Engine Build Complete!

[cbean]

AH MAY ZING!

Very cool, project completed.

[F1Dryvr]

Happy Reading:

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/member-build-journals/66450-s54-engine-build-diary

Posted the diary with pics.

[Da Jemster]

Hats off to you!

[F1Dryvr]

Leakdown numbers on hot engine after break in were 1-6: 4 6 8 5 5 4. Not terrible, not race engine shop numbers. Langs website claimes 2-3% on all cylinders. I was led to believe that after my dyno runs that more ring seal could come in the next 100 miles and doing lots of engine braking, but other articles ive read suggest ring seal is done after the initial hard pulls to max power. Cylinder 3 worries me a bit, and i definitely heard a hiss from the tailpipe with that one....it is a fully rebuilt stage 3 head with new valves seats and seals. Any ideas?

[F1Dryvr]

Yeah for sure. Some of the engine shops were doing a lot of the sizing/measuring work in the morning for the lower temperature

[robgill]

Congrats!! Love seeing more S54 builds on here, looking forward to your full writeup. Smart move on the indoor build. Lesson learned from one of my early builds was temperature also makes a huge difference in the tolerances. I built one over the cold winter in my garage and regretted it...

[F1Dryvr]

If u guys saw how much salt is in the air driving down a1a on east coast Florida and how much stuff gets rusty.... I put a padlock on my trailer hitch and it was solid rust in about 3 weeks. You would have done it inside too!!! Wives and space permitting of course!

[F1Dryvr]

Well there’s only so much u can do at a home build diy setup. Pick your battles, and things u want to spend money on. Certainly a front engine supporting stand might help. There was even a recommendation to torque plate the block while setting ring gaps. The list goes on...

when I sent my bore gauge down (while on the stand) most measurements across all cylinders were .0002 or less and the majority were dead on 0.0000 for 87.25mm. Kudos to the random machine shop I decided on. Point is With those results I’m not sure the value of the expensive stand...

[Casa de Mesa]

Holy crap. I've done some very "car forward" stuff that others would likely have little to no tolerance for, but this is a new level of commitment. Engine build in the bedroom, LOL!! You are my new hero

[digger]

The bolts is the the concern, but the structure of the long block/head and the bolts mounting points (I think the ovality or roundness of the #6 and #5 cylinder walls changed quite a bit when the fully dressed up engine was on the stand).

Lol Seriously?

[sapote]

True, but the bolts are high tensile. They won't snap.

The bolts is the the concern, but the structure of the long block/head and the bolts mounting points (I think the ovality or roundness of the #6 and #5 cylinder walls changed quite a bit when the fully dressed up engine was on the stand).

[Syfon]

I know 4 bolts, but the cantilever stress is very much on the top 2 bolts located on the block 2 top points.

True, but the bolts are high tensile. They won't snap.

[F1Dryvr]

Nice job!

thanks! It’s been an adventure!

[Tbonem3]

Nice job!

[sapote]

there’s some stands to purchase I’m sure that supports the other side somehow... when creating a budget for something like this it was 49$ vs 5 or 600 for the more advanced stands... not sure the value is in there for that unless u plan on building lots of engines. Are u concerned the load alters the block/cylinders/mainline somehow?

Yes.

when u think about the hoist points it’s not a matter of strength as the whole 7/800 lb engine and trans is supported by 3 m4 bolts at the front!!!

The engine hoist has 2 hooked points: front and rear of the engine block and this places less stress on block lengthwise. The tranny is much lighter and mounted to the block at many points with many bolts.