How to extract mangled manifold stud?

[sapote]

So.....I broke it, basically flush. Is this an engine out situation?

Sorry to hear this bad news. I was late to this thread otherwise to would suggest to use a medium hammer tapping on the stud head into the head. Patient and time will loosen the threads before trying to wrench it out.

Time to get the cylinder head out and work safely outside. If the broken stud still protrudes a little, then use a dremo to cut a slot for screwdriver but use an impact driver and hammer it to turn CCW.

Currently I'm in the similar work: The earthquake in Socal couple weeks ago knocked my water heater tank enough to crack a rusty cold water 3/4 NPT galvanized pipe threaded to the tank. There is not much for the pipe wrench to grab on the crushed pipe now, so I am cutting a line inside the short pipe and then fold the cut pipe inward to release its threads from the tank female threads. This is like a prisoner cutting the jail bar.

[sapote]

Has it been soaking in penetrant? You can try heat too. Maybe drill a hole, perpendicularly, that's half the diameter of the stud and slot an icepick or punch and use that to turn it CC? Hole would need to be large enough to accommodate a piece of metal rod (or icepick or punch) that's not so thin that you just end up bending it.

Its worn shaft is too small for this method.

[Phoenix///M3]

Ouch, if you attempt to drill it use a good cobalt bit (Dewalt, Bosch). Cobalt goes through anything like butter. Might be able to be done with a right angle drill but I would vote against that. I would consult a good machine shop and get some advice.

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[FoxFivePointOh]

Don't screw around with it at this point. Pull the engine and weld a nut to the stud. If you attempt to drill it out with the engine in the car, there is a good chance you will end up drilling in at an angle. I messed up a head on a different car that way.

Drilling should be your last resort.

[heinzboehmer]

You might also have enough space to get a right angle drill in there. Get some left hand drill bits too

[eacmen]

So.....I broke it, basically flush. Is this an engine out situation?

You might be able to raise it up enough to get a drill on it without fully removing it.


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[Cubieman]

So.....I broke it, basically flush. Is this an engine out situation?

[Phoenix///M3]

That extractor should work. Also Kroil > PB Blaster by miles.

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[Flat-Six]

Common on 911 exhaust manifold studs, been there many times. Heat (Map) with stud extractor. I've also welded a a nut and tool to the stud. Start with heat and extractor. All as stated above....

[Zack]

A method I have used to great success is to Weld a nut to the stud, this heats the stud up helping to release it. Then simply wrench it out.

[Cubieman]

i've used this extractor on previous header jobs with a 100% success rate - it will bite down on the stud harder than any vice grip will. If it's really stubborn then adding some heat to the mix should help.

I bought one of those today, the one I found locally is huge and I don't think it will fit, but hopefully I can find something that will. I really don't want to have to pull the engine for a drill/tap, I can't imagine getting that done correctly with the engine in. Just so bummed currently about this.

[gabylonfive]

i've used this extractor on previous header jobs with a 100% success rate - it will bite down on the stud harder than any vice grip will. If it's really stubborn then adding some heat to the mix should help.

[WOLFN8TR]

Map gas gets hotter than propane. Ya heat around the stud as much as possible, it doesn’t need to be red hot. Like I said before use some PB Blaster and soak it overnight. That stuff works great, I used it to remove a seized glow plug in my Diesel engine block.

[eacmen]

How much heat would I want to apply? MAP gas is the best I've got as far as BTU's. I am not trying to get this thing red hot am I? Also I imagine the best place to heat would be around the area where the stud meets the block, is this correct?
I found an independent enigne builder today and he said that he would heat it up then melt candle wax into the threads, turn it clockwise, then counterclockwise.

MAPP gas probably a good 40 seconds or so around the manifold and base of the stud. Keep the torch moving, don't keep it in one place.

With mapp it won't get it red hot like a real oxy torch.

Be careful as some penetrants are flammable.


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[Cubieman]

Ya soak it with some PB Blaster over night. I would heat the area around it before trying to remove it. I’ve used these Craftsman extractors in situations like this with success. I would trim 1/4” off the tip with a deemed first.

How much heat would I want to apply? MAP gas is the best I've got as far as BTU's. I am not trying to get this thing red hot am I? Also I imagine the best place to heat would be around the area where the stud meets the block, is this correct?
I found an independent enigne builder today and he said that he would heat it up then melt candle wax into the threads, turn it clockwise, then counterclockwise.