban]

This is really helpful. Thank you!

I’m planning to do Recaro CS seat this summer but assume that is a wash weight wise compared to my current manual seats.

Yeah, the CSs aren't that light once you get them mounted up/installed.

[duracellttu]

Manual seats are only 2 lbs lighter than power seals. CF roof is only 4-8 lbs lighter than a steel slicktop. CSL airbox is
... which jibes-- your corner weights are pretty close to stock.

I try to weight random cars that show up at my house. Your car is pretty in line with where it should be.

Everything adjusted to a half tank, no driver:

This is really helpful. Thank you!

I’m planning to do Recaro CS seat this summer but assume that is a wash weight wise compared to my current manual seats.

[Obioban]

Thanks for sharing. Im struggling to figure out why my corner weights are so high. I have a ZCP model with manual stock seats, CSL airbox, and CF roof for weight savings. I have the front and rear Mason Bars which add some weight. These corners weights were measured with 5/8 tank of gas so not really that much difference.

Manual seats are only 2 lbs lighter than power seals. CF roof is only 4-8 lbs lighter than a steel slicktop. CSL airbox is <10 lbs lighter than stock airbox. Combined, you're less than 20 lbs off stock, minus what you've added back in with the mason bars.

... which jibes-- your corner weights are pretty close to stock.

I try to weight random cars that show up at my house. Your car is pretty in line with where it should be.

Everything adjusted to a half tank, no driver:

[Cronenberged]

That weight is fairly normal for a non stripped down car. Do you have original wiring, interior, glass, and material aside from roof and trunk? duracellttu

[cobra]

I have TCK single adjustable front and rear. I am VERY disappointed. They dont stabilize the car well after 130MPH.

Great suspension should stabile our E46 M3 on rippled pavement even at 175mph. My custom Penske four way adjustable rear shock was MAGIC on my Honda Blackbird motorcycle at 180MPH. Unbelievable stability when high speed/low speed dampening was tuned properly. Once I tuned the shock, I never had to change it for any different type of pavement. Did perfect on the track AND the street!

I want that type ultra high speed stability and versatility for my M3!!!

I would not be using that TCK kit for a track car doing 130mph+. Those are budget twin tube dampers that are probably turning the oil into foam during those high frequency inputs, causing a loss of control. You want gas pressurized monotubes or Ohlins TTX.