SPAL Fan Wiring (Basic Wiring Assistance)

[duracellttu]

I agree %100. Since they sell a wiring kit (Spal) with the fan as part of an option, I was simply operating under the assumption that their (Spal) temp sensors would fit properly. Instead I was supplied with an non-spal sensor that is complicating the install. The question is whether I want to remove the radiator, empty it to the best of my ability wrap it, ship it back, wait for the existing bung to be modified or changed, wait for it to ship back. Reinstall it (not that bad) is and refill the system. I am trying to figure out if that is something I want to do you know? The current bung was certainly designed for the existing sender. I don’t know man., it’s a hard choice.


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Trust me, I totally hear you. My recommendation is to take the extra time to do it properly and send back the radiator. The other benefit is that you have a SPAL sensor that is readily available and comes in two different trigger temperature options. In the long run you will be happier that it was done right.

[Fresh1179]

It’s a little late for you, but I’m the past when I have contacted Zionsville, they’d told me they could weld in a bung with the SPAL threading. If I recall correctly the thread pitch on the SPAL sensor is 3/8” NPT, but double check that.

It would be a much cleaner install if you just drained and removed the radiator to get the proper bung welded in.

I agree %100. Since they sell a wiring kit (Spal) with the fan as part of an option, I was simply operating under the assumption that their (Spal) temp sensors would fit properly. Instead I was supplied with an non-spal sensor that is complicating the install. The question is whether I want to remove the radiator, empty it to the best of my ability wrap it, ship it back, wait for the existing bung to be modified or changed, wait for it to ship back. Reinstall it (not that bad) is and refill the system. I am trying to figure out if that is something I want to do you know? The current bung was certainly designed for the existing sender. I don’t know man., it’s a hard choice.


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[duracellttu]

It’s a little late for you, but I’m the past when I have contacted Zionsville, they’d told me they could weld in a bung with the SPAL threading. If I recall correctly the thread pitch on the SPAL sensor is 3/8” NPT, but double check that.

It would be a much cleaner install if you just drained and removed the radiator to get the proper bung welded in.

[Fresh1179]

I agree. I wish I just had the normal sender that SPAL makes, I even purchased one but it did not fit the threading of my radiator (Zionsville) so I could not use it. It was the correct size, but the non-threaded portion was too thick to enter the radiator if that makes sense. The probe that was supplied with my radiator has a thinner probe section w/ correct threading. The pigtail with the green wires was supplied with the unit so I am hoping that it works as intended. My only thought is that they maybe used it for double fans where multiple relays are required. Regardless, anything that complicates wiring for me, as you can probably tell, is not a good thing.

It does appear that I did not wire the yellow and red correctly. The damn wires have “fan positive” on the yellow and “12 VDC” on the yellow. I am 99% certain on that. Regardless, I ordered another relay that I will “dry fit” to make sure everything has is going to work per the suggestions and let y’all know. I appreciate the help.


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[duracellttu]

To ensure your SPAL relay is wired correctly, removed the grey wire from the sensor and connect it to ground, then start the engine (not position 1 or 2 with the key, turn the engine over). The fan should turn on immediately. If it doesn’t, check the relay wiring again.

The grey SPAL relay trigger is ground activated, which means not all temps sensors will work with it. For example, the OEM temp sensor can’t be used to trigger the SPAL relay. This is why SPAL recommends using their temps sensor. The only problem with using the SPAL temp sensor is that the size/threading doesn’t fit most radiator or radiator hose bungs. For this reason, lots of members will remove the AUX fan and splice into the AUX fan relay to power the SPAL fan.

[bigjae46]

Some switches ground through the body of the switch assuming it screws into a bung that is a common ground.

I’d guess the switch you have would have one lead that you connect to ground and the other that goes to your relay. You can confirm with a multimeter.

There is no point in having a multi-output switch. It’s not resistance based like a temp sender.


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[WOLFN8TR]

It looks like you reversed the Yellow and Red connections from the Relay. The wiring diagram shows the following.

Relay RED: To Red Fan Wire
Relay Yellow: To + Post Engine Bay (Fused)
Orange: To Ignition Wire

On the wiring diagram it shows one "Grey" wire that goes to the temp sensor, which looks like it's a single wire sensor with a lug connection. What's up with the sensor with two Green wires? Once you correct the wiring connections above see if the fan comes ON if not switch the Grey wire to the other Green wire.

[Fresh1179]

Alright. So I am confounded.

I replaced my entire cooling system.

Fan: I simply cannot get the fan to turn on. I checked that the fan functions by just connecting the positive and negative to a spare battery. Currently, I have the 12 Volt Power (Red) attached to the 12 volt on the relay with a 30 amp fuse. The fuse is seated and not blown. The negative on the fan is connected to the black lug in the "drug bin". The power coming from the fan is connected to the the yellow on the relay. The ignition is wired to the the wire located in the pictures above. The grey sending unit is connected to the the green wire (I have tried both wires). The fan will not power on.

[Fresh1179]

Anybody on the above?


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[Fresh1179]

Quick question. My temp sender has two wires marked 0 and 1. I am assuming that these are two separate wires for the fan switch, and a secondary for data logging. Any thoughts? I’m trying to button everything up before filling everything back up.



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[Kcalhoun27]

This isnt what youre asking specifically, but i wired mine directly to the aux fan and then removed the factory mech and aux fans. Ive never had an issue with it. I do not track my car and i live in delaware where it isnt particularly hot. But this solution has worked for me

[bigjae46]

The sensor is the Negative trigger for the fan.

The Ignition wire powers the relay initially. When the sensor calls for cooling the negative trigger is activated and power flows thru the relay from the direct battery connection to the fan.

In your opinion where does the ignition wire go?

On other note.

85 and 86 power the coil. So that needs a power and ground.

30 and 87/87a are a contact. So 30 completes a circuit with 87 when the coil is powered and then completes a circuit with 87a when the coil is not powered.

The only +12 that gets fed into the relay is 85 or 86 which should be fused.

Then the other lead on the coil (85 or 86) is to ground. On the coil ground, you can wire a switch, sensor or some other control module.


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[Casa de Mesa]

The sensor is the Negative trigger for the fan.

The Ignition wire powers the relay initially. When the sensor calls for cooling the negative trigger is activated and power flows thru the relay from the direct battery connection to the fan.

In your opinion where does the ignition wire go?

Is this drawing to scale? 😁

Wise ass comments aside, this is super helpful. Appreciate you posting this for the OP and others.

[bigjae46]

Connect 30 to ground and 87 to the negative lead on the fan. Connect fan to +12v.

When the ignition switches on, the relay closes and provides a ground to the fan and it will run. Remember DC flows from negative to positive.

This is different from wiring a car stereo system...your diagram is how you would typically wire control circuits to turn on components.


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[WOLFN8TR]

The sensor is the Negative trigger for the fan.

The Ignition wire powers the relay initially. When the sensor calls for cooling the negative trigger is activated and power flows thru the relay from the direct battery connection to the fan.

In your opinion where does the ignition wire go?